MSR shifter

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Colorado Mike
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MSR shifter

Post by Colorado Mike »

I got one of these for my KDX , but there was no way it was going to fit, it jammed the magneto cover bad. So, no problem, My kid has a KX85, and it fits that too. I took his stocker , and put the MSR on his bike.

Well, luckily he was just practicing today and not racing. That total piece of crap stripped out and wouldn't allow the bike to go into 1st. He didn't crash at all, no stomping on the shifter either.

I went and got him an OEM shifter, but I recommend you avoid the MSR unit, it's a waste.
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wanaride
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Post by wanaride »

Thanks for the headsup. My shifter is bent and I was thinking about picking up a MSR unit from a local shop. I'll avoid it now. Is there another option besides OEM? I haven't found one yet.
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Colorado Mike
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Post by Colorado Mike »

By OEM, I mean I went with a Kawy part, but not the KDX one. I have a KX85 shifter on my bike.
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

If we're talking about the same thing.....I changed my mind!

I got the MSR-X (I think it is) shifter. It's forged aluminum. It's pretty. I needed to do something about my already-welded-once OEM broke-springed wobbler.

I carried it around in my bag for about three months, not wanting to be inconvenienced by the breakage of it all.

Put it on a few weeks back. I do have a cover spacer (Steahly FWW). Fit in that area is fine. Can't say why CM's didn't.

It does have a bit of a fitment problem. Placed where I wanted it, I couldn't shift into 1st gear. The shifter hit my skid plate bracket. That could have been resolved, but I simply moved it up on notch. That turned out to be just fine, anyway.

I reefed on it pretty good, knowing from this post and other reports I've heard that the thing wasn't going to last. Mine is attached with an allen-head bolt. I put a combination wrench on the allen to get enough leverage to make it dam-good'n-tite.

Checked it after one ride. An easy ride at that..flagging for an event. It was loose! Reefed on it summore.

It's stayed tight for the last three rides.

I wonder if it's a problem with the spline mesh. If the splines weren't quite right, that would account for it getting loose in such short order.

IF you don't check it REAL soon after putting it on and retighten it, it's not going to last for diddle.

I'm a pretty soft-touch when it comes to shifting. I'm not standing, pounding, jamming on the thing thinking I'll shift faster if I abuse it.

I bought an OEM one, too. It's at the machine shop right now getting 'fortified'.

I don't think my original one broke due to boot-busting. More likely crashing. I bent the thing back so I could reach it more than once.

So...if you get one'a these levers...tighten it..then check it at least a couple of times. It's not going to stand being loose!

imo and all that hullaballo.........

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Post by thebleakness »

What did you do to "fortify" your shifter? My OEM shifter cracking where the spine clamp and the shifter met. I took it too school and welded it together with some beefy 7018 and its been working like a champ. I wouldnt mind making sure its stronger though...
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Post by canyncarvr »

I'll post a pic of it.

It's got a bit of 'blocking' on the backside, between the spline clamp and the 'up' turn of the shifter.

It's welded low on the clamp..to give the metal as much chance to move (clamp) as it can get..considering something is welded to its backside.

Mine worked fine after it was welded. It broke in the same place yours cracked.

As discussed with the welder guy (I've never touched a welder myself), making the shifter stronger is good only to a limit. TOO strong and it won't bend when you smack it..all of the smacking force will go directly to the shaft.

Don't want that.

I'd rather obliterate the shift lever than break the shift SHAFT!

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Post by canyncarvr »

Image

Great, 'eh?

When I was talking to Mr. WelderMan and he mentioned welding to the back side, I thought, 'I can't think of any frame member that's in the way of doing that.'

So I said, 'Sure!'


Nope! No frame member there!!

.
.
.

108 links of whirring, spinning 520 chain?

Uh...yeah.

Looks like I'll have to modify the modification........ :cry:
Last edited by canyncarvr on 10:06 pm Nov 14 2006, edited 1 time in total.

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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

:lol: Hard to tell what it is at that angle!
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Post by canyncarvr »

:hmm:

There is another angle you'd like to see?

Nothing TO see..just what you KNOW (should know) fits in that space. The space that ain't there no moh.

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Post by Indawoods »

Put it on eBay and don't say anything.... I'm sure it would sell! :lol:
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Post by canyncarvr »

Of course it would! It's fortified!

That's a brand new shifter I had welded on. I'm not selling it to nobody (at a $$ loss..and that ain't too likely about now!)

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Post by thebleakness »

That was abit more than what I had envisioned. I was thinking of putting a triangular gusset between the clamp and the arm to hold the welded portion that has already cracked. That should also solve the problem with the chain...

How much did you pay for that fortification? Im curious...
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Post by canyncarvr »

It was more than I had envisioned myself. What you describe is exactly what I had in mind..a gusset type fix. When he suggested something else, I knew I should wait..check it out AT the bike for fit..but I figured I could always REMOVE some metal. It's the ATTACHING the metal part that I have no tools for or knowledge of.

About twice what I figured, considering I think the whole thing would take only a few minutes. He's done favors for me before..so it all works out. Considering, too, that he's been nice enough to take on some pretty silly little stuff (turning down the inside lip of grease seals, making tools to do the job) I value his availability. I've got a pipe on my street bike that is going to need some work done on it pretty quick..and some boob already messed with it using JB-weld (Hey! It was back on the road for a ride the next day!).

$20

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