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I am totally unable to get either of the screws on the rear master cylinder protector cover loose. This is so strange to me as I have had an easy go of taking off the swingarm and shock. I have tried an impact screwdriver as well. No luck, these things dont budge. At this point, both screws are pretty buggered up. Can someone please advise me on the best way to handle this?

Thank you very much,

D.

Have you tried heat?

I mean as in a propane or mapp gas torch

My impact screwdriver came with a few bits

There's one that is a big and sharp philips head that usually works well

Or if it is really buggered you could try cutting a slot in it with a rotary tool

I got a set of thsoe craftsman bolt removers. Haven't had them not work yet.

all they seem to do is take more material off making it even more impossible

Make sure you are preloading your impact screwdriver before you whack it with a hammer

Mr. Wibbens wrote:all they seem to do is take more material off making it even more impossible

If I can tell that it might do that, I grab the impact. Even on small bolts.

Try hitting the head of the bolt good and hard with a hammer and punch before trying the impact driver again. Make sure you support the part so nothing moves.

Mr. Wibbens wrote:Make sure you are preloading your impact screwdriver before you whack it with a hammer

Wibs, perhaps I am not using the impact screwdriver properly. What do you mean by preloading the screwdriver?

It may be too late anyway. The head of the screw is pretty bad now. Pretty rounded out. I may need to grind a slot into the head and try and use a flat screwdriver.

I had less trouble with the swingarm and rocker arm. Kind of wierd that these two little screws are giving me so much trouble.

Thanks again for the help,

David

If you have to, you can grind the heads off, remove the guard, and then try to remove what remains with a pair of vice grips. Last resort kind of maneuver, but it will usually do the trick.

Wasting your time if you don't use heat, Worst case spot weld an old driver to the screw, the heat alone will make removal a cake walk.

Fatherof2 wrote:

Mr. Wibbens wrote:Make sure you are preloading your impact screwdriver before you whack it with a hammer

Wibs, perhaps I am not using the impact screwdriver properly. What do you mean by preloading the screwdriver?

It may be too late anyway. The head of the screw is pretty bad now. Pretty rounded out. I may need to grind a slot into the head and try and use a flat screwdriver.

I had less trouble with the swingarm and rocker arm. Kind of wierd that these two little screws are giving me so much trouble.

Thanks again for the help,

David

I find that it helps a lot if you hold the driver with pressure in the direction you want the screw to go before you hit it, otherwise it never seems to work very well

If there is anything left of the screw you can use a screwdriver dipped in valve grinding compound (or Comet in a pinch).

If it's too late for that then grind a slot in the head with a Dremel tool and use a flat tipped screw driver.

As a last resort you can drill the heads off with a #30 (or even a #21) drill bit. Drill only a little and then pop the head off by rocking the drill bit (if your experienced) or using a punch that's the same size.

As mentioned, if there is any bite left, heat up the area if possible. Pop the bolt real good with a punch, then do what wibby said. Preload, and pop and turn. If all else fails, notch. If that doesnt work, can you weld? Weld a nut on it with a extractor rod. Use that to turn it out. If that isnt an option, you can snap the head off, and then drill it out and use an easyout.

Just don't use those cheap ass HF bolt extractors DAMHIK

Definitely never use a cheap easy-out...Learned that the hard way! Too soft to work, too hard to remove once snapped off.

Thanks guys.

I guess I am going to pick up a propane torch and a grinder.

Does anybody know if a cheap HF grinder will work for gringing a slot into the head of the bolt?

Thanks again,

D.

From where you are right now:

1) spray it with some good penetrate, PB Blaster, etc.

2) Use a dremel, or even a hack saw blade to make the slot (you mentioned a cheap HF grinder. Sure, one will work, but the bit is important. You want a good surface area for the slotted screwdriver bit to be able to gain purchase on for torque w/o slipping off. A grinding type head won't make such a good, thin slot as a rotary-type tool like a Dremel does with a cut-off wheel).

3) Heat it with a propane torch. Take care to protect anything that reacts badly to heat around it

4) If it fails to come off, buy a good quality easy out or bolt/screw remover. I have two Craftsman types that have never failed me. Drill it out with the appropriate bit, tap the easy out into place, and use a tap wrench to turn it.

5) if you reach this point with no success it is a place I've only been a couple of times and it was before I had the Craftsman easy outs. In those cases, I drilled significantly deeper until I had drilled through the entire bolt. I stepped up bits until I was right at the limit of the threads and used a tap & die set to re-cut the threads.

6) The weld on bit trick sounds useful, but I've never had to do that.

7) If you are still unsuccessful at this point, I'd suggest getting someone else to help. But I bet you'll succeed.

You don't want a grinder

http://www.harborfreight.com/80-piece-r ... 97626.html

Fatherof2 wrote:Thanks guys.

I guess I am going to pick up a propane torch and a grinder.

Does anybody know if a cheap HF grinder will work for gringing a slot into the head of the bolt?

Thanks again,

D.

Definitely get a torch. Heat will quickly become your favorite tool for sticky bolts and such. That rotary tool that Wibs posted will do the job for you better than a grinder. Those cut-off wheels are great for making slots.