E series KIPS valve

Discussion specific to the 1989 - 1994 (E Series) KDX200 model sold in the USA
Keystone
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E series KIPS valve

Post by Keystone »

Also, when disassembling, REMEMBER the exhaust valve operating shaft lever nut has reverse threads! (page 4-6 service manual). AND the shaft lever (the post that this reverse nut sits on top of) MUST be supported while twisting this nut off. I firmly grasped the shaft lever with a pair of padded vive grips to keep it from twisting while I turned the top nut (nut #B on page 4-6) off. This shaft will want to turn as you try to get that nut off, don't let it turn.

AND... be careful you don't round off the phillips head retaining screw (screw #C on page 4-6). It can be a bitch. I had to lightly tap it with a impact screwdriver to get it to turn out. I replaced it with a brand new one when I reassembled.
Friedom
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Re: E series KIPS valve

Post by Friedom »

Keystone wrote:A '93 E-Series! you'll love it. I was in the same boat as you when I bought my '93. Previous owner had neglected to do much maintenance. The first thing I did was remove the cylinder to inspect the KIPS because of all the stories I've heard about them shredding. First time ever for me working on an engine of any kind. Mine were in great shape, maybe I got lucky.

Don't let anyone tell you that you can inspect the KIPS without removing the top end cylinder jug, you cannot. There are no secret tricks. Yes, you may be able to see if they are functioning without removing the top end, but you cannot inspect the important aspect of these KIPS valves, the teeth, without removing the top end. It is possible the KIPS valves are functioning with broken or worn teeth.

Buy a torque wrench and a special "motion pro" box end wrench to re-install the jug. Throw in a new weisco piston and rings while you are in there. Look into buying the new STEEL KIPS valves that have recently been developed. The original OEM KIPS are still available if you really want.

Nothing is too difficult on this bike, especially with an owners manual. Just don't make the mistake of putting it back together "guessing" it is correct. Make sure.

You will LOVE this bike.
Thanks for this post. I'm rebuilding a 92 (engine split, frame repaint, the whole 9 yards), and was starting to really question my decision to do so now that I've got $400 in parts waiting to install and plenty more to go on service. You've renewed my hope a little!
Keystone wrote:Thanks for the heads-up on that Gotanubike. I edited my post to explain to others what you brought up, good catch!

You can see from the photo why the manual tells you to pull out the main exhaust valve 1/2" and then remove/insert the operating rod (on the '89 -91') and why this procedure in the service manual will NOT work (on the '92-'94) - would have been nice if the '92-'94 suppliments mentioned that, or did they and I missed it?.


This is Gotanubikes main exhaust valve, they were installed in the 1989, 1990, 1991 E Series KDX200: - correct?
Gotanubike wrote: Image

And this is my 1993 main exhaust valve, they were installed in the 1992, 1993 and 1994 E Series KDX200: - correct?

Image

Image

Image

Image

Now I know why my 1989 service manual does not explain how to properly install my 1993 main exhaust valve. Both the manual and cyclepedia do not explain that the main exhaust valve was changed in the E-series after 3 years, and neither give any explaination on how to install the updated valves in the following 3 years. I have the 1989 kawasaki service manual and also the 1993 suppliment and it does NOT explain the changes made to the main exhaust valve.

Now, I'd like to know why they were changed, there had to be a good reason and it surely wasnt for ease of installation!. Are there more KIPS failures in earlier models than later models? Could the earlier main exhaust valves have been causing stress and premature wear on the left powervalve? If so, the KIPS problem on the E-series might be solved by replacing the old original main exhaust valve with the new redesigned one.
gereonb
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Re: E series KIPS valve

Post by gereonb »

My 1990 E1 has the main valve pictured directly above this post.
Friedom
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Re: E series KIPS valve

Post by Friedom »

My 92 broke the left valve, and that's with the newer setup. I have steel valves on the way.
Friedom
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Re: E series KIPS valve

Post by Friedom »

Fwiw, anyone who needs a stock 92 right valve I have one!

Joy to the world!
bultaco4ever
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Re: E series KIPS valve

Post by bultaco4ever »

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/gallery/ ... age_id=532

Here's what my broken aluminum KIPS valves looked like......I love the stainless steel valves that I got from BDK.

532
El Gran Jamon
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E series KIPS valve

Post by El Gran Jamon »

Ok,
Good threead, am dissembling my bike no2, but cwnnot get the main valve out. Manual simply states pull rod out best you can and pull the main valve out flush , lift up idler, valves and pull out he rod. It appears my 1990 has the updated valve, I see a hemisphere looking thing rotate. Am I safe to pull the cylinder off and fix it on the bench?
eprovenzano
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Re: E series KIPS valve

Post by eprovenzano »

Most definitely. It's much easier to repair/ clean the valves on the bench


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1991 KDX basket case... being rebuilt
2001 KTM EXC 380... two stroke heaven
2000 KTM EXC 300, son's
1993 Kawaski Bayou 400 4x4
2008 Yamaha Vstar 1100 Silverado
El Gran Jamon
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Re: E series KIPS valve

Post by El Gran Jamon »

Thanks, got the cylinder out, screw off, still cannot get rod to move enough to uncover the main valve for removal. Will look again and pull circlip off and see how it goes, take main valve housing out first?
eprovenzano
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Re: E series KIPS valve

Post by eprovenzano »

I had the same issue... I doubt mine had ever been out. Be persistent it will eventually come out...


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1991 KDX basket case... being rebuilt
2001 KTM EXC 380... two stroke heaven
2000 KTM EXC 300, son's
1993 Kawaski Bayou 400 4x4
2008 Yamaha Vstar 1100 Silverado
bultaco4ever
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Re: E series KIPS valve

Post by bultaco4ever »

doesn't the manual say to pull the center valve out until a line is exposed. Then pull the main rod out. You may have to rotate the rod so that the splines don't touch. Like those wooden puzzle boxes.
ke6fxk
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E series KIPS valve

Post by ke6fxk »

Thanks so much, BIG BIG help.
cjessee
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E series KIPS valve

Post by cjessee »

thank you all again for sharing, I have an 89 and had the same issues with no information on the main exhaust valve initial position but noticed it only went in one way but was different than others until reading this form where several folks contributed to key answers, so thanks all, so I just payed cyclepedia for the 89 details and it had everything I was looking for on my 89. On my way to get a wave washer now to insure we get no slop in my main exhaust valve. I also notice that my bike didn't have this wave washer on the main exhaust valve (between the exhaust valve and bushing on the main) when I removed the KIPS so I am trying to complete it with all the parts! Glad I took pictures of the removal now though, after seeing all your documentation and photos on this forum. It appears the washer works as a spacer to keep the exhaust valve engaged and pushed all the way in on the 89.I ordered new metal KIPS from England BDK thank you and feel very lucky to have this form to continue to provide the information that is key to getting this right
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Re: E series KIPS valve

Post by KDXGarage »

Good job. Post a few pics when you can.
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net. :bravo:
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
hi-def
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Re: E series KIPS valve

Post by hi-def »

Just want to say thanks for the instructions, nice and clear, took 2 mins and all working as it should :grin:
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