KDXRIDER.NET

Thanks Brian!

VirtualVarmint wrote:

Great. The "pot stirrer" gives me a boost of confidence.

.

BTW, "pot stirrer" ??

I'm just trying to do my duty as an honest citizen to get the facts

Old Mister Wunnerful likes to amaze everyone with his fancy words and tell ya why something won't work, even when it will

Mr. Wibbens wrote:

VirtualVarmint wrote:

Great. The "pot stirrer" gives me a boost of confidence.

.

BTW, "pot stirrer" ??

I'm just trying to do my duty as an honest citizen to get the facts

Old Mister Wunnerful likes to amaze everyone with his fancy words and tell ya why something won't work, even when it will

I'm just bustin'. Healty arguements and different opinions is what makes this forum awesome.

you forgot: and a lot of my needless bs

Re: 'no one seems to have any info to back it up..'

What do you want? A research study on small-end bearing wear?

If you don't want to change it...don't. If you do...do.

I'm sure it makes sense to some folks to go to the trouble of taking the top end apart, replacing a piston, wrist pin, and rings..but, hey! I'm not going to replace a perfectly good $10 bearing!!! If it was necessary it would be included!

...just like the bottom shock bearing is in every suspension 'kit'. Hey! If I needed to replace it, it would have been included!!!

Why bother greasing my brand new bike? Hey! If it needs grease, it would have been put IN there already.

I wanna see the info to back up the idea that I should grease it!

Change the fork oil? What the fork for? Hey! If the bike needed some kind'a different oil, it would have COME with it!!!

I don't need no steenking modification to my carbonator! Hey!! If the 33mm carby in my detuned 220 would be better in 35mm form..they would have put it in there to start with!!




Re: 'Just wet it with the WD 40 and run it around .....'

Really? I want to see the info to back THAT idea up!!


NOS=New Old Stock.

Yanno...kind'a like SFC=Skinny Fat Chick!


Gaskets? You didn't get a gasket set? The cylinder gasket (bottom) is in the kit.

Another question, the LH thread on the advancer shaft lever... is that the shaft everyone says needs to be supported?

You did get that answer, correct?

..but the brown cylinder smears didn't come off with a wipe of the finger but they weren't scatches either.

There should not be carbon there...on the cylinder wall. On the piston skirt probably..but not on the cylinder wall. How is it going to get there with the piston rings scraping all the time?


**edit**

A newly honed..crosshatched cylinder.

Re: 'even when it will..'

I wanna see the info to back that up!!! Where's the data? Where's the research?

Unless...this is just one'a those times you simply have to 'believe'.

....kind'a like the toof fairy.

crikey the old cranky crabby crotchety geezer woke up!!

Well, the wd-40 and scotchbrite pad works for me.

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canyncarvr wrote:**edit**

A newly honed..crosshatched cylinder.

That's not a KDX cylinder.... not even plated!

Apples and oranges....

canyncarvr wrote:Re: 'even when it will..'

I wanna see the info to back that up!!! Where's the data? Where's the research?

Unless...this is just one'a those times you simply have to 'believe'.

....kind'a like the toof fairy.

Kinda like the florescent lights that YOU said would not and could not work unless it's at least 50* or what ev er? that actually work!

Or the 5.5hp air compressor wired on a non dedicated 20a circuit, that, OMG it works too
Just cuz it says 5.5hp on the front don't make it so, but you knew that right ?

Jeez, you guys been married to each other for very long?

Feels like it, sometimes

***edit***

When you been doing sumpthin for ten or so years...

Then along somebody comes and says "You can't do that" or "That's not possible" or "That won't work" blah fugging bla bla blah!

I kinda take offense to it, ya know

Just cuz I ride with him don't mean I gotta take in his horse **** like everybody else does like it's the fuggin gospel

I'm outa here, I gotta bike to put back together...

See ya!

Re:'Kinda like the florescent lights that YOU said would not and could not work unless it's at least 50* or what ev er? that actually work!'

Ha! Yeah...I was THERE...and SAW the strobing pieces of **** myself. If that's what you call 'actually work'..then that is certainly your problem.


Re: 'Or the 5.5hp air compressor wired on a non dedicated 20a circuit, that, OMG it works too.'

I was trying to do you a favor. You try sucking 35 amps (5.5 HP) through a #12 wire..and you WILL have a fire. Someday. Especially when using outlets that cost less than $1/ea.

J'ust cuz it says 5.5hp on the front don't make it so, but you knew that right ?'

Which was the entire point. If it's got a NEMA 5-15 plug on it and is supposed to run on 120VAC, it's NOT 5.5hp.


And, I suppose a plated cylinder..on a KDX even..is NOT honed in a crosshatch?



Happy? What a lameass comment..'Apples and oranges..'


'Never argue with a fool....'

..and certainly there is no point to it. One that is ignorant that searches for knowledge and appreciates it when it's found has some hope of redemption. One that is ignorant..and refuses to listen to anything about anything.... that's stupidity.


Another thing with no point to it (without even asking a question)..is engaging in a battle of wits with an unarmed person... with a vocabularly of 6.


Y'all are welcome to go have intercourse with yourselves.


Cheers!

just to point out, the scotchbrite and lube trick is ONLY to remove light aluminum deposits from the cylinder, not to hone it in any way. If the crosshatch is completely worn off, no amount of deglazing of any sort is gonna bring it back. At that point it NEEDS to be re-plated. However, scrubbing it real good with some scotchbrite or something else of the sort will not damage the plating (that stuff is HARD), but it WILL scrub away aluminum left behind by the piston allowing you to SEE if there is crosshatch remaining, and what condition it is in.

Yes it's honed and has a cross hatch .... If you get it looking like that with yer Scotchbrite... well, I'd be time for a new plating... correct?

Never argue with a fool?

I'm done arguing with him

Think I'm done riding with him too

I wanta divorce!

juliend wrote:..... the scotchbrite and lube trick is ONLY to remove light aluminum deposits from the cylinder, not to hone it in any way. If the crosshatch is completely worn off, no amount of deglazing of any sort is gonna bring it back. At that point it NEEDS to be re-plated. However, scrubbing it real good with some scotchbrite or something else of the sort will not damage the plating (that stuff is HARD), but it WILL scrub away aluminum left behind by the piston allowing you to SEE if there is crosshatch remaining, and what condition it is in.

What you are attempting to remove is the oil glazing which has formed on the cylinder wall. Green scotchbrite pad and WD-40 will work followed by a good hot water/laundry soap bath. If you have light area of aluminum deposits on your cylinder you have likely experienced a light seizing of your piston.

Since the cylinder bore is honed to a specific size then plated with a translucent plating followed with a second final honing; it is sometimes difficult to identify visually when the cylinder bore is worn. (due to the translucent plating allowing the underlying cylinder bore honing to show through the plating) A precision bore measurement or a new piston to wall clearance check will give you the necessary information.

You're picking at details. That oil glaze contains aluminum deposits. Me scrubbing away the aluminum deposits is not any different than you scrubbing away the oil glaze.

Varmint, shoot me an email.... juliendogg@msn.com

juliend wrote:You're picking at details. That oil glaze contains aluminum deposits. Me scrubbing away the aluminum deposits is not any different than you scrubbing away the oil glaze.

Sorry - just the engineer in me and the attention I pay to details.

Not at all, that was a good post and I do agree.