RB Designs

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 03:16 pm Dec 03 2004

Help! I need the website address for RB Designs. I googled it and came up with everything but. Thanks!

Post by **Indawoods** » 03:20 pm Dec 03 2004

http://www.rb-designs.com/

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 03:56 pm Dec 03 2004

Ah, YES! The "-". that's what I was missing! Thanks!

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 11:27 pm Dec 03 2004

You must be lazy....I just read that somewhere...............;)

I see on google that he now is making diabetic socks!!! What a guy!!

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 01:57 am Dec 04 2004

I am NOT lazy, I just can't figure out how to use the search feature here. Either that or I need to upgrade my account so I can do searches.

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 08:41 pm Dec 04 2004

skipro3 wrote: Could you put up their contact information? I'm lazy!

You said it...not me! ;)

Post by **Indawoods** » 07:54 am Dec 06 2004

Ripped my carb off and getting ready to send it to Ron... Did he raise his prices? Seems to me he used to be cheaper...

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 11:08 am Dec 06 2004

From this page: http://www.rb-designs.com/kdx200-220.htm his price of $165 remains the same ever since I've been viewing his site.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 11:21 am Dec 06 2004

I remember $165 as the same old price as always.

Post by **Indawoods** » 11:33 am Dec 06 2004

I musta been dreamin' about something else then....

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 03:28 pm Dec 06 2004

Pay attention to his shipping instructions!

Like...no hoses. Clean would be a good thing.

Yeah...the price has been the same for several years.

Besides, 'cheaper' isn't what you're after......I hope.

Besides THAT...throw in another $20 for a finger adjustable air screw.

Heck...keep your carb..sell it on some auction site...buy an air striker!! ;)

BJH · Post by **BJH** » 12:20 pm Dec 18 2004

CC,
What are the biggest advantages of the air striker?
________
T20

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 11:01 pm Dec 19 2004

Sorry for the delay....I've been..well...occupied? Whatever.........

I think the airstriker has a much stronger bottom end..and it has a smoother transition between the bottom couple circuits.

Keihin says it is less sensitive to jetting...you don't have to change jetting so often with temp/elevation changes. I can't speak to that cuz I haven't changed 'em back and forth to see if that is true.

Take note: If you don't have Ron modify the air striker, it has a different jet block height out of the box. So...if you just buy one from Sudco (or whereever), keep in mind that what 'everybody' uses in an RB modified carb may well not work for you if you have an UNmodified jet block. I believe Ron drops the block about one clip (relatively speaking).

Besides the performance improvement...you have the advantage of having a much cooler looking carbonater!!

Now THAT'S worth something, aint' it?

...just kidding. I couldn't care less WHAT it LOOKS like...as long as it WORKS! And it does.

If you are considering having Ron (I'm referring to RB Desings) modify your oem PWK, it would be good time to consider getting an AS, too!

Don't forget having Ron set you up with one'a those handy finger-adjustable air screws, too! The RB modified carb makes the pilot circuit actually DO something..and being able to adjust your air screw on the fly with your fingers is a great advantage!

Heck...I must've done that 3-4 times today on a 60 mile ride.

BJH · Post by **BJH** » 11:43 pm Dec 19 2004

I've already had the RB mod done on my stock carb. I'm just now starting to get the jetting correct. I don't think it liked my FRP ported cylinder. Or at least it took a while to get the two mods to shake hands. I'm rounding the corner on it now but it's been a struggle to get the jetting correct. Especialy since my jetting skill level should be considered novice at best.
I'm considering the air stryker since from what I here it is more forgiving on the jetting end of things.
I've seen that finger adjusted AS and I'm interested. I need to let my credit card cool off a bit due to Christmas first.

________
Bmw M47

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 11:58 pm Dec 19 2004

O.K since we are on the subject of the RB air stryker carb and this is my thread, I guess I can't be accused of highjacking it for posting another question here.
Went riding yesterday. I noticed the bike was bogging from about 1/4 throttle to 3/4 or more throttle when the rpms were below 5,000 rpm or so. I also noticed the 1/8-1/4 throttle was "mushy" so I adjusted my air screw, the fancy one, thankyouverymuch. The 1/8-1/4 throttle improved greatly just as I expected, but the bogging from mid throttle and mid rpm got worse; even to the point that I could stall the engine with the bog if I wicked the thottle 3/4 open or near bouts and held it there.. Since I was needing to adjust the air screw out (counter clockwise) I was adding air and leaning out the circuit. Not unexpected since it had last been set for about 2,000 ft elevation and I was now at 4200 ft elevation. Anyway, since I was leaning with the air screw and the mid range, 3/4 throttle bog got worse, I figure that I'm lean on my needle clip setting. Any concourance?
Just want to make clear, the 1/8 throttle right off idle will loft the front wheel. The air screw is working fine for adjusting that end of things. It is the point of wicking the throttle past that while in low to mid rpms that I experiance bog. Upper rpms and the bike RIPS!!!
Currently using the CEK needle on the leanest clip position and a 145 main and 38 pilot for my KDX220R.
Thanks!

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 12:27 pm Dec 20 2004

re: 'I don't think it liked my FRP ported cylinder'

Amen! I wouldn't be surprised if that was where Fredette's opinion of the RB mod came from. He reportedly said the modified carb was 'too picky' to jet. But...I'll bet his bike cylinder was ported...and probably not by Eric Gorr, 'eh?

Similarly, 'proper' jetting on my bike I've come to consider a hopeless endeavor. BP (before porting) my bike was fine..response as good as you could ask for everywhere, perfect plug reads, an exhaust that looked like it was on a CRF250X. Now? Performance is considerably better, yes...but I cannot get rid of the drips.

skipro: 'I figure that I'm lean on my needle clip setting'

I've never had any understanding of what you're doing at clip one, anyway.

Looking at JD's spreadsheet, the difference in 'relative jetting change' between clip 1 and 3 is pretty much all over by 3/4 throttle. In any case, being able to stall the bike with a constantly held throttle position is a huge problem, seems to me. Anyone with a lick of carb sense should be able to nail that immediately!

So...I suggest you find that person! ;)

Seems more like a transistion problem to me...not something wrong so much with a particular circuit. My choice would be to clean the carb in the first place...soak it in some Berryman's. Blow it out good. See if the condition still exists. Change that needle position! Not because changing it makes a whole lot of sense for a 3/4 throttle dead zone...but because being on clip-1 is too strange.

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 12:58 pm Dec 20 2004

Thanks for the input CC. What I can't figure is why the 3/4 throttle boggs only when at the lugging range of rpms. At 1/8-1/4 throttle in the lugging range of rpms, the bike will stand right up. When the bike is reved up rpm wise, it flat rips at any throttle setting. If I let the rpms fall off, then I just keep it at 1/4 throttle or downshift if I need more power. I didn't have this problem before. (I don't think. Maybe it's just now that I'm starting to ride better and can manage more throttle than 1/4 or more. )
In any case, I guess I'll pull the carb and after cleaning it out, set the clip on 3 and give it a try. I still have that DEK needle around somewheres too. You thought highly of that one, didn't you?

Post by **Indawoods** » 01:07 pm Dec 20 2004

What sounds strange Ski... is that if it didn't act like this before, are you sure it's the carb and not something electrical?

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 03:05 pm Dec 20 2004

O.K!!!!!!
I found the problem and fixed it.
I decided to sit down and write down what brought me to this point. Main thing that was really bugging me was that the bike worked before, now it doesn't. Jetting just doesn't change on it's own, as far as I know. The first thing I thought of was the throttle was always like this but I was not a good enough rider to get into that circuit when riding. I was either "on the pipe" or lugging around in 1st gear. I took the bike out this morning and tried to duplicate the problem. I could not....on flat ground. Up and down the street, the throttle was flawless. 2nd gear, lugged wayyyy down low, snap the throttle to 1/2-3/4 and that bike wheelies like it's been shot in the butt with a BB gun. My driveway however is steep. Going up in second gear at an almost stall speed, wick the throttle to 1/2-3/4 and the problem was at hand. O.K. up and down the driveway a couple more times to prove the throttle is the factor here and then only under load like a hill and I'm back into the garage to change the needle clip position. I pulled the carb off, removed the cap and throttle cable, removed the clip retaining bolt thingy and pull the needle......only the needle won't come out.
Remember my post here?:
http://kdx.woodsrider.net/viewtopic.php ... e+throttle

Well it looks like when I cleaned my throttle cable before the last ride, I was lazy. (yet again) and didn't remove the cable from the carb. Somehow the crud in the throttle cable flushed out into the top of the carb where the needle is and sludged it all up. I cleaned it all and reassembled. Testing again on the driveway and everything is back to normal.
Jason pointed out in the linked thread that he removed the cable from the carb when he lubed his. I should have followed his method of cleaning and lubing a cable I guess.
Bike runs like it used to.
Still.....CC isn't happy with me at the 1st clip position so I decided to change it to #3 (middle position). Driveway and flat steet test seem the same as before?!?!? Hmmmm. I should feel some difference. I guess my butt isn't too educated. Hey CC, remember when my bike stalled when riding up your way? I think I mentioned then that I could get the bike to stall if I wicked the throttle quick and then released it. I thought maybe that has something to do with the needle position. So I tried to stall the bike that way and couldn't with the #3 clip position. I went back to #1 position and tried. Sure enough, about 1 out of 10 times, a quick wick of the throttle and off again, the bike would stall. Changed back to #3 positon and I could not get it to stall. For everyone else, I have the EFM auto clutch and a quick wick of the throttle releases the clutch and engages it again real fast. If I stall my bike with an auto clutch, I have to kickstart it as you can not bump start it. The one or two times I stalled my autoclutched KDX didn't impress CC much or inspire him to go rush out and buy one. Looks like it was a jetting problem, not a clutch problem.
Anyway, I guess I should play with the needle some more, but once again, I am happy.....and lazy. So for now, I leave it as is. Thanks for the inputs guys!

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 07:28 pm Dec 20 2004

re: 'Jetting just doesn't change on it's own...'

No. But crud can 'happen' on its own, 'eh? I mean...it just kind of shows up when you least expect OR need it!

Don't know why junk sitting on top of the slide would make any difference, though. My slide has such sitting on top everytime I've taken it out. I do clean it..just cuz I don't want it migrating somewhere where it could cause a problem.

In any case, good to hear whatever it was got resolved.

I would expect you to be able to feel a 2-clip change..and that change should be in the mid-throttle area. Some trail riding will tell you more than tootin' up and down your road or driveway (and making the neighbors VERY happy I'm sure!).

Hey! I said clean it first, change it later!! I'm always excited when/if a blather of mine perchance fixes something. Yanno...random acts of cogent thought being rare on my part...I gotta be thrilled when something actually comes out right!!!

...if cleaning it had anything to do with it at all :( Maybe putting the cap back on tight was what really 'fixed' it.

Yep...I prefer the DEK to the CEK on my 200.

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