Metal Is Your Friend

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KDX4ID
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Metal Is Your Friend

Post by KDX4ID »

Had a day above 40 degrees. Installed the front braided brake line.

Easy squeezy! What a difference. As much as hate say this, in my humble opinion KTM brakes are a solid 10. The KDX with the braided line feels like a solid eight (in the around the block test).

We'll see.
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gregp
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Post by gregp »

I will gladly give up two points on your scale, for the pad longevity of the KDX brake systems. On the few KTM's I have owned, have all eaten rear pads at an alarming rate. I tried bleeding the systems, adjusting the pedal height, rebuilding calipers, and several styles and compositions of pads, all with no success in increasing longevity.
KDX rear pads will last me a year.
KTM rear pads will last me a week. And I never could figure out why.
2004 Dual Sported KDX200
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
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scheckaet
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Post by scheckaet »

worn out pins is usually the culprit.
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Post by ihatefalling »

How did you bleed them?

I bought a braided line and it made very little difference. I reverse bled them from the bottom and could swear there is no air in there. I probably bled a pint thru the system.

My DRZs front brake it tight. If it were a 10, I'd call my KDX a 5 :evil: :evil: :evil:
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gregp
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Post by gregp »

>|<>QBB<
scheckaet wrote:worn out pins is usually the culprit.
At one point EBC was selling pads that came with new pins, they didn't help.
My older brother owns a DRZ, and he recently rode my KDX. He came back raving about my brakes. My KDX stops extremely well. Pad composition can make a huge difference in braking power. I usually run sintered pads in the rear, and plain organic pads up front.
2004 Dual Sported KDX200
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

Really? I run stock Carbon pads.... they last longer than anything else I have run by far.
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Post by Slick_Nick »

I have tried EBC and Tusk, I got only slightly more use out of the EBC's than the Tusk's (which last about 50 hours) so for $9 a set, I just buy a few sets of the tusks and don't have to worry about it.
'00 KDX 220R
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KDX4ID
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Post by KDX4ID »

>|<>QBB<
ihatefalling wrote:How did you bleed them?

I bought a braided line and it made very little difference. I reverse bled them from the bottom and could swear there is no air in there. I probably bled a pint thru the system.

My DRZs front brake it tight. If it were a 10, I'd call my KDX a 5 :evil: :evil: :evil:
I used the syringe from the bottom then bled them nomally. Maybe there's a problem somewhere else?

Also, the changes are subtle with braided line. Don't expect your KDX to stop a train. For me there is better modulation or a better feel. Which inspires more confidence for the crazy assed situations I get into.
CURRENT FLEET
2008 KTM 990 Adventure...Alaska here I come!
2010 KTM 300 XCW... stop me before I buy again!
2005 KDX220... single track sweetie
2007 KTM 450 EXC... my baby
2008 KTM Superduke... Canyon Carver
1996 Honda 650L... GONE but not forgotten
http://www.friendsoftruckeetrails.org
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Post by rbates9 »

>|<>QBB<
Indawoods wrote:Really? I run stock Carbon pads.... they last longer than anything else I have run by far.
+1
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Post by gregp »

carbon/organic - same thing, yes? I run those up front. The sintered pads seem to last much longer on the rear, though.
I just installe Tusk sintered pads front and rear on my Kodiak. They work fine, and they are inexpensive, but the fronts let out an irritating chirp once in a while.
2004 Dual Sported KDX200
1999 Ninja 250 (Daughter's)
1996 DR 650 (stock, mostly street use)
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Post by moto_psycho »

>|<>QBB<
ihatefalling wrote:How did you bleed them?

I bought a braided line and it made very little difference. I reverse bled them from the bottom and could swear there is no air in there. I probably bled a pint thru the system.

My DRZs front brake it tight. If it were a 10, I'd call my KDX a 5 :evil: :evil: :evil:
thats pretty odd as I sold my DRZ about 2 months ago and think the KDX front brake is far superior (qualified mechanic before anyone tells me it was **** maintenance or that i dont know the difference between GG and HH etc etc)
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scheckaet
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Post by scheckaet »

>|<>QBB<
gregp wrote:>|<>QBB<
scheckaet wrote:worn out pins is usually the culprit.
At one point EBC was selling pads that came with new pins, they didn't help.
My older brother owns a DRZ, and he recently rode my KDX. He came back raving about my brakes. My KDX stops extremely well. Pad composition can make a huge difference in braking power. I usually run sintered pads in the rear, and plain organic pads up front.
I got both too. My Z was always better than my KDX.
The KDX always felt mushy even brand new from factory, I could pull the lever almost to the handle bar even after I bled them well.
Then I bled them again and again, and finally got as good as the Z, nice, tight, firm not mushy anymore.
I used a combo of slow reverse flush, tapping the line to get bubbles up, drank a few, wait overnight and repeat until they were good.
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