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Sorry that it did not work out. Pretty much all parts are one at a time.

On the Daystar site, they show a different model number for KDX than what I mentioned. Maybe the ones they show fit even better??

KIPS HELP - I have enjoyed the bike pulling strong down low... but its been very flat on top with no additional power. I thought that was just a KDX thing. But there is a youtube video shared here where it shows the correct function of a KIPS valve behind the cover. At revs its supposed to rotate, and mine doesn't really. Hardly moves at all. So I guess that explains the lack of top end power.

Not quite clear what I am in for as a do-it-yourself mission following the cyclepedia manual and a few good web pages I've seen linked here. The step by step instructions seem pretty good. But should I be thinking this is a take apart, clean, reassemble with correct timing mission.... or is something likely terribly broken? When you need parts, or if I find something broken along the way (o-rings, springs, etc.) for these old bikes where do you generally get them?

In most of the videos, the motor seems to be out of the frame. Can this be done without removing the engine? What really has to come off at a minimum so I know what gaskets to order in preparation to start?? I need help with the shopping list before I start to try to follow the steps in the manual. I am learning as I go, so please bear with me. Never had a liquid cooled bike before or things like KIPS or reeds.

Well....What better time to check on that piston. Every bike that I've purchased on Craigslist has been advertised with a "new top end". If it were me, I'd pull the cylinder and make it easier to get to. At a minimum you've gotta pull the head. Kips look a little scary in the manual but if you follow the well detailed directions, it's a breeze.

So head and exhaust pipe comes off at a minimum. Will there be any markings on the top of piston I can see with the head off that I should look for?

This is unknown territory for me. Is taking the cylinder off that much more work after the head?

What parts do I need to have on hand before I start? Certain gaskets, O-rings, springs, etc. Do they sell a KIPS gasket kit? Is there a certain part I should have on hand to replace what likely is broken, or is it an unknown until I open the thing up?

Is my 1997 KDX one of those with the aluminum valve rod things that have seized vs those new steel valve rod things?

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 77&t=15520

I'm sure there are other posts that reference the 220 piston on here. A top end gasket kit includes all you need.

I'm not aware of issues with 95+ kips. Other than becoming gummed up over time. Dirty job cleaning them, but not difficult. Make sure you get it timed correctly...again, it's not difficult just follow the manual.

You could likely just purchase the kips gaskets....idk. I always clean the kips in combination with piston replacement and use the new gaskets that come with the kit.

Pulling the cylinder is not that much more work. I pull the tank, pull the head, disconnect the kips, unbolt the cylinder, tap lightly with rubber mallet and remove

With a little research it will be a non issue 6 pack project

Started pulling things apart. Nervous but excited to be getting into some serious wrenching. Fork shim mod is underway. KIPS diagnosis happening. Started some disassemby to do my first top end job.

Question about reeds - never had a bike with reeds before. Here is what mine look like. Are they stock OEM reeds or some kown brand by the look of them? Seem t
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Looks like the stock ones. And in pretty good shape from that photo. Check for any cracks, broken bits, frayed ends. You also want to make sure that when they are sitting there they lie flat against the reed cage with no gaps.

Since I have the carb off, I am going to look at the jets. What size should I have for a bone stock KDX 220 now that everyone has figured this thing out?

The guy that just posted has a link to a meeting guide. Read that.

Moving forward - I just took off my top end on the path to cleaning the KIPS internals, and figuring out what condition bike I bought. Have never really done a top end on my own, and other than following the manual, I don't have a good feel for what I am looking at. Head looks better than I was probably expecting. I guess try to clean this? (somewhere I read oven cleaner or brake cleaner - and a brass brush?)

Cylinder looks really good I think. No bad scratching. The guy I bought it from told me it had a recent piston/top end. This looks good, right?

Piston concerns me though. The main reason I started this top end job is because the KIPS wasn't working, and the hypothesis is that it was timed wrong and not opening for the upper RPM range. So I am looking at this piston and thinking it has an extraordinary amount of carbon caked on top. Or is this normal?? Would this appearance make sense given a KIPS not timed right for some period of time? Would this confirm a new piston was installed at some point???

Better overall view of piston here. It looks to me like a new piston at some point (not OEM). What do you think??
Is it a big deal to pull the piston off, to clean it better? Do you light sand or just chemical clean?

Hi.

The head looks good. I can't see the cylinder too well.

The piston sides do not look old. The top shows a LOT of carbon.

I would think the internal engine conditions were off. Look around on Google images for piston wash and what it should look like

After I get the top end cleaned and reassembled (which will really require exploring this KIPS thing) my next task will be to understand jetting and make those adjustments. Holy heck, I am deep deep past my experience level and boldly going where I have never gone before! That Cyclepedia is good stuff!

I have never taken a piston off before. No special tools to remove and replace right? Just a pick to remove clip and anything special (or tips) to put that clip back??

How aggressive should I be in cleaning this carbon build-up off the crown of piston? I generally reach for something like a wire wheel and power tools. And then finish with chemicals....

A really small pick tool will get the circlips out. NEVER reuse a piston circlip. Install new clips.

Hopefully the piston pin will slide out easily. DO NOT hammer it out.

DO NOT clean the piston while it is still in the engine. I would use start soft, then work toward aggressive on the cleaning. Easy Off oven cleaner on just the carbon (caustic can damage aluminum if allowed to set). A toothbrush would be a good start, maybe some sandpaper to rub on the carbon. Wooden scraper (popsicle stick, spoon, etc.) before breaking out the jackhammers and needle scrapers.

Piston came out easy. Cleaned up well. Used brass wire brush on dremel where oven cleaner needed a little help. Good tip on the piston circlips. Thanks! Are those OEM order or do other people sell those circlips?

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Is it a stock piston, Wiseco or what?

Many people have had trouble with the stock piston cracking or shattering. Check on that.

If it is a Wiseco piston, I would use Wiseco circlips.

If you can not tell what kind of piston it is, post a pic of the top of the piston.

Piston is clean now. I don't know what brand it is. Will this pic help identify?

Here is side view.