E-Series STEEL KIPS valve feedback?

Discussion specific to the 1989 - 1994 (E Series) KDX200 model sold in the USA
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Keystone
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E-Series STEEL KIPS valve feedback?

Post by Keystone »

Over one year since the release of these Steel KIPS valves. I ordered a brand new set of STEEL KIPS valves for my E-Series on June 2015. I have not installed them yet because I just did a fresh rebuild and installed brand new factory aluminum KIPS valves in the process. My E-Series now only has 250 miles (25 hours) since the rebuild so I am not quite ready for a fresh rebuild.
My question is, has anyone installed these NEW steel KIPS valves?
How are they holding up? What's your opinion of them so far?
Friedom
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Re: E-Series STEEL KIPS valve feedback?

Post by Friedom »

Keystone wrote:Over one year since the release of these Steel KIPS valves. I ordered a brand new set of STEEL KIPS valves for my E-Series on June 2015. I have not installed them yet because I just did a fresh rebuild and installed brand new factory aluminum KIPS valves in the process. My E-Series now only has 250 miles (25 hours) since the rebuild so I am not quite ready for a fresh rebuild.
My question is, has anyone installed these NEW steel KIPS valves?
How are they holding up? What's your opinion of them so far?
I've installed them on a 92 and a 93. They woke the 93 up nicely and worked great on the 92 until I blew a hole in the piston.
Both bikes came with the left kips valve sheared. You can have the old aluminum right side ones that didn't break yet if you want. Haha

"Good job, guys. "
Enduro burro
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E-Series STEEL KIPS valve feedback?

Post by Enduro burro »

I just ordered a set this Friday to replace two partially broken valves with sheared teeth. The bike ran great before I took off the head and found a broken left side valve . :cry: . I'm gonna try to clean the ports and install new valves with the head on . I will take some pictures and make a post maybe a YouTube video.
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TheGriz
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E-Series STEEL KIPS valve feedback?

Post by TheGriz »

I'm waiting on my cylinder to come back from replating and I'll be using these too. I'll try to take lots of pictures.
1987 KDX 80
1991 KDX 200
2005 GasGas EC250
2011 GasGas EC300
2008 KTM 300
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TheGriz
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E-Series STEEL KIPS valve feedback?

Post by TheGriz »

Enduro burro wrote:I just ordered a set this Friday to replace two partially broken valves with sheared teeth. The bike ran great before I took off the head and found a broken left side valve . :cry: . I'm gonna try to clean the ports and install new valves with the head on . I will take some pictures and make a post maybe a YouTube video.
Please make a video. Syncing them all up looks frustrating.
1987 KDX 80
1991 KDX 200
2005 GasGas EC250
2011 GasGas EC300
2008 KTM 300
Enduro burro
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E-Series STEEL KIPS valve feedback?

Post by Enduro burro »

I got my parts from motoduro uk it took about 10 days ! I think bdk is their supplier so It took an extra day. I was able to do everything with the jug still on ! I only removed the tank,shrouds,pipe,head,seat and kips valve covers. It's a bit hard removing the screw that holds the rod in place . I destroyed my Philips impact driver bit. And had to cut a slit with a mandrel on my cordless drill and use the flat impact driver . That was my only problem.

First, remove the main powervalve cap in the front . Don't remove the retaining screw on the side actuator rod quite yet! lossem it but keep it all the way the main valve front shaft has a flat spot that will be horizontal on top when the rod is fully engaged and you will see the main valve fully open. now that you got it in place pull the main power away from the motor and the bushing will come with it. Make sure you don't loose the wave washer if it's the older style . The main valve can't be removed with the motor on the bike just the bushing . Make sure u pull the main valve far enough so you can remove the rod.

You can now remove side rod screw and start to wiggle it out ,you gotta lift both smaller side valves before it slide out. Then just clean the ports with carb cleaner and a few qtips and you can reassemble it.

For reassembly the easiest way I found was, installing both small powervalves you just gotta worry about the left side valve timing at first so install the rod with the retaining screw and fully engage rod . The left valve has a dot that need to line upwatch the line on rod when fully engaged . It may take a bit off lifting the valve and spinning it to get it to line up its very easy to do. With the rod fully on still grab the front powervalves and slide it into place with the FLAT SPoT horizontal spot on top. It will fit perfectly in its grove and you will not be able to see it because the port is fully open . You can then make sure the washer is still on and slide the retainer bushing back in . The rod should stay fully engaged for the timing marks to work . Double check that the flat spot is where it should be and reinstall the front cap with a new o ring.the right side valve has and idler gear and is even easier to time .the right powervalves and idler gear have a dot that lines those two up. Put the bushings in and test the rod closed to open . You should be able to see the powervalves working like majic. Everytime the rod goes in the valves should be fully closed
Enduro burro
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E-Series STEEL KIPS valve feedback?

Post by Enduro burro »

Not my video but it helped . I just used the picture for the timing and everything is pretty self explanatory . I'm trying to load the picture that shows you everything including the correct alignment of the main valve. There is a thread on here that has the correct way to line up the e series valves except for one thing . He lines up his main valve wth a line on the rod . That is the incorrect way . You need to make sure the flat spot on the end of the main valve shaft is horizontal on top when the valve is fully engaged . It's has the small sliding c retainer clip grove right next to the flat spot on the end.
Scottrider
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E-Series STEEL KIPS valve feedback?

Post by Scottrider »

Enduro burro wrote:I got my parts from motoduro uk it took about 10 days ! I think bdk is their supplier so It took an extra day. I was able to do everything with the jug still on ! I only removed the tank,shrouds,pipe,head,seat and kips valve covers. It's a bit hard removing the screw that holds the rod in place . I destroyed my Philips impact driver bit. And had to cut a slit with a mandrel on my cordless drill and use the flat impact driver . That was my only problem.

First, remove the main powervalve cap in the front . Don't remove the retaining screw on the side actuator rod quite yet! lossem it but keep it all the way the main valve front shaft has a flat spot that will be horizontal on top when the rod is fully engaged and you will see the main valve fully open. now that you got it in place pull the main power away from the motor and the bushing will come with it. Make sure you don't loose the wave washer if it's the older style . The main valve can't be removed with the motor on the bike just the bushing . Make sure u pull the main valve far enough so you can remove the rod.

You can now remove side rod screw and start to wiggle it out ,you gotta lift both smaller side valves before it slide out. Then just clean the ports with carb cleaner and a few qtips and you can reassemble it.

For reassembly the easiest way I found was, installing both small powervalves you just gotta worry about the left side valve timing at first so install the rod with the retaining screw and fully engage rod . The left valve has a dot that need to line upwatch the line on rod when fully engaged . It may take a bit off lifting the valve and spinning it to get it to line up its very easy to do. With the rod fully on still grab the front powervalves and slide it into place with the FLAT SPoT horizontal spot on top. It will fit perfectly in its grove and you will not be able to see it because the port is fully open . You can then make sure the washer is still on and slide the retainer bushing back in . The rod should stay fully engaged for the timing marks to work . Double check that the flat spot is where it should be and reinstall the front cap with a new o ring.the right side valve has and idler gear and is even easier to time .the right powervalves and idler gear have a dot that lines those two up. Put the bushings in and test the rod closed to open . You should be able to see the powervalves working like majic. Everytime the rod goes in the valves should be fully closed
I asked Motoduro if they bought there KIPS from BDK and they said they make there own from stainless steel and do not buy them from BDK.
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