while cleaning the forks I found some damages at the very bottom of the inner tube
one is a scratch about 3 mm long x 1 mm wide and about 30 mm (1 inch) from the bottom of the tube.
The other is a ding/dent not too deep (0.5 mm maybe) but deep enough that I can see it feel it from the inside and is 10 mm from the bottom
I am not too worried about the dent since it's so close to the bottom of the fork, but the scratch has me wondering if it's worth putting new seals and bushings. Can this be "smoothed/buffed out"? or are they shot?
Thanks
Wilf
damaged fork?
- scheckaet
- KDXRider.net
- Posts: 3740
- Joined: 12:09 am Nov 10 2005
- Country:
- Location: edmond oklahoma
damaged fork?
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
-
- Supporting Member II
- Posts: 323
- Joined: 08:31 pm Aug 26 2009
- Country:
- Location: Brush Prairie Washington
The dent is too blurry to get a detailed look at but there is probably not much you can do about it and if it's that close to the end of the tube I don't think I'd worry about it.
The ding on the other hand is a bit different. You need to remove the displaced material (the burr) and smooth the pit out or it will tear up your new seal.
Use a fine polishing stone or a small round file and get the sharp edges off. You may be able to use emery cloth but I prefer the stone. You can find them shaped like a pencil which is the one you need.
I've been doing that for years and it's worked quite well. I've even been able to polish up an area where the chrome has been chipped off and the seal has held up for years.
Shoot, I even polish up small dings on a regular basis as a preventative maintainance.
The ding on the other hand is a bit different. You need to remove the displaced material (the burr) and smooth the pit out or it will tear up your new seal.
Use a fine polishing stone or a small round file and get the sharp edges off. You may be able to use emery cloth but I prefer the stone. You can find them shaped like a pencil which is the one you need.
I've been doing that for years and it's worked quite well. I've even been able to polish up an area where the chrome has been chipped off and the seal has held up for years.
Shoot, I even polish up small dings on a regular basis as a preventative maintainance.
KX 250, KDX 220, KDX 220, KDX 200, CR 80
I don't believe in a society where the thrill of living is traded for the safety of existance---Nick Inatsch
I don't believe in a society where the thrill of living is traded for the safety of existance---Nick Inatsch
- scheckaet
- KDXRider.net
- Posts: 3740
- Joined: 12:09 am Nov 10 2005
- Country:
- Location: edmond oklahoma
the scratch appears old and fairly smooth (no burr). I read on TT about the superglue trick, I will try that. Hopefully it'll hold up. It's so far down the tube that I think I'll be fine.
I might try your tips too.
Thanks
I might try your tips too.
Thanks
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
-
- Member
- Posts: 124
- Joined: 09:02 pm Jun 28 2009
- Country:
- Location: Pemberton NJ
As a forklift mechanic, I see alot of the damage that you have on your fork leg on hydraulic cylinders. As mentioned above, smooth out the high spots. I then "sweat" the area or heat it with a propane torch to remove any oil residue. You can actually see droplets rise out of the heated area. Clean with contact cleaner. I use a 2 part epoxy, a more liquidy type works very well in filling the knick. Let it set up and sand it smooth. Ive done this on some seriously damaged hyd rods, and fork tubes, with great success.
-
- Supporting Member II
- Posts: 1005
- Joined: 06:57 pm Mar 19 2005
- Country:
Great advice - Only thing I would add is when sanding the area a fine wet-dry (400 or possible finer ) should be used; final polish/sand the area like a proffesional shoe shiner/buffer.zz3gmc wrote:As a forklift mechanic, I see alot of the damage that you have on your fork leg on hydraulic cylinders. As mentioned above, smooth out the high spots. I then "sweat" the area or heat it with a propane torch to remove any oil residue. You can actually see droplets rise out of the heated area. Clean with contact cleaner. I use a 2 part epoxy, a more liquidy type works very well in filling the knick. Let it set up and sand it smooth. Ive done this on some seriously damaged hyd rods, and fork tubes, with great success.
KTM 380EXC Mine
KDX 200 Mark's
TTR 125 L Wife's
KDX 200 Austin's
EC 300 Tyson's
WR430 Husky - mine
KDX 200 Mark's
TTR 125 L Wife's
KDX 200 Austin's
EC 300 Tyson's
WR430 Husky - mine