Do I need to remove the front brake hose..........

[Fatherof2]

...........to remove the front wheel? Can I just hang the whole calper on the frame with a coat hanger with the hose connected? I would prefer to avoid opening the brake lines.

Thanks very much,

D.

[Mr. Wibbens]

you can just let it hang

no coat hanger required

But theres no need to remove the brake to get the wheel off

[scheckaet]

nope, no need to remove

[Fatherof2]

Thanks very much for the quick and helpful response!

David

[rbates9]

Theres no need to remove it like they said and it will just hang there if you do. Sometimes I take it off just to have one less thing to line up when putting the wheel back on.

[Fatherof2]

I am planning on removing the forks and sending them to FRP. How do I balance the bike on the stand so as to keep the front wheel off the ground? I need to pull the shock as well.

Thanks Guys,

D.

[Julien D]

You'll have to be creative. It's not to hard, just reposition your stand until you find a place where it balances the bike.

[Mr. Wibbens]

I am planning on removing the forks and sending them to FRP. How do I balance the bike on the stand so as to keep the front wheel off the ground? I need to pull the shock as well.

Thanks Guys,

D.

I just strap it to the stand or hang it from a ceiling joist

FRP? How many pennies that gonna run ya?

[Fatherof2]

I will hang some straps from the ceiling. Thanks for the tip.

FRP is going to re-spring and re-valve the fork and shock. It is going to cost about 500 bucks.

Thanks again,

D.

[frankenschwinn]

I will hang some straps from the ceiling. Thanks for the tip.

FRP is going to re-spring and re-valve the fork and shock. It is going to cost about 500 bucks.

Thanks again,

D.

Save your $$$ and put a KX front end on it.. Money better spent.

[Julien D]

$500. wow....

[scheckaet]

500 bux, that a bit steeeep.
Save your $$$ and put a KX front end on it.. Money better spent.

[KarlP]

$500 sounds about right for a revalve and spring change front and rear.

FRP does good work in my experience. FRP re did a bottom end for me and replaced some transmission and KIPS governor parts while he was in there. I was happy with the communication, cost and work.

You could also start down the never ending road of DIY improvement to your suspension. I've got way more than $500 in mine but it is sure not improved OEM stuff.

[Mr. Wibbens]

You can only polish a turd so much

[kdxmaniac]

You can only polish a turd so much

exactly......

[Fatherof2]

You know, I figured I needed new springs anyway. That was going to cost me 200 bucks. For 300 more, I am getting it re-valved. The bike only has 16 miles on it, so I figure it is worth the investment.

[rbates9]

I went for the fork swap and bought a complete bike and so far I'm down to having about $125 in the swap after rebuilding the forks and selling some of the parts. I still have more parts to sell when I get to it. So I figure I may end up getting paid to do it!

[OLHILLBILLY]

You know, I figured I needed new springs anyway. That was going to cost me 200 bucks. For 300 more, I am getting it re-valved. The bike only has 16 miles on it, so I figure it is worth the investment.

Messing with those stock forks is a waste of time. I resprung mine for my weight and thought they were better. But when I put the KX forks on there, I realized just how bad the stockers were. Don't think any amount of valving would ever bring them to the level of the KX forks.
The stock valving in the shock is fine, re spring it for your weight and put your $$ toward a good set of KX 125/250 forks, you won't regret it.

[Fatherof2]

Wow.....now I am caught in indecision!

Is revalving the front a waste of time? Is it more than a minor improvement over stock?

Is revalving the shock more noticeable?

I am a novice rider, and figured the stock fork would be fine for me.

Swaping the front end sounds like a big job. I am also a novice wrench.

Thanks Guys,

David

[OLHILLBILLY]

For a new rider the stock forks will be sufficient. Just re springing them for your weight will help a lot. You can mess with the oil level/weight along with the compression adjuster (search for threads on this) to get a little more out of them. I personally wouldn't bother with Gold Valves or such with them. When your riding ability gets past the stock forks, it's time to swap them.
The fork swap isn't as big of a job as it looks. Mainly takes a little preparation and parts gathering. I've seen several sets of KX forks/clamps on Ebay lately for a decent price, front wheels also (or Ron Black makes spacers to use your KDX front wheel with the KX forks). Also need a KX brake caliper hanger (don't need the caliper, just the hanger). The actual cost of the swap can vary by how blingy you want to get with your set-up.
Search through the fork conversion forum for all the details. And since many of us have done the conversion, if you have problems or questions, I'm sure the answers can be found from one or the other of us.
As for the shock, just re spring it for your weight (if necessary), make sure it has fresh oil in it and the proper Nitrogen charge, and it should be good for most anything with the stock valving.
The KDX's one (and IMO, only) weak link is those stock forks.