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I'm going to open up my clutch and have a look around. The bike operates fine at first, but once it is fully warmed up the clutch starts to drag pretty bad, and it gets really hard to find neutral. I'm assuming my basket is notched. What else should I look for that would create those problems?

The service manual talks about the 90 degree angle between the cable and the arm at the top of the tranny, but it's not real clear to me how that test is supposed to be done. Any tips on that?

Is the manual a good guide for disassembly and assembly or are there some tips/tricks and things to look out for? I know there is a washer to keep an eye on (I remember reading it before but can't find it now). Where is that washer and what is the typical mistake people make with it?

Thanks.

what fluid are you running? atf, or ????

Well, I've only had this bike since June. It had some kind of motor oil in it that hadn't been changed in a long time. I'm running some Castrol high mileage 5W-30 in it. I've ridden the bike about 6 times and changed oil 3 times trying to get it to clean up and hoping that clutch operation would improve. It hasn't yet.

Any High Mileage has friction modifiers in it. You need to get that out of there and use oil designed for wet clutch use. Most any 4 Stroke designated motorcycle 10-40 will be perfect.

You can use ATF.... I won't though.

I have used ATF since the 90's. It works well but you need to change it often. However it's not as cheap as it used to be so I am considering switching for this riding season.

Indawoods wrote:Any High Mileage has friction modifiers in it. You need to get that out of there and use oil designed for wet clutch use. Most any 4 Stroke designated motorcycle 10-40 will be perfect.

You can use ATF.... I won't though.

Inda, I ended up with this specific oil because in part it wasn't energy conserving (friction modifiers). I must be wrong on the "high mileage" part. Maybe it's for "older" engines. Either way I am sure it doesn't have the modifiers, but I will change to a 10-40 m/c oil when this stuff is gone.

Anyone have any input on my original questions?

my 300 drags bad when i use oil. i filed the basket down, and it still draged.........not as bad, but it still draged. i put atf in it, and it works good. ................i would drain the oil and try atf, and see if it helps.

Silly question maybe, but Dexron or Mercon (or whatever that non-GM stuff is)?

Maniac, does it get hard to find neutral with yours?

yes it was hard to get neutral, almost impossible! i started running atf{any brand works} and it works good. my bike would actualy "jump" when you put it in gear cold, and draged ALL the time.....was like the clutch wasnt pulled in all the way. if you run atf and it works for you, just remember to change it more often than oil. i dont change mine like some after every ride, but i do change it after 6 or so rides.

I've tried ATF a couple times but seems to go bad after only a couple long rides and I'm not into frequent oil changes so I just run 5w 30 motor oil and change it a couple times a year

Mr. Wibbens wrote:I've tried ATF a couple times but seems to go bad after only a couple long rides and I'm not into frequent oil changes so I just run 5w 30 motor oil and change it a couple times a year

how does it "seems to go bad" ?

[quote="Indawoods]

inda...........its hard as hell for me to read your post with the captain slaping the piss out of himself!

kdxmaniac wrote:

Mr. Wibbens wrote:I've tried ATF a couple times but seems to go bad after only a couple long rides and I'm not into frequent oil changes so I just run 5w 30 motor oil and change it a couple times a year

how does it "seems to go bad" ?

Shifting goes to hell, gets really notchy

Lot of miss shifts and goes into neutral at the wrong times

I had that experience w/ ATF as well.

Inda, it seems like at least valvoline maxlife doesn't spec EC. It's what I use. Old=put less chemicals in it to stop leaks i guess...LOL.

I know it doesn't say it anymore.... that is the "norm" now so they do not say it is energy conserving and has friction modifiers in it.

"IF" you can find the oil specs on the manufacturers site.... it will say so.

So, any kind of ATF works, or specifically Dex or Merc? I might try it. I don't mind changing the oil after every ride or every other. That's what I have been doing anyway to get this thing cleaned up.

Any hints on what to look for when I open this thing up? I'm concerned about that washer I seem to recall reading aobut.

ATF type F is safe for wet clutches.