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OK. I am not saying my 1st mounting of the clamp wouldnt work, and I did test it to the point of nearly bottoming the forks with no problem, but I did decide to mount the clamp on the lower for guard just to be safe.

I had a hook-type brake line cable router off of the KX. I did the same as above, cutting the bend out of the cable router, drilled a hole through the flat part and mounted the brake line clamp. I then found where it would best work on the lower fork guard and drilled 2 holes for the cable router to mount on the lower fork guard. It ended up being just below the fork guard mounting clamp.

If you want another pic, I'll post one. If you are tired of me jerking you around, trying to figure this out with you, just give me one of these

Sorry for any confusion.

Its all about safety and function, going over the bars really sucks. especially if its a bike malfunction, it might never happen but it only takes once. There is a reason the factory secures the line in that fashion.

FF, I'd like to see that picture.

The brake line needs to be connected to the fork guard above the glide.

The brake line and fork guard need to move upward unobstructed as one, with all the slack in the line being forced toward the handlebars.

If you force the line down it can enter the spokes or that excess forced down can snag log,stick,etc.

Like Island said it's about safety and we know your headed for a lot of miles at the Monkeybutt poker run/race on the 18th.

This is what I ended up with. It is not the best looking setup, but it does work.

Now you got it.

Looks? The hell with looks as long as it works.

I still have my right rad shroud and headlight shroud all caulked and riveted together from a 2 years old crash.

Like you mentioned, last thing I want is to get over to Hepner, deep into the harescramble and put the brake line into the spokes!