KDX newbie has KIPS questions

sthoward · Post by **sthoward** » 12:28 am Mar 08 2016

Hi KDX fans

I bought a DOA 1993 KDX200 and got it running. It starts and runs fine at low and mid RPM, but it doesn't have the power I was expecting at high RPM.

When I rev the engine, I can see the KIPS lever move about 45 degrees. Is that about the right amount of movement?

I took off the pipe and looked into the exhaust port while moving the KIPS lever by hand. I could see the main and left valves moving but the right valve is not moving. So I think it's pretty clear my right valve and/or the shaft is damaged.

Can I remove and replace the KIPS components without removing the engine from the frame? The main valve is pretty close to the frame.

I found the steel valves at BDK, but what are my options if I need to replace the shaft? It looks like it's been discontinued by Kawasaki.

Thanks in advance for your help!

sthoward · Post by **sthoward** » 02:56 am Mar 08 2016

Umm... OK I was guessing on the 45 degrees, it's about 1/2 of that...

So I pulled the cylinder head off and found that the upper shaft of the right KIPS valve is broken. The idler is rotated so it is not engaged with the rod, hence the valve was not moving with the rod. Teeth are all in good shape so it looks like I only need a new valve.

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 07:43 am Mar 08 2016

You'll just have to take the head and cylinder off of the bottom end.

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 07:45 am Mar 08 2016

Careful with the kips valve arm. Support the arm when removing the nut AND it is right hand thread.

eprovenzano · Post by **eprovenzano** » 08:26 am Mar 08 2016

sthoward wrote:Umm... OK I was guessing on the 45 degrees, it's about 1/2 of that...

So I pulled the cylinder head off and found that the upper shaft of the right KIPS valve is broken. The idler is rotated so it is not engaged with the rod, hence the valve was not moving with the rod. Teeth are all in good shape so it looks like I only need a new valve.

Many of us have replaced the KIPS valves (Left / Right & idler) with replacements from BDK Racing because the left one is usually broken. I'm sure a lot of us (myself included) have a spare right valve. I know I'm not going to be reusing my old right KIPS valve. I'm not sure where you're located, but I'd be happy to send it to you for the cost of shipping. Or if you plan on keeping the bike and never want to be concerned with the KIPS valves again... Contact Brock at BDK racing and order a set of stainless steel KIPS valves.

Chilly · Post by **Chilly** » 10:12 am Mar 08 2016

I had the same issue. And yes you can order OEM parts. Go to rocky mountain atv website and look under the oem parts. There will be a list of parts and diagram of the cylinder.

sthoward · Post by **sthoward** » 11:10 am Mar 08 2016

Thanks all. I especially appreciate the offer of shipping your extra valve!

I did find ONE right valve in stock at Rocky Mountain, so I ordered it along with a couple of gaskets to put her back together.

Do I need to take the cylinder off to finish the job?

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 11:24 am Mar 08 2016

Second for an extra right kips valve available here. Upgraded to BDK. Bike pulls like nobody's biz.

Fun Wheel Drive

david · Post by **david** » 03:53 pm Mar 08 2016

bultaco4ever wrote:Careful with the kips valve arm. Support the arm when removing the nut AND it is right hand thread.

LEFT hand thread.

eprovenzano · Post by **eprovenzano** » 04:58 pm Mar 08 2016

sthoward wrote: Do I need to take the cylinder off to finish the job?

No its not required, but it would be so much easier to do it on the workbench...

sthoward · Post by **sthoward** » 05:38 pm Mar 08 2016

I found this posting http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ve#p144044 which explains how to sync up the valves when installing them. Sounds like the cylinder is coming off...

sthoward · Post by **sthoward** » 05:42 pm Mar 09 2016

So the right KIPS valve was stuck in the closed position, but the middle and left valves were working as expected. Is that enough to account for the poor power output at high RPM? Or should I be looking for something else?

Compression was 150 PSI and the cylinder & piston don't look too bad, so I think my top end is OK.

david · Post by **david** » 04:10 pm Mar 10 2016

Yes, you have the typical broken KIPS.

sthoward · Post by **sthoward** » 12:42 am Mar 11 2016

david wrote:Yes, you have the typical broken KIPS.

Thanks, I feel better.

The new valve will be here tomorrow or Monday - can't wait to get it back together!

bultaco4ever · Post by **bultaco4ever** » 06:21 am Mar 11 2016

Thanks to David...I meant left hand thread.

KDXFZRRD · Post by **KDXFZRRD** » 07:31 am Mar 11 2016

It's not a matter of "if" the stock valves will break, it's only a matter of "when".

sthoward · Post by **sthoward** » 11:23 am Mar 11 2016

The left and center valves were in decent shape so I'm hoping to get a couple more years out of them before switching to the steel valves.

sthoward · Post by **sthoward** » 11:32 am Mar 15 2016

Got her back together last night with the new valve. Runs much better! Thanks all for your help.

sthoward · Post by **sthoward** » 01:38 pm Mar 17 2016

So I took the bike out for a short test ride today. This old girl RIPS! Smiles per dollar ratio is through the roof!

Forgot to mention this earlier - when I took the top end off to replace the KIPS valve, I found a piece of paper towel stuffed in the coolant hose fitting on the cylinder head. NO coolant was reaching the head. The head had gotten so hot that the back side of the paper towel was BURNT. Yeah, black and crispy like someone had taken a lighter to it. I figure somebody put it in there last time they had the bike apart and forgot it was there when they re-assembled it. REALLY GLAD I tore the bike down!

sthoward · Post by **sthoward** » 01:56 pm Mar 17 2016

I just noticed that I'm missing the little spacer (looks like a circlip) that goes on the center power valve. Part no is 92026-1333 on the fiche. Anyone know where I can get one of those?

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