Man, just have to let it out!!
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Man, just have to let it out!!
What a bummer!!, this past Sunday I had my 17 year old son race single track for the first time on his '06 KDX200 (so please bear with me as we're beginners at this racing stuff). His bike has the kx fork conversion & most of the mods suggested by you guys in this forum with the exception of the RB head & carb mod. He got out 2nd on the start & kept that position for an hour (the race lasted hour & a half) until he got a flat ending his chances to finish. It was a rocky terrain & we were running 15 psi front & rear (although I have to say we were running a standard tube so most likely it was a rookie mistake on our part). Can anyone give us some directions as to what can we do to minimize flats?. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Roger
Thanks,
Roger
- Coop
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A few suggestions:
- -More pis (ride and traction will suffer however)
-Heavy Duty Tubes
-Talcom powder on tube
-Old tube slit and wrapped around new tube
-Avoid rocks
"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do" - Mark Twain
2003 KDX200
2003 KDX200
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Bummer on the flat.
Here is my opinion, and what works for my terrain where we have few rocks but lots and lots of roots.
I run those super heavy tubes. They aren't just thick, they are really thick!
I use duct tape instead of the rim liner.
I make sure the rim lock is in good shape.
I leave the rim lock nut loose until the tire is mounted and inflated and the bead set. I tighten the rim lock down last.
I leave the valve stem nut loose and run a bead of silicone around the valve stem and the rim lock bolt. I'm trying to keep gritty water from getting in between the tire and tube.
I run 8 psi front, 8-1/2 rear. Any more than that and traction and handling go to sh&t.
I haven't got a flat in a long time. I used to get flats using standard tubes from the valve stem getting torn off or grit scuffing a hole through the tube.
Despite the prevailing internet wisdom, 8 psi front will not result in a pinch flat on my bike. 15 would be slip and sliding around.
Here is my opinion, and what works for my terrain where we have few rocks but lots and lots of roots.
I run those super heavy tubes. They aren't just thick, they are really thick!
I use duct tape instead of the rim liner.
I make sure the rim lock is in good shape.
I leave the rim lock nut loose until the tire is mounted and inflated and the bead set. I tighten the rim lock down last.
I leave the valve stem nut loose and run a bead of silicone around the valve stem and the rim lock bolt. I'm trying to keep gritty water from getting in between the tire and tube.
I run 8 psi front, 8-1/2 rear. Any more than that and traction and handling go to sh&t.
I haven't got a flat in a long time. I used to get flats using standard tubes from the valve stem getting torn off or grit scuffing a hole through the tube.
Despite the prevailing internet wisdom, 8 psi front will not result in a pinch flat on my bike. 15 would be slip and sliding around.
'08 KTM200xc
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
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Bridgestone Ultra-Heavy-Duty Tubes are the thickest and toughest tubes by far. There are others (Moose, Micheline, etc.) but they all cost about the same, and the Bridgestones are superior. After a while you may here something rolling around in them. That is the rubber as it gets balled up inside. Don't worry about it. Tire changes will be a bit tougher, though.
2004 Dual Sported KDX200
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
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The wheel had:
-the powder
-duct tape
-wheel lock & valve stem loose until the the tire was mounted & inflated
So what I gather is to keep the above & add:
-Old tube slit and wrapped around new tube (I've heard that one before)
-I leave the valve stem nut loose and run a bead of silicone around the valve stem and the rim lock bolt. (This is a new one for me. Makes sense though 'cause when I usually remove the tube, the stem area is rusty)
-Run 8 psi front, 8-1/2 rear. Any more than that and traction and handling go to sh&t. (Have you tried this pressure on rocky terrain?. I mean, I wish i could run this with no problems).
Thanks for your prompt responses!
Roger
-the powder
-duct tape
-wheel lock & valve stem loose until the the tire was mounted & inflated
So what I gather is to keep the above & add:
-Old tube slit and wrapped around new tube (I've heard that one before)
-I leave the valve stem nut loose and run a bead of silicone around the valve stem and the rim lock bolt. (This is a new one for me. Makes sense though 'cause when I usually remove the tube, the stem area is rusty)
-Run 8 psi front, 8-1/2 rear. Any more than that and traction and handling go to sh&t. (Have you tried this pressure on rocky terrain?. I mean, I wish i could run this with no problems).
Thanks for your prompt responses!
Roger
- kdxmaniac
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what about a bib mose, or whaterver that foam insert that takes the place of a tube is???
my bikes
-------------
96 ktm 300
96 XR400R
07 hayabusa
77 kz 1000
85 goldwing 1200
02 BIG DOG PITBULL
gone but not forgotten
96 kdx 200
98 ktm 380 "because it dang near killed me!"
97 ktm 360
96 ktm 250
93 wr 250
94 dr 350s
93 kx 250
07 gsxr 1000
99 bandit 1200
-------------
96 ktm 300
96 XR400R
07 hayabusa
77 kz 1000
85 goldwing 1200
02 BIG DOG PITBULL
gone but not forgotten
96 kdx 200
98 ktm 380 "because it dang near killed me!"
97 ktm 360
96 ktm 250
93 wr 250
94 dr 350s
93 kx 250
07 gsxr 1000
99 bandit 1200
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Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
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tennis ball...
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
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bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
- kdxmaniac
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I run ultra heavy duty tubes and I change them out with a new one every tire change. Some people say they are harder to install but I've never noticed any difference. It's all in your technique
I usually always run 10 - 12 psi
in 8 years Ive had 2 flats on the KDX
When I can afford it, I'm going to go tubliss
I usually always run 10 - 12 psi
in 8 years Ive had 2 flats on the KDX
When I can afford it, I'm going to go tubliss
Warning! This member tends to use sarcasm as a regular form of communication. If a post seems offensive, before you panic and fly off the handle, re-read the post and imagine it being said with a sideways grin.
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
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i run michelin comp 3 & 4 tyres as these have a good strong carcass ..combine these with a `ultra` heavy duty tube along with tyre slime or gloop (puncture preventitive) & you can rest assure you`ll be able run a low tyre pressure between 10 - 14 psi without the fear of a flat....bib moose are expensive & dont last more than a tyre change or two before they start to break down due to chaffing inside the tyre/rim..if you can afford this expense then they are the solution to your puncture probs, if not then stick with a good tough tyre with a heavy duty tube & run the tyre between 12/15 psi on stoney/rocky ground depending on your weight..
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Ultra HD TUBES or go TuBliss
"Growing Old is Mandatory, Growing Up is Optional"
2008 KLX450R
2008 DRZ400SM
2005 KDX 220R
1985 KDX 200A3
2005 KLX 125L (SONS)
2003 KTM 50SX Pro Jr
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2008 KLX450R
2008 DRZ400SM
2005 KDX 220R
1985 KDX 200A3
2005 KLX 125L (SONS)
2003 KTM 50SX Pro Jr
B Senior # 254/0092
http://sponsorhouse.loopd.com/Members/R ... fault.aspx
Thanks to my 2008 Sponsers:
Dunlop, SteelMX, Amsoil, Simpson, Pro Works Racing, Pro Moto Billet, SLAP Energy,Boyesen, Rhino Stands, SixSixOne/SunLine Moto for your support.
John W Read Jr
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A couple of enduros north of here are pretty rocky and I had no problems.-Run 8 psi front, 8-1/2 rear. Any more than that and traction and handling go to sh&t. (Have you tried this pressure on rocky terrain?. I mean, I wish i could run this with no problems).
When scootng along I doubt the tire can tell the difference between a 4" root or a rock.
Tire pressure has a lot to do with rider/bike weight, also. I'm only 170 lb.
I judge good pressure for me by a few measures:
Good traction
Good handling
A 1/8" to 3/16" wide shiny band on the rim right at the tire bead. That tells me the tire is flexing and conforming.
A couple of pounds can make a big difference. A good tire gauge is hard to find. I made one out of a 0-20 psi mechanical gauge
'08 KTM200xc
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy