Fixing a flat

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Mark W
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Fixing a flat

Post by Mark W »

Any tips tricks or special things to remember? Son got a flat on his KX65 today and cut the day a little short. Stopped by a Kawasaki dealer on the way home just to see if they could fix it quickly. I think I get a prize for the ost outrageuos estimate to fix somethingon the bike. The shop was going to charge me $90 plus the cost of the tube to replace the tube in the front wheel. guess they really didn't want to do it. Also found out thatit was "only" $35 plus the cost of the tube if the wheel was off the bike. Simple math suggests that they wanted to get $55 to remove the font wheel.

Wish I could make this kine of coin.

Mark
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Post by miteymike »

i just got done doing this get yourself a couple of tire spoons it makes it alot easier and some tri flow for the lube be generous it helps it should only take you about 15 to 20 mins if you have the right tools and i say to use the spoons because you will have alot slimmer chance of pinching the new tube with those hope it helps some also look around there is a place here in Salem OR that only charges $10.00 plus the cost of tube which is only $7.00 or $14.00 depending on if you want heavy duty or not
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Post by skipro3 »

Some tire changing tips:
1. Search google. I'm sure someone out there has step-by-step photo instructions
2. After removing the wheel from the bike, place it over a 5 gallon bucket. That way it won't get the hub dinged up. If you don't have a bucket place it on some card board, carpet, the floormat from your car, etc.
3. Remove the valve stem and let all the air out
4. Remove the nut for the rimlock.
5. Break the bead. That means get the tire bead from sticking to the rim by pressing in on the bead until it falls into the rim near the spoke nipples.
6. starting at the rim lock, use an iron on each side and slip the bead of the tire over the rim. Keep the far side tire deep into the middle of the rim, giving you more tire to slip over the other side.
7. Keep working the bead over the rim until that whole side is off.
8. Remove the inner tube nut at the valve stem and take the tube out.
9. Remove the valve stem from the new tube and place into the tire. Use baby powder or talcim powder so the tub won't pinch or have any folds in it.
10. Attach the nut for the tube.
11. Starting at the bead lock, work the tire back over the rim.
12. Keep working around to the other side, keeping the tire into the middle of the rim, giveing you more tire room to fit the bead over the rim.
13. Use a spray lube that will evaporate like silicone spray to help if the tire is a tight fit over the rim. On a KX65 - small tire, you should be able to do all this by hand and not even need your irons let alone lube. Don't use soapy water because some water will find the spoke nipples and rust them out and you won't be able to tighten spokes as they come loose and streach.
14. After the tire is on the rim, be sure the bead lock is in proper position.
15. Without inserting the valve stem's schrader valve, fill the tire with air until the bead seats.
16. let the air out, assemble the valve stem's schrader valve and inflate to proper air pressure.
17. Re-mount the wheel to the bike and test the brakes and other functions before letting sonny boy ride it.
7.
Jerry

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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

skipro3 wrote: 13. Use a spray lube...
This stuff works really good! "Clicky"

I really worked up a sweat trying to mount the rear tire on my DR650
Tried a lil of that and she slipped right on!
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Post by KDXer »

Mr. Wibbens wrote:I really worked up a sweat trying to mount the rear tire on my DR650
:shock:

You really should get yourself a woman Wibs. :lol:
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Post by m0rie »

Good Lord! I'm not going anywhere near your rear tire! :lol:
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Post by IdahoCharley »

I guess Wibs does get close and very personnal with his KDX. :rolleyes:
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Thanks to everyone except maybe Wibby

Post by Mark W »

Thanks for the help. It sounds like maybe Wibby needs more help than I do. Had a good laugh over using the KY on the inner tube. I was at home browsing the site and came across wibby's response. I clicked on the link and the KY site came up just as my wife walked into the office. Should have seen the look on her face and then you should hae seen the look on my face. When I tried to show her why I was at the KY jelly site, the computer froze.

I won't even ask how using this product for changing tires was even thought of.

Mark
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Post by canyncarvr »

re: 6. starting at the rim lock, use an iron on each side...

That IS on either side of the rim lock, NOT on either side of the tire.

When you put the tire back on DO make sure #12 happens. It's easy to have the bead ride up OUT of the center of the rim...it makes getting the bead over the rim real tough! They make things like 'bead buddys' to keep the tire bead IN the middle of the wheel. Use your imagination..pressure with your knees and maybe a piece of 2x4 on the floor side (I put my wheel on pieces of 2x6 to space the sprocket/rotor to safety) to keep the bead where it needs to be.

If you're changing the tire (completely off the rim), when you put the first bead on, make sure the rim lock is INside the tire. Lever the bead onto the rim, then over the rim lock..push the lock up into the tire, then release the bead.

The most common mistake in mounting a tire (sez me) is taking too big a bite of bead at a time. After you do it a couple of times you will get to know exactly where to put the next lever. There is a 'loose' spot (well...looser) just inches from the last lever that will allow relatively easy lever insertion.

Three levers makes the job a whole lot eaiser than two. Try placing two levers into position before you actually move the bead over the rim. Then you won't have to fight getting the next lever placed...it's already there! That will greatly reduce tube pinching. If you wait to place the next lever you may push too hard to get it between the bead and rim..grabbing a piece of tube in the process.

But...what do I know! I've changed my own tires for years...decades even...BUT...three of the last four tire changes resulted in a holed tubes. Prior to that, I'd only lost one tube!!

Carry your spoons with you..well at least in the truck. Have a spare tube and you can change it 'on-site' in minutes. Butyl tubes cost less, but getting a patch to stick may be iffy. Considering the hassle, I've never patched my dirt bike tubes. Natural rubber tubes cost more...leave a considerable mess inside the tire/rim when the rubber comes off...and they tend to lose air over time (you will be adding air each ride most likely. Mine are low every week). BUT they are 'supposed' to be better at resisting pinch flats while riding.

Oh...most air chucks I've seen on home compressers need the valve IN the tube to depress the pin IN the chuck. Keep that in mind when you remove the schrader valve and your air chuck don't work....... :wink:

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Post by KDXGarage »

No bead lock to worry about on the front wheel of a KX65, so that saves you some trouble.

Besides making sure you have some tire irons, make sure you let it set out in the sun for 20 - 30 minutes on each side. That makes it easier to work with.

Like canyncarvr said, take small bites and work it around.

If you are worried about tire balance, make a small mark on the rim and tire, marking where the tire was mounted originally so that you can put it back on in the same place. Use a crayon, magic marker or even a tire crayon if you have one.

I use baby powder between the tube and tire to keep it from getting folded over on itself.

Installing the tire with the tube slightly inflated helps sometimes on avoiding pinching it with a tire iron.

I use Dawn to lubricate the bead. I reach inside the tire and lube it before ever taking it off. It makes it slide on over the rim edge better.

BE CAREFUL to not warp the rotor. Get started on the rotor side, with it facing up. You may want to use some 2' long 2x4 pieces to keep the rotor from being damaged when you flip it over.

Take your time!

Good luck!
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Re: Thanks to everyone except maybe Wibby HUH???

Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Mark W wrote:I won't even ask how using this product for changing tires was even thought of.

Mark
Well you really want to hear the whole story???

Ok, It all started late one night in December, it was like 20 degrees outside so I had decided to change my tyre in the house. I needed something to lube the tyre with and as luck would have it there was a bottle of KY on my computer desk...
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Post by canyncarvr »

Sorry. You're right about the bead lock part, natch. I was thinking more along the line of 'general' stuff, not the specific question.

Yeah...rotor up! It's smaller than the sprocket (probably...I don't know what size the sprocket is on a KX65) so you have more room to move your levers.

BTW...$90. That's so ridiculous it's laughable! How did you keep from laughing in their face(s)?

Still, it is true that if you need something to happen NOW...in most cases be prepared to PAY for it. Stilll...$90 is nuts.

One night late in December? Well...there's the 'warming' part, I suppose...... :roll:

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Post by KDXGarage »

He'd have to be pretty clumsy to hit the sprocket when changing the tube in the front tire. :lol:

To add to that, I will make a joke on myself.

HE IS JUST CHANGING THE TUBE, NOT THE TIRE, JASON!!

OK, that is better. :lol:

To the original poster, when you pull one tire bead over the rim so you can pull out the old tube and slide in the new tube, make sure you pull the rotor side of the tire off. The TIRE :shock: lube , tire irons, baby powder, etc. comments still apply. DO put some air into the tube to get it to straighten out some before you slide the bead back over the rim. Rub some Dawn or similar TIRE :shock: lube on the outside of the rim before sliding it back over. When you get the rim back over, run a shop rag up under the bead of the tire to get most of the lube off.

Again, good luck and take your time!
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Post by canyncarvr »

Jason...you read too well!!!

I missed the 'front' part, too. Crime'ny. I should at LEAST bother to read good.

Sorry, Mark. Hope some of the hopelessly useless tips above help you out SOMEtime or other!

re: just the tube.

Yeah...but I wasn't going to SAY anything about it................... :roll:
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Post by KDXGarage »

Sorry to step on your toes.[/b]
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Post by canyncarvr »

My toes are fine, Jason. I thought it was good humor! ;)

If you (or anyone else) fail(s) to point out the obvious (or not so obvious) errors in anything I post, THEN I'll have something to be irritated about!! :wink:

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Post by KDXGarage »

OK. With the rolling eyes, I just thought you were having a rough time getting back to work. :grin:
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Oh my God!!!!

Post by Mark W »

Midnight, KY on the computer desk, where is this leading?

I've changed many many bicycle tires when I used to race semi-professionally. Then I discovered beer, then girls, and then girls who drank beer. Haven't ridden since except with the kids on the bicycle paths around town.

I don't think this will pose too much of a problem for me. Sounds similar to changing a bicycle tire only a little harder with the tire bead being tougher to get over the rim. Think some bicycle tire irons will work? Got myself a real nice pair and all.

Mark
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Post by KDXGarage »

I have never had to use tire irons on a bicycle tire (though I have a set of 3 Trek plastic "tire irons" in the garage). What kind of bicycle tire do you really have to use irons on, road bike?? I have no experience with those.

The bead will be the toughest part, so let it bake in the sun for a while.
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Post by canyncarvr »

re: bike 'irons'

Doubt it! :wink:

Well, the last bicycle 'irons' I used were closer to popsicle sticks.

Get some good ones. MotionPro makes some nice smooth irons. Longer ones are nice, but you may not have enough space to use'm on a small wheel.

Not all tires are the same size. Dunlops fit fairly easily in my experience. Some of the stiffer types of tires (sand paddles or the Maxxis tires I've changed) will take every bit of spit-n-poop you gots when it comes to the last couple inches of the second bead. There've been a couple of times I thought I was going to separate a rib!!

BTW..KX65/front/rear/whatever ;) ...using some gloves is usually a good thing. When you're in the bust-a-gut mode pushing that lousy bead on..having your hands slip off the iron can be a b-a-h-d thing!

YeOW!!

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