Quick question! - Tusk crank installer
- SS109
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Quick question! - Tusk crank installer
Getting ready to place an order with RMATV and was thinking I should get one of the Tusk crank installers to make the job easier. Anyone used one these and specifically on the KDX?
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Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
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AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
- Mr. Wibbens
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Tried
It won't work on a KDX (at least not on an E)
The crank must have 10 or 12mm threads.
It won't work on a KDX (at least not on an E)
The crank must have 10 or 12mm threads.
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- JoKDX220r
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Mabey this link can help you :
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6394
It's in the product review section.
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6394
It's in the product review section.
- Julien D
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- SS109
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Wow, somehow I overlooked that thread. Thanks a bunch guys as you saved me $60!JoKDX220r wrote:Mabey this link can help you :
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6394
It's in the product review section.
Youtube Channel: WildAzzRacing
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
- Slick_Nick
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- Julien D
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- Slick_Nick
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How is a tool that performs it's desired function and makes your life easier a waste of cash? Money well spent as far as I'm concerned.juliend wrote:Cuz it's a waste of cash that could be spent on new bearings?Slick_Nick wrote:I bought it and love it! You need to sweat the left side of the crank into the case, but the other side works great to seal the cases together and pull the crank into the bearing.
Don't know why people don't like it?
'00 KDX 220R
- Julien D
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Never needed one, and I see no reason to spend $60 on something to make a 10 minute job take 7 minutes. If the only thing it helps with is seating the left case half...
If you like it though, that's cool. It's good that you feel your money was well spent. I just see no reason why I would need it. I've never had a hard time getting a crank back IN. Out is a different story....
If you like it though, that's cool. It's good that you feel your money was well spent. I just see no reason why I would need it. I've never had a hard time getting a crank back IN. Out is a different story....
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So the Tusk tool will work on only one side of the crank, correct?
I personally might get it next time I rebuild the bottom end because I have a tough time getting the cases close enough together to get any bolts started. I use a press to get one side of the crank installed in one case half, but getting the other case half on far enough to start any case bolts is tough. I think last time I had to rig somthing with the long bolts that came with my case splitter.
Maybe it would have gone easier if I heated up the left case half before dropping it on. The wife loves it when I stink up the kitchen with case halves on the skillet!
I personally might get it next time I rebuild the bottom end because I have a tough time getting the cases close enough together to get any bolts started. I use a press to get one side of the crank installed in one case half, but getting the other case half on far enough to start any case bolts is tough. I think last time I had to rig somthing with the long bolts that came with my case splitter.
Maybe it would have gone easier if I heated up the left case half before dropping it on. The wife loves it when I stink up the kitchen with case halves on the skillet!
David Eckel
- SS109
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Here is some info I found on another site to install the bearings and it can be used for the crank as well if your careful and fast.
Thier is another way to deal with bearings and I'm suprised no one has mentioned this in the past. I think 2t institute probably knows this trick. What we are talking about is something called thermal differential it is the swing in the temp range to fit things together that have an iterference fit. That means the space between the bearing and hole in this case measures around a human hair cut into 1/4ths yes a very small difference.
So creating a temp difference between the hole and the bearing needs to be around 200 degrees f. heat exspands cold shrinks.Ok hear it is dry ice and lacqure thinner or acetone will get you well bellow minus 150 degrees.So drop the bearing in the mix for a few minutes pull it out it out with kitchen thongs and it will drop right ih the hole. I find this easier than dealing with really hot case halfs. Again bearings at minus 150 case halfs at 70 degrees gives you a temp swing of 220 degrees.
Youtube Channel: WildAzzRacing
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
- Slick_Nick
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Problem with the heat freeze method is that on the kdx, the seals are installed from the inside so you need to be REAL careful with the blowtorch so u don't melt the seal. I've tried dry ice for the crank, and also just leaving it in the freezer overnight and didn't notice any difference when compared with the dry ice. Dropped in just as easy.
The crank installer helps make sure the case halves are fully seated before trying to bolt it together. Using bolts to bring the cases together is not the proper way and can warp the case halves.
The crank installer helps make sure the case halves are fully seated before trying to bolt it together. Using bolts to bring the cases together is not the proper way and can warp the case halves.
'00 KDX 220R
- Julien D
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I'd never use a blowtorch near the seals, or on any case half if I can help it. You're much more likely to warp the case with a blowtorch, it's hard to keep even heat.Slick_Nick wrote:Problem with the heat freeze method is that on the kdx, the seals are installed from the inside so you need to be REAL careful with the blowtorch so u don't melt the seal. I've tried dry ice for the crank, and also just leaving it in the freezer overnight and didn't notice any difference when compared with the dry ice. Dropped in just as easy.
The crank installer helps make sure the case halves are fully seated before trying to bolt it together. Using bolts to bring the cases together is not the proper way and can warp the case halves.
Bearings and crank go in the freezer over night. Case halves go in the oven @ about 175 - 200 degrees. Drop the seals and bearings in. Like butta! After everything comes back to room temp, the case halves with bearings and seals installed go BACK in the oven for another round. Crank drops through the RH case, LH case slides over.
Of course, the dry ice method will work too, and keep you from having to heat the cases.
All done :)
- SS109
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Man, I'm glad I started this thread now. I'm getting some reminders of things I had forgotten.
Youtube Channel: WildAzzRacing
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R