KDXRIDER.NET

KDX Butterfly wrote:I have calipers! :) My own, even! Nothin' more awesome than a chick w/ calipers, huh??

LOL my wife enjoys working on bikes too. So yes I agree, pretty awesome :)

Sorry to hear about your troubles SS. I know I would have been excited to try it out too. Please let us know how it goes when you talk to Revloc.

SS109 wrote:

David_L6 wrote:I'd call Alan (Revloc) and ask him. I've talked to him a couple of times. Very nice guy.

I already fired off an email with the above pics to him and I'll try to call them tomorrow.

KDX Butterfly wrote:I (obviously) do not have any experience with the DynaRing, but would I be out of line in asking if everything is in complete alignment? (All plates are in place?)

There isn't anything to align where I'm having the problem. Look at the top pic. The only two parts I'm talking about is the shiny one on top (Dyna) and the one that looks like a gear (hub) that the Dyna is sitting on. The Dyna has a large open area that slides over the hub. The opening is completely smooth without any teeth whatsoever so it should just slide on. Sorry if the top pic is misleading as I have it sitting on top of the steels and friction plates that were removed.

Anyways, I just finished buttoning it back up for the night. I'll wait until I talk with Alan and see what he has to say.

Not misleading at all. Inda made me clean my clutch basket and plates once, so I saw that. What you are saying is that, even if the Dyna is at a slight angle, it should just slide right down?

Think I will go to Revloc today and do some reading. (After I get done w/ my medical terminology homework.)

Let us know what Alan says.

I had the same problem with mine. I talked with Allen, who recommended using a little sandpaper/emory cloth to just slightly relieve the clutch hub. I first tried with 400 grit, but wasn't getting anywhere, so I hit it with some 120 to actually remove some material. I also lightly sanded the inside of the Dynaring. It took a fair amount of sanding to get the hub small enough to get the ring on, but it went on. And as was mentioned, it got easier as it went down the hub.

My friction discs also seem to be a mismatch with the Revloc steel plates--the machined edge of the steel plates contacts the friction fiber. I thought maybe this was by design, but now think it's probably wrong. That would explain why it took so much clutch preload to get any disengagement--so much that I couldn't pull the clutch in fully. I'll talk to Allen next week to get the scoop. This weekend, I'll be riding with the stock clutch.

Thanks for the info. I wonder why they didn't just make it where it would slide over with no problem. At least put something in the instructions about possibly needing to mod the hub a bit and I would have been good. I hope they either revise the design (preferably) or change the install notes so that future KDX owners won't have the same problem.

Alan got in touch with me about the Dyna. He is sending me another one without even sending the other back first! All have to do when it arrives is pull out the new one, drop the old one in the box, affix the return label, and drop it off! Now that, my friends, is what I call service! With service like this I can guarantee you that any bike I put an auto-clutch in will be getting a Revloc product! Alan, you and Revloc are tops in my book!

SS109 wrote:Thanks for the info. I wonder why they didn't just make it where it would slide over with no problem. At least put something in the instructions about possibly needing to mod the hub a bit and I would have been good. I hope they either revise the design (preferably) or change the install notes so that future KDX owners won't have the same problem.

I'd imagine that some clutch hubs have more wear than others

Probably the one they used for R&D was pretty worn

I haven't been able to contact Alan about the fiber plates--I tried calling yesterday and today, but no answer. He must be out riding. I reread the instructions that came with my Dynaring, and it states specifically to use six OEM fibers, so I just bit the bullet and ordered some from Bike Bandit. I'll report back.

My friction discs are whatever came with my bike but they match up fine.

New Dyna showed up today. I'll try installing it later.

Got it installed today. It slid right over the hub with no problem.

Now my problem is that I can't get it adjusted right. I have my cable adjusted so tight that it actually hangs up when I pull it in all the way due to the cam on the clutch pusher moving too far. Even with this tight of an adjustment it still wants to pull hard at idle. Anybody have any ideas on what the hell is going on?

EDIT: Just got it to where it works, sorta. I can feel the Dyna doing its job and it feels kind of weird but I can get used to it. However, the cable is still adjusted way tight and there is no way in hell I can find neutral while the bike is running as I can't really use the clutch lever (if I do the clutch will hang).

A thought and some info. My clutch was fine before the swap. My clutch cable was far from being stretched out and functioned smoothly.

For the Dyna I had to adjust the middle cable adjuster and the one at the perch almost all the way out to get it where I could push the bike in gear with clutch lever out. The pull still feels smooth. It appears that my clutch lever at the case is pulled against the clutch pusher all the time. I'm thinking I don't have enough gap inside somewhere. Possibly, do I need to change the thrust washer?

there is a shim adjustment in there,cant say for sure that it's the problem bu well worth looking into.

take a look at this thread http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10211
it has a little info on shims and the pull arm

OK, I tried the shim under the clutch pusher rod. It made it where at least the clutch doesn't hang up anymore. However, the cable seems to be under a lot of tension still and the clutch pull is a lot harder than the stock clutch. Still smooth but harder. Plus, I cannot pull the clutch lever all the way to the handlebars anymore. Maybe 1/3 of the way and that is it.

To those of you that have done the Dyna swap, are these things the norm? Maybe it is time for new friction discs? I'll have to mic them tomorrow (today!) to know for sure.

SS109 wrote:OK, I tried the shim under the clutch pusher rod. It made it where at least the clutch doesn't hang up anymore. However, the cable seems to be under a lot of tension still and the clutch pull is a lot harder than the stock clutch. Still smooth but harder. Plus, I cannot pull the clutch lever all the way to the handlebars anymore. Maybe 1/3 of the way and that is it.

To those of you that have done the Dyna swap, are these things the norm? Maybe it is time for new friction discs? I'll have to mic them tomorrow (today!) to know for sure.

Not normal. I didn't have any problems at all installing and adjusting the Dyna Ring in our 2000 KDX200.

These are all the same issues I had when I installed the 'ring. My theory was that the mismatch between the fiber plates inner diameter of the machined Revloc steel plates is the culprit. As delivered, the Revloc steel plates have a machined ridge toward the center of the plates which touche the surface of the friction plates. I think that ridge should "nest" down inside the inner diameter of the friction plates. If it doesn't, then the stack height of the assembled clutch is too high, and it then takes a tremendous amount of preload with the clutch cable to get ANY kind of slip to happen.

The rumor is that OEM Kawasaki friction plates (rather than aftermarket)have a different inner diameter for the friction material, and thus the ridge on the Revloc steel plates doesn't land on the surface of the friction material. I have six OEM friction discs on order from Bike Bandit.

Interestingly, the one different friction disc in my E clutch (the top disc, which has the angled cuts in the friction material), was a good match with the Revloc steel plates. I suppose six of those might work, too, as long as their thickness is comparable to the main friction discs.

If the OEM plates arrive and they still don't match the Revloc steel plates, then I'll either grind/cut some of the friction material on my friction plates, or I'll return them and try six of the angled fiber plates.

On a slightly different note, I discovered something interesting when reading about clutch reassembly in Cyclepedia manual. I have assembled the stock clutch a dozen times without knowing that the last plate (the angle-cut fiber plate) is supposed to sit in the detent on top of the clutch basket, rather than in line with the rest of the friction discs. D'OH!! I wonder if that makes any difference with regards to clutch pull and clutch drag??

dfeckel wrote:These are all the same issues I had when I installed the 'ring. My theory was that the mismatch between the fiber plates inner diameter of the machined Revloc steel plates is the culprit. As delivered, the Revloc steel plates have a machined ridge toward the center of the plates which touche the surface of the friction plates. I think that ridge should "nest" down inside the inner diameter of the friction plates. If it doesn't, then the stack height of the assembled clutch is too high, and it then takes a tremendous amount of preload with the clutch cable to get ANY kind of slip to happen.

The rumor is that OEM Kawasaki friction plates (rather than aftermarket)have a different inner diameter for the friction material, and thus the ridge on the Revloc steel plates doesn't land on the surface of the friction material. I have six OEM friction discs on order from Bike Bandit.

Interestingly, the one different friction disc in my E clutch (the top disc, which has the angled cuts in the friction material), was a good match with the Revloc steel plates. I suppose six of those might work, too, as long as their thickness is comparable to the main friction discs.

If the OEM plates arrive and they still don't match the Revloc steel plates, then I'll either grind/cut some of the friction material on my friction plates, or I'll return them and try six of the angled fiber plates.

On a slightly different note, I discovered something interesting when reading about clutch reassembly in Cyclepedia manual. I have assembled the stock clutch a dozen times without knowing that the last plate (the angle-cut fiber plate) is supposed to sit in the detent on top of the clutch basket, rather than in line with the rest of the friction discs. D'OH!! I wonder if that makes any difference with regards to clutch pull and clutch drag??

I don't even understand why those ridges on the steels are necessary. The stockers didn't have them so why doe the Dyna need them?

As for the angled fiber location, wow, I didn't know that and the factory manual makes no mention of it that I can find!

Just took it for a little spin around my neighborhood and I'm NOT pleased! All that pressure caused my clutch cover to break at one of the mounting points. Of course, it just had to be one of the two on the bottom. No, it was not over-torqued. Now my bike is peeing transmission fluid everywhere, my bike is covered in it, and so is my boot! I guess no more riding for me for a while.

Really? That sucks!

Yep. It appears I'm having the same problem as dfeckel is. However, I could have sworn my frictions discs were stock Kawasaki. Maybe not.

dfeckel, did you ever get a hold of Alan about this? If you haven't, when you talk to him find out exactly which OEM plates the Dyna was designed to use, 13088-1058, 13088-1081, or what combination thereof.

BobbyZ wrote:there is a shim adjustment in there,cant say for sure that it's the problem bu well worth looking into.

take a look at this thread http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10211
it has a little info on shims and the pull arm

The E manual makes no mention of this, I always figured it to be for the H series only