Which years need knurling?

Questions and comments about converting to beefier forks..
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johnyblaze
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Which years need knurling?

Post by johnyblaze »

I read the old posts and seemed to get conficting results on which years kx/KDX combos need a knurling to fit up the stem in the lower clamp.

I just got my clamps back from RB. He did a great job, but I found out that my KX clamps were actually from a 94/95 and took the 43mm forks instead of my 46mm forks. So, I need a redo with another set of KX clamps.

I have a line on a set of 98 KX125 clamps (owner checked the hole size for me and it's fine) for $35. Just wondering if I need to send these all the way back to RB for knurling? If they just need pressing, I can probably have a local shop do the work as I already have the spacer. If, on the other hand, they'need another spacer or knurling, I should probably send it back to RB cause I trust his work. Maybe I should just call RB and ask.

BTW, my KDX is a 98 220.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

It should be treated as a brand new conversion instead of a rework. The reason why is safety. It will need evaluated before the work is done to know exactly what needs to be done. None of this stuff is written in stone and tolerances can vary.

Talk to Ron and see what he has to say about it.
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RBD
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Post by RBD »

I can not say for sure, but I think the 2001 and later year KDX lower T-clamp and stem only needs the stem machined a little so the lower bearing can seat against the lower KX T-clamp.

And the 2000 and earlier KDX T-clamp and stem do need to be knurled to fit the lower KX T-clamp.

Again I am not totaly sure when Kawasaki changed the stem diameter at the lower T-clamp, but it seems to be around 2000. I use to think it was when Kawasaki came out with the 220, but have found out that the 1998 220's do have the smaller stem size that needs to be knurled.

Another thing I have found is the very early KDX stem nut (the one that sets the pre-load on the bearings) needs a little machining as well. About 3 mm of the thread at the bottom where it makes contact with the upper bearing needs to be machined out.

This spanner nut is made out of aluminum on the early models, not steel like the later models. The strange thing is, they all have the same part number.

johnyblaze I sent you a e-mail and can help you out if needed.

Ron
johnyblaze
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Post by johnyblaze »

Ron - thanks. I'm returning your email in a minute.
1998 KDX220 with goodies
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