1986/87 kdx200

[nedrowjoe]

I am new here. I was a longtime member at kzrider.com. had to sell my kz for bills. Back in the day i owned a 1991 kdx200, best bike I've ever owned. I bought a 1984 kdx250 with a bad crank bearing in pieces for 125 bucks, desperate to get back in the dirt. Got it home, before the purchase realized the engine numbers and placement weren't making sense for an 84 kdx250. I discovered the frame and engine corresponded with a 1986 kdx200. I also found out quickly the crank bearings weren't the problem. Which in hindsight, I kind of whished it were. I heard about the flywheel problems with old kdxs, sure enough the flywheel is junk, corroded and crunchy, blocking the crank from rotating. In the meantime I sold some hunting items to fund a rebuild. I found a 1987 kdx200 with a running motor, full suspension, front fender, and a good frame for 200. So I have 325 dollars invested, with 1 complete bike and a whole host of extra parts. I plan on posting my rebuild. I just wanted to make a post explaining where I came from, and that I feel like I am back to where I started as far as bikes go, and where I belong. I have dreamed of racing and grew up riding some gnarly terrain and steep pipelines in the northeast, I am really looking forward to attempt a vintage style harescramble I'm the 2017 season. I'm 32 and have 2 sons, the oldest is 4. I got my first bike at 4, I'm really excited at the prospect of showing my son what dirtbikes are all about on one of the best dirtbikes ever made. I'm sure you all will give me pointers along the way. I thank you in advance. I do have some preliminary questions though. Even though I have a running engine, hence a flywheel that is good, should I pick up and H model flywheel to have spare from eBay in case mine takes a crap and I have to do the fredette flywheel mod? Or since I plan on spending the winter rebuilding should I switch out the good flywheel I have with an H model and clock the stator 90 degrees? Are the H model flywheels that much more durable than the C MODEL i have? The last thing I want to is put the old girl together and have the good flywheel magnets let go after 5hours. Should I attempt to reinforce the stock magnets with epoxy(jb weld)?

[jeswinehart]

Yeah if you can secure the magnets from movement like I have been doing for sevral years on tecate model kawasaki trikes flywheel magnets problem will be for the most part eliminated.
The mounting screws backing out of stator mounting plate will be your only enemy. Most tecate owners know to loctite them in place once timing is dialed in.

http://s1122.photobucket.com/user/jeswi ... ort=3&o=45

[nedrowjoe]

So what do you use to secure magnets? And is it only along the perimeter as i see in the pic as what is orange? Or do you spread some internally? Also i have read that for the most part the 87 and 86 parts are interchangeable, but I also read 1 source that said 87 had an upgraded carb. Any truth to that? If I understand you are saying to run my stock flywheel but remove it. Lock tite the stator mounting hardware. And secure the magnets with an adhesive? I have a fly wheel puller coming Tuesday. Bigger problem is my wife only knows ii have 1 dirt bike in the garage. Can you help with that? Haha

[jeswinehart]

Lol ~ my wife knows how many machines I have so I am only ahead by 1 step
The material I use is a slow setting shore 72 high temp/high impact 2 part resin.
BJB'S product. TC878
I use a insert to block off inside and material flows top bottom and fills the void between magnets.
I often remove the magnets to sand blast housing clean (but not always). If I need to re glue I use seals all glue.

[nedrowjoe]

Sounds good, but do you have any pics of the spacer you use? How do I fab one. How bad is it If I get some on the inside of the magnets? And if I understand correctly you are talking about filling the gaps between the magnets on the inside, as well as dealing the edge, or border. Not so sure I want to mess with removal. I'm on a super right budget and have a feeling I'll be replacing all bearings, chain and sprockets and piston with hoaning best case scenario. Oh, also bumping up front fork oil to 15w and adding new seals. Good news is this thing will be a dream to work on compared to my old 4 cylinder, 4 carb, 4 stroke kz1000. Can't wait to smell that klotz techniplate!!!

[KDXGarage]

Welcome to the forums.

Did you get a flywheel remover that was a plate and a bolt that three bolts thread into? If not, you have the wrong one for a 1986 - 1988 KDX200.

1986 and 1987 carb is almost identical, Mikuni VM34SS. 1988 started Keihin (keen, clean, mean, Keihin) PWK35 with right side choke lever.

You may want to try 7.5 wt. oil and maybe find some stiffer springs.

Get the engine sorted first. Then worry about other stuff.

If you are on a tight budget, then run the stock rotor or get an H and reclock. E and H have a metal band on the inside not just open to the air. Magnets fall off (inward) and crash into the lighting / ignition coils).

[nedrowjoe]

All of it makes sense. Thank you. I rebuilt my kz forks with 15w and seemed fine. I can't afford new springs for this next year. When I can, I'll certainly tear down and do it again. Forks are pretty easy on my experience. A good way to get a bargain on a good bike with bad forks. People are mystified by rebulding forks. It's easy.

[nedrowjoe]

I got the puller that is a bolt that threads into the flywheel bolt, and a big reverse threaded bolt, son of a b*÷!h it sold for the 86 through 88 kdx200. Same one Ricky stator and numerous other reputable businesses sell a puller for it for. I may have to attempt to use a steering wheel puller then. So the E and H models have this metal band, and the Cs don't?

[jeswinehart]

Yes a steering wheel puller (crow foot looking type) is what I use. I've found I need to use fender washers on,the pulling bolts so the heads no get off alignment or slip right thru the slotted area of puller.
Also, a word of caution. Do not run your 3 bolts you will use to thread into flywheel any farther then needed. In other words don't run bolts into the coils underneath flywheel. Take your time tightning bolt,,,, be sure puller is pulling evenly.
You may hafta smack the pulling bolt to break it free.
I'll try to get some pictures posted of my set up I have used for years.

[jeswinehart]

This is the set up I use. The short alu spacer I place between crank end and pusher bolt on puller.
Other pic is how the inch long threaded part of bolts sit flush with inside.

[nedrowjoe]

So if I understand, I am not threading the pusher bolt into the flywheel bolt hole. Or do not need to. As long as I come up with some sort of spacer that sits in the home but not in contact with threads, so as to not damage the threads. The rented steering wheel puller with most likely come with a "pusher" bolt. Do you know the size of the 3 threaded holes in the flywheel housing? I will certainly be using a washer as you have to keep the bolts from pulling through. The 3 smaller bolts just need to be threaded in far enough not to strip the housing threads. The center "pusher" bolt is doing all the work?

[nedrowjoe]

Oh. And it's official I'll be a kdxrider soon enough. I picked up the 2nd 1987 kdx200 today for 175. More than I wanted to pay but it has a pristine DG header/expansion chamber, to go along with the DG silencer that came with the first bike I paid 125 for. The 87 has low compression, so much so my son can push the kick start with his hand. It has a new coil. And runs, so the flywheel should be good on that one. The rear u,attack appears to be in much better condition. Overall the parts that are there, from the bike I got today appear to be well taken care of. The KIPS is intact and looks very good. It also has New front and rear sprockets. The bars are tweaked, but I have a nice set of renthals on the first bike. The rims look to be in very good shape. Between the 2 bikes it's looking very good. Maybe a freshening of the top end, a new shifter shaft (why the hell does everyone end up welding these shifter shafts? What a bunch of half ass people in this world), and bearings all around, just because. I'll have a complete bike With spare carbs, cdi and coils. Engine minus the flywheel on 1, frames including unitrack, rims front and back, and forks. All for 300 bucks total. Being a cheapo is starting to pay off for me. I don't mind the work, I actually love doing it.

[KDXGarage]

Heck yeah! That is a great price.

Put a bolt in the end of the crankshaft with a set screw head so it has something for the bolt to push against. Do you use the big washers as the arms are not flat usually. The thread pitch is 6 mm x 1.0 mm.

As mentioned, DO NOT thread them in too far.

[jeswinehart]

I agree on the price of the parts bike with all the goodies mentioned ~ smoking good deal right there !

Yes, I use 2 washers for the strength and with the larger one it allows the puller to kinda float a wee bit so it can be centered better. I know I am not explaining that as well as I would like but if used like mine you will get the feel of it.

I am looking forward to seeing the old flywheel if possible. It may be useless to you but I can always use spare magnets if you decide to sell it .

john

[nedrowjoe]

Ok, so a socket that fits inside the flywheel bolt hole won't work? And I don't want to thread anything into the crankshaft, as that would inhibit the flywheel from coming off, wouldn't it? Also. Here is a crazy question for you, what is the proper orientation of the rear shock, one on the bikes I picked up has the 2 giant toothed threaded adjusters at the top, as I remember most of my bikes, and 1 has the threaded adjuster at the bottom. The one with the threaded adjuster at the bottom has a knob that I can finger turn as it clicks, which is what I assume as what kawasaki called the unit rack a 16 point adjustable shock. Either way which end should be up? And if anyone can give me a quick tutorial on uploading pics to the forum that would be lovely, as if like to document my junk to jewel transformation. (ok may be not jewel. I like a rough bike, but let's say mechanically sound)

[jeswinehart]

Yes, what ever you need to put in-between the pusher bolt on puller and the end of the crank that still allows for pusher bolt to press up against end of crank with out screwing up the crank end or the threads inside is what you are going to use.
As far as pictures,,, you may not be able to post any since you have not contributed a donation to the site.
But in case you can or when you are able to: You can upload to photo bucket, copy link and paste into your posting. Or when replying use the lower right "post reply" ,,,, not the quick posting to the right.
Once you have done your typing scroll down and look for "manage attachments". Click it and insert your saved pictures from camera, phone or computer. The pictures need to be sized very small but show up large in your posting.

[KDXGarage]

As best I remember, the manual states to use am 8 mm x 1.25 mm x 25 mm bolt to screw into the end of the crankshaft. The puller bolt touches the top of the bolt. One does not want the puller bolt to touch the actual crankshaft.

The correct orientation of the shock is body at the bottom for 1986 - 1988 shocks. The knob is for rebound adjustment. The knob on the reservoir is for compression.

Look at photobucket or other imsge hosting site, then put the link in your post.

[KDXGarage]

One that looks like this on top, not a regular hex head bolt.

[nedrowjoe]

Thank you, that clears everything up for me as far as the puller goes. And pardon my ignorance, but when you say "body" are you saying the threaded collars should be at the bottom? Out of the 2 bikes I have, the one oriented with the collars at the bottom seem to fit more naturally, if that makes sense.

[nedrowjoe]

And the DG pipe I got with this 2nd bike is immaculate, not 1 ding or small dent, has some surface rust not even any pitting. I saw the same pipe as a NOS item on fleabay for 265 plus 20 shipping. As much as I paid for both bikes