Finally Done with My Frok Conversion!

Questions and comments about converting to beefier forks..
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skipro3
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Post by skipro3 »

Am I hearing right? A KX top clamp will fit the KDX stem and the USD KX forks? I'll check with Doug's bike, but that would be sweet!!!! Off to eBay.

BTW what's a frok?
(hint: Check the title of your thread)
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Post by Indawoods »

Oh FROK you SKI! :lol:
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Post by jafo »

Ski, I shecked for the brake line popping out under compression, it stays put. The line loops out at the top of the handlebars, thats where mine moves. Why? Dunno. It just seemed to work out that way. I sure did'nt plan it it that way. I went through some trails today that beat me up pretty good and made me wish I would have wore my chest protector. It almost got lunged acouple times today. I took it down trails far less traveled. Some portions I really had to concentrate very hard just to see the trail sometimes. It was really cutting a new trail. Somewhere along the ride I bruised my kneecap. I did'nt even realise it until I was driving home and it just started to hurt.

As far as the shims, it would have had to work the way you stated. The shims went in under the bearing and the bearing was pressed on over the shims. As far as the stem being tapered for the bearing, I could'nt tell you for sure. As far as headshake, I had it at a pretty good clip today also, and did'nt feel anything out of the ordinary. Where I ride, theres a portion of the are thats wide open, and there's a couple straight aways you can get going pretty good on. They are smooth with no ruts or rocks. I got the bike rapped out in 4th gear and once in 5th without anything feeling out of the ordinary. The bike felt very tight and solid. I hit a few ledges in 3rd gear and flew a few feet. Felt real good. The thing that amazed me was that the front end did'nt wash out on not one single time, and some of the areas I rode through was mucky mud. It took me awhile to get used to not being perinoid turning to fast. My old front end would have definitley washed out in some of the areas I w2as in today. I ran the bike in a full gammot of different situations I could run into, mud, mud on hard ground, deep mud, sharp rocks, smooth tall rocks, roxks that were muddy, rocks on hills, ruts, some deep ruts.....you name it i took the bike there today. The only thing I did'nt do today was the suicide hill. Thats a 15 foot wall almost straight up. You have to drop into a narrow creek first and then go up. I doubt I could make that one. It's very intimidating... :oops: Nest time I go I'll get a pic of it. It unreal. There have been guys go up it, you can see the trail. But it's not very worn, so I'm guessing that not to many want to venture up it.

Oh by the way, I did crash a few times myself. One was very imbarassing. It was one of those deals where you get up and look around to see if anyones around and seen it. I rolled up between to trees in the woods. The trees were staggared, the left one was first and then to the right there was a BIG 4 wheeler rut. Very wide and deep as I would soon find out. The next tree on the right was next to the "pond". I had to go over two choppy ruts between the trees, and for some reason I hit the second rut which aligned me and the bike perfectly with the "pond". I hit the front brake to avoid the last tree on the right and wa-la. The bike fell to the right and there was no footing there just water. It was the best dive I ever took off a bike! :lol: I was'nt amused at the time but it's kinda funny now. Filled my right boot completely full of water, the bike fell in and almost filled the pipe up. I had to go back and get a new pair of socks, I was soaked!!@#$%$#$%!!!

Jon.
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Post by skipro3 »

Glad to hear the bike and the fork setup is working well for you. Your ride report reminds me of when I first got the KX forks. Old habits are hard to die and fear of high speed crashes is right up there. I can't tell I'm faster, but the guys I ride with say I am. The forks definately make for a faster ride once you get comfortable riding fast.

BTW nice photos in the gallery. I think you said you're from Missouri? I really like the shot of the uphill with rock ledges and such; very much like out west here. Difficult to go up because you have to choose a line, but coming down, and with the new forks, Line: who needs a line? Just point and wick open that throttle, the faster, the better with the forks!!!! Trust the force, Luke,.....er....I mean trust the forks jafo!!
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Post by canyncarvr »

Thanks for the writeup on your fork set-up, jafo!

It's almost enough to get me off my rear-end and get MINE done! Well...almost.

Do you know the spring rate on your forks? Still the progressive type as the OEM forks were (well, a lot of 'em, I think).

I don't recall you saying if your valving is OEM or not..

Bladders? In? Out?

Yanno...the way this is going to work out. You guys that just bolted 'em on are going to love them. I muck around with everything for six monhts..SOMEthing about my lashup is going to sucketh large. :wink:

Thanks again, jafo. Great descriptive write-up!!

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Post by jafo »

CC, I took the KX forks like I got them to Emig's. I told him I wanted new seals and wipers. He asked what I would be using the bike for the most and I told him hare scrambles and enduros with trail riding also. So he revalved the forks. I don't know if he done anything with the bladders or not. I just wanted it set up for the woods. If I had to put money on it, I'd almost guarantee the stock springs are in it. I weigh rite around 200 lbs. anyways. As far as valving, I don't know what he done with it or what he put into it. I backed the adjustment screws off about 5 clicks after I got it. I like a soft front end. They were kinda stiff when I first got them back.I treid to get them as close to the feel of my old forks by pushing down on the front end with the front brake on. I got'm close and it worked out great. I may try a few more clicks each way to see if I can tell a difference.

Jon.
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Post by KDXGarage »

Actually, the '97's didn't have bladder. I hope this helps.
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Post by jafo »

Yes it does. Thats nice to know. Thanks Jason! It's saves me from asking around. By the way, it seems from the way everyone talks about bladders, why is it important or good to take it out?

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Post by KDXGarage »

No problem. I have read in various places that some tuners didn't like them. I have never had a set, so I can't comment on them. I just knew that the '97 forks don't have them, so it would help to kep you from worrying about something you don't have. Just ride and have fun. Don't worry about them. :grin:
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Post by Indawoods »

Jon....

Are they so close that you don't want anymore work done to them? Have you really put them through their paces? Mine are so reactive that I don't notice them but I still think there is room for some improvement. I am going to remove a couple of the large shims on each and raise the oil level. So far ...that is all I can think of to do to them since they are great right now....Still getting over the shock of having nice forks I guess! :lol:
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Post by jafo »

Well there pretty close Indi. I'm going to try some valve screw adjustments next time out just to see what difference it'll make. But they feel good. I'm still going to have to adjust to them though. I'm starting to look at messing with the rear shock also. I think an adjustment there may affect the attitude of the front forks alittle, we'll see. like Skipro said, you have to get over the fear of the old forks. These handle so much better, that my mind still does'nt want to totaly trust them, but I'll get past that with a few more rides after I get a handle on what the front end with handle and just how far I can push the "envelope" with these forks. I'm sure theres other things to try but I just want to ride the bike now and enjoy. My first race will probably tell me more than anything on just where the forks are on performance. Hey theres always room for improvement, but beware, sometimes you can go backwards wrather than progress by thinking to much. I'm not that knowledgable on bike suspension, so I have to trust someone who is is Emig's. He's a neutral source of information and has no reason to mess me around. Besides he's a pretty knowledgable person with suspensions and does alot more extreme off-roading than I do. He's good at setting up suspension. I'll explore more options later though.

So what does removing shims and adding oil do theoreticaly?

Jon.
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Post by KDXGarage »

The shims help to control compression and rebound. Various quantities and thicknesses are used. Removing a shim would reduce the affect of the stack of shims somewhat, depending on where and how important it is within the stack of shims. Adding oil within the adjustable range is used to reduce bottoming. If the forks or shock is not bottoming out a little bit (gently, not harshly), then basically, the rider is not getting all the suspension travel they paid for.

I would suggest to start out with a "low in the adjustable range" oil level, then add oil if need be. It is easier to add oil than to take it away, especially if you are close to set up correctly and just add a little through the air bleeder screw openings.
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Post by T-Roy »

Jon, thanks for the info brother. I need to get to work on my conversion. My parts are collecting dust. I need more hours in the day...

Thanks again fellas for the great info. :supz:
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