Need help with needle or ????
- canuckhybrid125
- Supporting Member
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- Location: CANADA
Need help with needle or ????
Guys I have been fooling around with my jetting after rebuild,I have all RB mods plus the 200 is bored to 220.I am getting alot of spooge.Here is what the bike is running on now,im at sea level around 60-80F degrees.Main 150 pilot 38 needle at second slot now which I have'nt tried yet.I just had a look at the needle and it says BEL any help would be great.
Thanks
PS I dont know where or how to buy different needles.
Thanks
PS I dont know where or how to buy different needles.
It Is What It Is
2000 KX KDX Hybrid
2006 KX 100
2004 TTR 125 LE
2010 KTM 300
2000 KX KDX Hybrid
2006 KX 100
2004 TTR 125 LE
2010 KTM 300
- scheckaet
- KDXRider.net
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- Location: edmond oklahoma
Some spooge is normal.
local dealer should be able to hook you up with needles.
Have you jetted the bike properly? check the jetting section and how to jet.
Have you repacked your silencer recently?
38 on the pilot sounds a bit lean but I'm no expert with 220. Ask RBD, might be able to tell you what to start with.
local dealer should be able to hook you up with needles.
Have you jetted the bike properly? check the jetting section and how to jet.
Have you repacked your silencer recently?
38 on the pilot sounds a bit lean but I'm no expert with 220. Ask RBD, might be able to tell you what to start with.
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
- Indawoods
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Didn't Ron send you a DEK and a CEK with the carb mod? BEL is way off....
With a 200 bored to a 220, the porting will be off.....
With a 200 bored to a 220, the porting will be off.....
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- canuckhybrid125
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 137
- Joined: 06:49 am Apr 09 2009
- Country:
- Location: CANADA
This is running down my pipe type spooge,Ron said try 150 main and 40 pilot,which I dont have yet.But the bike is smoking like a fog machine right now at 1/4 and half throttle.Could it be because of the fresh rebuild?
Last edited by canuckhybrid125 on 09:09 pm May 13 2010, edited 1 time in total.
It Is What It Is
2000 KX KDX Hybrid
2006 KX 100
2004 TTR 125 LE
2010 KTM 300
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2004 TTR 125 LE
2010 KTM 300
- canuckhybrid125
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- scheckaet
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then it's not. Ron didn't send you any other needle and / or jetting recommendation?
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
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- canuckhybrid125
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>|QBB<[/url]
[img][img]http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee35 ... /005-3.jpg[/img][/img]
PO had it done,it has the rb fuel screw divider plate and slide,plus PO told me the head was done.juliend wrote:Did YOU have the RB mods done, or did the PO tell you that HE did? I would question this.
[img][img]http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee35 ... /005-3.jpg[/img][/img]
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2006 KX 100
2004 TTR 125 LE
2010 KTM 300
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2006 KX 100
2004 TTR 125 LE
2010 KTM 300
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- canuckhybrid125
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- canuckhybrid125
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- Indawoods
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That's jetting....
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- canuckhybrid125
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 137
- Joined: 06:49 am Apr 09 2009
- Country:
- Location: CANADA
- Indawoods
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- Posts: 9951
- Joined: 09:59 am Jun 12 2003
- Country:
- Location: Midwest
A correctly jetted carb makes a tremendous difference in the torque, midrange pull, top-end pull, and over-rev of your engine. If you have
never jetted your bike correctly, you will almost certainly gain some performance at some point in the bike's powerband. A cleanly jetted pilot
circuit can be the difference between having to clutch the bike out of a turn or not. The needle can make all the difference in the world for the
power of the machine in most situations, as it controls the throttle range that most riders spend most of their time using. A correctly sized main jet
could mean the difference between being able to rev out high enough to not have to shift one more time at the end of the straight, or the power
falling flat on top and requiring you to make that extra shift.
Are you fouling plugs? Many people will tell you all sorts of band-aid fixes,
from running less oil, to running a hotter plug. Both are incorrect fixes for plug fouling. It's all in the jetting.
The only way to know what jetting changes you will need is by trial-and-error. No one can give you jetting specs, because every bike is different,
every rider has a different style, and jetting is totally weather dependent. Unless the person telling you what jets to use is riding an identical bike,
on the exact same track, at the same time, his recommendations are meaningless.
Jetting is fairly simple, and is a useful skill to learn if you ride a two-stroke and want it to perform at it's best.
It's very important that you start with the pilot circuit. The reason is simple. The pilot circuit affects the entire throttle range. When you are at
full throttle, the main jet is the primary fuel metering device, but the pilot is still delivering fuel as well, adding to the total amount of fuel that your
engine is receiving.
Before you start to rejet your bike, you need a clean air filter, a fresh
plug (actually you need several plugs to do plug-chop tests for the main jet), and fresh fuel. One important detail: Make sure the engine is in good
mechanical condition. If your engine has a worn top-end, fix it first. Trying to jet a worn out engine is a waste of time. The same goes for
reeds that don't seal properly, and a silencer that needs re-packing. Worn reeds will mimic rich jetting, and worn rings will mimic lean jetting.
Before you start the jet testing, install a fresh plug. Set the float level to the proper specs, an incorrect float height will affect your jetting all
across the throttle range.
Warm the bike completely, and shut it off.
As already stated, start with the pilot circuit. Turn the airscrew all the way in, then turn it out 1.5 turns to start. Start the engine, and turn the idle
screw in until you get a slightly fast idle, or hold the throttle just barely cracked, to keep the engine idleing. Turn the airscrew slowly in, and then
out, until you find the point where the idle is fastest. Stop there. Do not open the screw any farther, or your throttle response will be flat and
mushy, and the bike may even bog. This is only the starting point, we will still have to tune the airscrew for the best response.
Now is the time to determine if you have the correct pilot installed in your carb. The airscrew position determines this for you, making it very
simple. If your airscrew is less than 1 turn from closed, you need a larger pilot jet. If it is more than 2.5 turns from closed, you need a smaller pilot jet.
Once you have determined (and installed it if it's necessary to change it) the correct pilot jet size, and tuned the airscrew for the fastest idle, it's
time to tune the airscrew for the best throttle response. Again, make sure the bike is at full operating temperature. Set the idle back down (the bike
should still idle, despite what you read in the Moto Tabloids), and ride the bike, using closed-to-1/4 throttle transitions. Turn the airscrew slightly in
either direction until you find the point that gives you the best response when cracking the throttle open. Most bikes are sensitive to changes as
small as 1/8 of a turn.
The airscrew is not a set-it-and-leave-it adjustment. You have to
constantly re-adjust the airscrew to compensate for changing outdoor temps and humidity. An airscrew setting that is perfect in the cool
morning air will likely be too rich in the heat of the mid-day.
Now, it's time to work on the needle. Mark the throttle grip at 1/4 and 3/4
openings. Ride the bike between these two marks. If the bike bogs for a second before responding to throttle, lower the clip (raising the needle) a
notch at a time until the engine picks up smoothly. If the bike sputters or sounds rough when giving it throttle, raise the clip (lowering the needle)
until it runs cleanly. There isn't really any way to test the needle other than by feel, but it's usually quite obvious when it's right or wrong.
Last is the main jet. The main jet affects from 1/2 to full throttle. The easiest way to test it is to do a throttle-chop test. With the bike fully
warmed up, find a long straight, and install a fresh plug. Start the engine, and do a full-throttle run down the straight, through all gears. As soon as
the bike tops out, pull the clutch in, and kill the engine, coasting to a stop. Remove the plug, and look deep down inside the threads, at the base of
the insulator. If it is white or gray, the main is too lean. If it is dark brown or black, the main is too rich. The correct color is a medium-dark mocha
brown or tan.
Once you have a little bit of experience with jetting changes, and you
start to learn the difference in feel between "rich" and "lean", you'll begin to learn, just from the sound of the exhaust and the feel of the power, not
only if the bike is running rich or lean, but even which one of the carb circuits is the culprit.
The slide is also a tuning variable for jetting, but slides are very expensive, and few bikes need different slides, so we won't go into that
here.
never jetted your bike correctly, you will almost certainly gain some performance at some point in the bike's powerband. A cleanly jetted pilot
circuit can be the difference between having to clutch the bike out of a turn or not. The needle can make all the difference in the world for the
power of the machine in most situations, as it controls the throttle range that most riders spend most of their time using. A correctly sized main jet
could mean the difference between being able to rev out high enough to not have to shift one more time at the end of the straight, or the power
falling flat on top and requiring you to make that extra shift.
Are you fouling plugs? Many people will tell you all sorts of band-aid fixes,
from running less oil, to running a hotter plug. Both are incorrect fixes for plug fouling. It's all in the jetting.
The only way to know what jetting changes you will need is by trial-and-error. No one can give you jetting specs, because every bike is different,
every rider has a different style, and jetting is totally weather dependent. Unless the person telling you what jets to use is riding an identical bike,
on the exact same track, at the same time, his recommendations are meaningless.
Jetting is fairly simple, and is a useful skill to learn if you ride a two-stroke and want it to perform at it's best.
It's very important that you start with the pilot circuit. The reason is simple. The pilot circuit affects the entire throttle range. When you are at
full throttle, the main jet is the primary fuel metering device, but the pilot is still delivering fuel as well, adding to the total amount of fuel that your
engine is receiving.
Before you start to rejet your bike, you need a clean air filter, a fresh
plug (actually you need several plugs to do plug-chop tests for the main jet), and fresh fuel. One important detail: Make sure the engine is in good
mechanical condition. If your engine has a worn top-end, fix it first. Trying to jet a worn out engine is a waste of time. The same goes for
reeds that don't seal properly, and a silencer that needs re-packing. Worn reeds will mimic rich jetting, and worn rings will mimic lean jetting.
Before you start the jet testing, install a fresh plug. Set the float level to the proper specs, an incorrect float height will affect your jetting all
across the throttle range.
Warm the bike completely, and shut it off.
As already stated, start with the pilot circuit. Turn the airscrew all the way in, then turn it out 1.5 turns to start. Start the engine, and turn the idle
screw in until you get a slightly fast idle, or hold the throttle just barely cracked, to keep the engine idleing. Turn the airscrew slowly in, and then
out, until you find the point where the idle is fastest. Stop there. Do not open the screw any farther, or your throttle response will be flat and
mushy, and the bike may even bog. This is only the starting point, we will still have to tune the airscrew for the best response.
Now is the time to determine if you have the correct pilot installed in your carb. The airscrew position determines this for you, making it very
simple. If your airscrew is less than 1 turn from closed, you need a larger pilot jet. If it is more than 2.5 turns from closed, you need a smaller pilot jet.
Once you have determined (and installed it if it's necessary to change it) the correct pilot jet size, and tuned the airscrew for the fastest idle, it's
time to tune the airscrew for the best throttle response. Again, make sure the bike is at full operating temperature. Set the idle back down (the bike
should still idle, despite what you read in the Moto Tabloids), and ride the bike, using closed-to-1/4 throttle transitions. Turn the airscrew slightly in
either direction until you find the point that gives you the best response when cracking the throttle open. Most bikes are sensitive to changes as
small as 1/8 of a turn.
The airscrew is not a set-it-and-leave-it adjustment. You have to
constantly re-adjust the airscrew to compensate for changing outdoor temps and humidity. An airscrew setting that is perfect in the cool
morning air will likely be too rich in the heat of the mid-day.
Now, it's time to work on the needle. Mark the throttle grip at 1/4 and 3/4
openings. Ride the bike between these two marks. If the bike bogs for a second before responding to throttle, lower the clip (raising the needle) a
notch at a time until the engine picks up smoothly. If the bike sputters or sounds rough when giving it throttle, raise the clip (lowering the needle)
until it runs cleanly. There isn't really any way to test the needle other than by feel, but it's usually quite obvious when it's right or wrong.
Last is the main jet. The main jet affects from 1/2 to full throttle. The easiest way to test it is to do a throttle-chop test. With the bike fully
warmed up, find a long straight, and install a fresh plug. Start the engine, and do a full-throttle run down the straight, through all gears. As soon as
the bike tops out, pull the clutch in, and kill the engine, coasting to a stop. Remove the plug, and look deep down inside the threads, at the base of
the insulator. If it is white or gray, the main is too lean. If it is dark brown or black, the main is too rich. The correct color is a medium-dark mocha
brown or tan.
Once you have a little bit of experience with jetting changes, and you
start to learn the difference in feel between "rich" and "lean", you'll begin to learn, just from the sound of the exhaust and the feel of the power, not
only if the bike is running rich or lean, but even which one of the carb circuits is the culprit.
The slide is also a tuning variable for jetting, but slides are very expensive, and few bikes need different slides, so we won't go into that
here.
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- canuckhybrid125
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 137
- Joined: 06:49 am Apr 09 2009
- Country:
- Location: CANADA
Thanks IndaIndawoods wrote:A correctly jetted carb makes a tremendous difference in the torque, midrange pull, top-end pull, and over-rev of your engine. If you have
never jetted your bike correctly, you will almost certainly gain some performance at some point in the bike's powerband. A cleanly jetted pilot
circuit can be the difference between having to clutch the bike out of a turn or not. The needle can make all the difference in the world for the
power of the machine in most situations, as it controls the throttle range that most riders spend most of their time using. A correctly sized main jet
could mean the difference between being able to rev out high enough to not have to shift one more time at the end of the straight, or the power
falling flat on top and requiring you to make that extra shift.
Are you fouling plugs? Many people will tell you all sorts of band-aid fixes,
from running less oil, to running a hotter plug. Both are incorrect fixes for plug fouling. It's all in the jetting.
The only way to know what jetting changes you will need is by trial-and-error. No one can give you jetting specs, because every bike is different,
every rider has a different style, and jetting is totally weather dependent. Unless the person telling you what jets to use is riding an identical bike,
on the exact same track, at the same time, his recommendations are meaningless.
Jetting is fairly simple, and is a useful skill to learn if you ride a two-stroke and want it to perform at it's best.
It's very important that you start with the pilot circuit. The reason is simple. The pilot circuit affects the entire throttle range. When you are at
full throttle, the main jet is the primary fuel metering device, but the pilot is still delivering fuel as well, adding to the total amount of fuel that your
engine is receiving.
Before you start to rejet your bike, you need a clean air filter, a fresh
plug (actually you need several plugs to do plug-chop tests for the main jet), and fresh fuel. One important detail: Make sure the engine is in good
mechanical condition. If your engine has a worn top-end, fix it first. Trying to jet a worn out engine is a waste of time. The same goes for
reeds that don't seal properly, and a silencer that needs re-packing. Worn reeds will mimic rich jetting, and worn rings will mimic lean jetting.
Before you start the jet testing, install a fresh plug. Set the float level to the proper specs, an incorrect float height will affect your jetting all
across the throttle range.
Warm the bike completely, and shut it off.
As already stated, start with the pilot circuit. Turn the airscrew all the way in, then turn it out 1.5 turns to start. Start the engine, and turn the idle
screw in until you get a slightly fast idle, or hold the throttle just barely cracked, to keep the engine idleing. Turn the airscrew slowly in, and then
out, until you find the point where the idle is fastest. Stop there. Do not open the screw any farther, or your throttle response will be flat and
mushy, and the bike may even bog. This is only the starting point, we will still have to tune the airscrew for the best response.
Now is the time to determine if you have the correct pilot installed in your carb. The airscrew position determines this for you, making it very
simple. If your airscrew is less than 1 turn from closed, you need a larger pilot jet. If it is more than 2.5 turns from closed, you need a smaller pilot jet.
Once you have determined (and installed it if it's necessary to change it) the correct pilot jet size, and tuned the airscrew for the fastest idle, it's
time to tune the airscrew for the best throttle response. Again, make sure the bike is at full operating temperature. Set the idle back down (the bike
should still idle, despite what you read in the Moto Tabloids), and ride the bike, using closed-to-1/4 throttle transitions. Turn the airscrew slightly in
either direction until you find the point that gives you the best response when cracking the throttle open. Most bikes are sensitive to changes as
small as 1/8 of a turn.
The airscrew is not a set-it-and-leave-it adjustment. You have to
constantly re-adjust the airscrew to compensate for changing outdoor temps and humidity. An airscrew setting that is perfect in the cool
morning air will likely be too rich in the heat of the mid-day.
Now, it's time to work on the needle. Mark the throttle grip at 1/4 and 3/4
openings. Ride the bike between these two marks. If the bike bogs for a second before responding to throttle, lower the clip (raising the needle) a
notch at a time until the engine picks up smoothly. If the bike sputters or sounds rough when giving it throttle, raise the clip (lowering the needle)
until it runs cleanly. There isn't really any way to test the needle other than by feel, but it's usually quite obvious when it's right or wrong.
Last is the main jet. The main jet affects from 1/2 to full throttle. The easiest way to test it is to do a throttle-chop test. With the bike fully
warmed up, find a long straight, and install a fresh plug. Start the engine, and do a full-throttle run down the straight, through all gears. As soon as
the bike tops out, pull the clutch in, and kill the engine, coasting to a stop. Remove the plug, and look deep down inside the threads, at the base of
the insulator. If it is white or gray, the main is too lean. If it is dark brown or black, the main is too rich. The correct color is a medium-dark mocha
brown or tan.
Once you have a little bit of experience with jetting changes, and you
start to learn the difference in feel between "rich" and "lean", you'll begin to learn, just from the sound of the exhaust and the feel of the power, not
only if the bike is running rich or lean, but even which one of the carb circuits is the culprit.
The slide is also a tuning variable for jetting, but slides are very expensive, and few bikes need different slides, so we won't go into that
here.
It Is What It Is
2000 KX KDX Hybrid
2006 KX 100
2004 TTR 125 LE
2010 KTM 300
2000 KX KDX Hybrid
2006 KX 100
2004 TTR 125 LE
2010 KTM 300
- Indawoods
- Creator and Founder
- Posts: 9951
- Joined: 09:59 am Jun 12 2003
- Country:
- Location: Midwest
All or none baby!
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- scheckaet
- KDXRider.net
- Posts: 3740
- Joined: 12:09 am Nov 10 2005
- Country:
- Location: edmond oklahoma
do a search and you shall find...
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1156
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1156
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
- canuckhybrid125
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 137
- Joined: 06:49 am Apr 09 2009
- Country:
- Location: CANADA
-
- Member
- Posts: 66
- Joined: 08:53 am May 29 2009
- Country:
- Location: Charleston, SC
Inda..i just read the book you just wrote..it really helped me out!...iv been having the same problems with my bike..fouling plugs and running really rich... so thanks for the instructions!!
RACING - "Because team sports are for homos"
'99/'00 KX 200 - head turner
'05 DRZ 400 SM - knee dragger
'06 CRF450R - SOLD
'99/'00 KX 200 - head turner
'05 DRZ 400 SM - knee dragger
'06 CRF450R - SOLD