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Also another question I have small kinda orange/brown electrical part says: Stanley SU223S 12V on the end. Has a white number on side: 7723B01 has angled mounting plate and a Male Spade connector molded into one end. Size is 1.25" wide, 5/16" high, 5/8" deep (not including bracket )

OK I think I misread one of your comments. So you have three lighting coils and one exciter coil. I think it would be best to put them in series while alternating the direction that you wrap the coils. Float the ground if your R/R will allow it and tie your wire coming off the coils into the three yellow wires on the R/R. Don't go by length of the wire, just wrap as much as you can fit and call it good. I plan on doing this with a6 pole stator for my ATK as soon as I can get ahold of a bosh stator.


I think that is your original regulator. And try using photobucket instead.

Okay lets see if images will load now!
One is original Stator, second is 650 Suzuki wiring diagram and third is 650 stator / Regulator-Rectifier wiring
Okay Charging/lighting coil is shown (2 wraps - ground 1 wrap 40' soldered to yellow lead AND 2nd coil. @nd coil you see on top is only using part of available area. Again it connects to yellow lead and 1st coil wrapped 23' and ends with white/read stripe lead.

What I plan on doing is as shown in last diagram, like Suzuki 650. Tie all 3 coils together at one end (float it - Make it easy to ground if I need too ) then layer 3 coils as close to 40-50' as I can and connecting each to a yellow lead. (I will use yellow, white/red stripe and add a yellow red stripe as this is what Is there and easy to add) Then I will wire rectifier/regulator as shown in wiring diagram)
They are showing a fuse in the connection of dual reds wires from R/R then connecting to red from Battery, which in my case is fused also.

They are showing 7 wire R/R:
3 Yellow to coils
2 reds, In my case to starter relay fuse.
2 Ground leads, which in my case go to system circuit ground and frame ground, I have found exta grounds (good solid ones) don't hurt!

Oh... [bThanks for your response![/b] Do you think it will fly? (work) I am going to go from 20ga to 18ga wire also.





David

Alright so you just have a two coil stator like the kdx, do it just like the writeup and tie it into the three yellow wires of R/R and you should be good.

If all you want to do is add a battery for lights/signals/horn then you're making much harder than it needs to be. rewrap your coil as shown in this thread, float the ground end and output to a R/R and be done.

With you saying that I think with a R/R you don't do a chassis ground. Just float the ground from the coil to one of the regulators grounds.

I have Battery and lights now... Isue is @ city speeds no charging as output is below 12VDC @ 11.8VDC. If I run around town @ 4000RPM it will reach 12.4VDC... But in 2nd GEAR? Thats crazy...

I want ti increase the output @ a lower RPM, Thats all... (If I run around @ 4000 RPM it gets the police to think I don't know how to ride... how to shift and get stopped. Then the language barrier takes over as he has to call his Boss who speaks a litle more English... who then calls for a "Tourist Policeman" who dismisses the whole thing... maybe an hour later

I am not worried about the possibility of over charging Battery.... Never Happen, with the R/R we have chosen and the Gel 5Ah Battery...

David

Here is the Bike I built... Everything works as EVERYTHING

Except the RPM I need to charge Battery @. I could do 2nd gear 4000 rpm all day... (people will think they hear a Dirtbike comming and expect it to come screamin down the street... It will also draw Police ttention as they will think I don't know how to ride, shift bike, Thus get me stopped!

Hi I'm wanting to do this myself what thickness wire do I need to use?

18ga copper core magnet wire.

Slick_Nick wrote:Right, I understand that, but when I had it hooked up previously, when the DMM was connected, having the stator shorted directly to ground, gave me 7.9a. Would it not make sense that this is the maximum the stator would output? I've got a few H7 headlight bulbs, I'll just wire those instead of the headlight (I think I even have a 100W H7 lying around) so that I don't end up with a daisy chain of dinky bulbs everywhere.

Doesn't look like it's fused anywhere, but is the stock wiring ok for 100W through the headlight? Would only be for a minute or so.

Per your diagram is not your CDI also tied in this circuit? Look at wiring carefully...

No the CDI is only tied into the igniter coil, not the lighting circuit of the stator.

Where is the cheapest place to get the wire to rewind my lighting coil. And about how many lbs of wire do i need.
thanks roy

I paid 12 bucks for a small spool of 18 gauge on eBay. Just type " 18 gauge wire" I think. I rewound a kawasaki bayou stator, and still have a lot left over.

Make sure to get copper core wire also, they sell aluminum stuff too but you don't want that.

Thanks I've got it on order.

Would this do the trick even though it says non-solderable? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnet-Wire-Ena ... 3a8a00eafc

Yeah that will work, it's just the enamel that can't be soldered.

I actually ended up getting this stuff: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 1137776953

It can be soldered, but the coating (insulation) needs to be stripped off.

Yep you've got it.