Conversion finally done!
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Conversion finally done!
Finally got the conversion on my kids 220 finished.
Looks good.
The kids wanted a number plate instead of the light. I'd have kept the light but hey, its his ride!
New ProTaper SE bars. I was going to go with big bars but in the end stayed with stock diameter. These are CR High bends and feel nice. New Moose levers and a set of Acerbis Rally Pro's top it off.
ProTaper Pillow Grips that I got with the bars. These are really comfortable.
Here's the one headscratcher. I had to use flat washers as spacers between the fork mount and the caliper in order to get the inside pad in contact with the rotor as opposed to the rotor scraping the caliper ears. Hmmmmm. Maybe it's because of all the different components that went into this: 1997 KX125 forks, 2003 KX250 front wheel and axle spacers, 2002 KDX220R front brake setup. Anybody else have to shim their caliper inward?
Looks good.
The kids wanted a number plate instead of the light. I'd have kept the light but hey, its his ride!
New ProTaper SE bars. I was going to go with big bars but in the end stayed with stock diameter. These are CR High bends and feel nice. New Moose levers and a set of Acerbis Rally Pro's top it off.
ProTaper Pillow Grips that I got with the bars. These are really comfortable.
Here's the one headscratcher. I had to use flat washers as spacers between the fork mount and the caliper in order to get the inside pad in contact with the rotor as opposed to the rotor scraping the caliper ears. Hmmmmm. Maybe it's because of all the different components that went into this: 1997 KX125 forks, 2003 KX250 front wheel and axle spacers, 2002 KDX220R front brake setup. Anybody else have to shim their caliper inward?
- MXOldtimer
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CAUTION, CAUTION, CAUTION!!!!
You have to put that front brake line over the top of your # plate strap and hand guard. That # plate strap is to make sure the brake line doesn't fall/get pulled in behind the # plate on rebound.
That brake line has to be free to raise up without interference when the suspension compresses. The way you have it the brake line will bind nd be forced down into the wheel.
You have to put that front brake line over the top of your # plate strap and hand guard. That # plate strap is to make sure the brake line doesn't fall/get pulled in behind the # plate on rebound.
That brake line has to be free to raise up without interference when the suspension compresses. The way you have it the brake line will bind nd be forced down into the wheel.
04 KX-250 Hey.....at least it's green and smokes.
06 KDX-200 for off road play. Gone but not forgotten
07 KX-250F SOLD! I thump no more.
06 KDX-200 for off road play. Gone but not forgotten
07 KX-250F SOLD! I thump no more.
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- Indawoods
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I dig those grips!
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
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firffighter wrote:Looks good!
Yes, mxoldtimer is right, make sure you get that brake line squared away!
I'll fix that today!
What did you use for a spacer?
Which spacer? There are 3 locations that I had to use spacers in. The top triple clamp spacer is the extra stem nut. Works perfect. There is a spacer (or shim) in the top stem hole thats made of brass stock to take up the extra annular space at that location.
What did you use between the top triple clamp and stem?
Ooops, see above!
Are the forks stock or have they been revalved?
Not revalved........just new oil seals, outer dust seals and oil. Right now they are set (as well as the rear shock) to factory compression and rebound spec. I'll dial them in based upon feedback from the kid.
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I'll get that switched around today. I only have to undo the # plate and reroute it there. I'm good on the hand guard.MXOldtimer wrote:CAUTION, CAUTION, CAUTION!!!!
You have to put that front brake line over the top of your # plate strap and hand guard. That # plate strap is to make sure the brake line doesn't fall/get pulled in behind the # plate on rebound.
That brake line has to be free to raise up without interference when the suspension compresses. The way you have it the brake line will bind nd be forced down into the wheel.
- TWMOODY
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Quote:Here's the one headscratcher. I had to use flat washers as spacers between the fork mount and the caliper in order to get the inside pad in contact with the rotor as opposed to the rotor scraping the caliper ears. Hmmmmm. Maybe it's because of all the different components that went into this: 1997 KX125 forks, 2003 KX250 front wheel and axle spacers, 2002 KDX220R front brake setup. Anybody else have to shim their caliper inward?
You shouldn't need to use any washers to shim the caliper IF you used the
correct spacers and put them in the right position.
I took a quick look at mine at the spacer on the left side seems to be longer
than the spacer on the right, is that so with yours ??
You shouldn't need to use any washers to shim the caliper IF you used the
correct spacers and put them in the right position.
I took a quick look at mine at the spacer on the left side seems to be longer
than the spacer on the right, is that so with yours ??
Last edited by TWMOODY on 08:46 am May 10 2009, edited 1 time in total.
- MXOldtimer
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I have seen some run their brake line free on the fork guard and I'm sure it works.
IMO the brake line should be help secure to the guard forcing the brake line to move up away from the wheel.
My stock KXF had the brake line secured to the slider and it was recommended on KDXrider so I did the same to my KDX with a simple hose clamp bought at Ace.
I know the application is different for a headlight than your # plate but, that brake line has to be free to move up when the suspension compresses. Not securing the line to the slider kinda makes me cringe.
IMO the brake line should be help secure to the guard forcing the brake line to move up away from the wheel.
My stock KXF had the brake line secured to the slider and it was recommended on KDXrider so I did the same to my KDX with a simple hose clamp bought at Ace.
I know the application is different for a headlight than your # plate but, that brake line has to be free to move up when the suspension compresses. Not securing the line to the slider kinda makes me cringe.
04 KX-250 Hey.....at least it's green and smokes.
06 KDX-200 for off road play. Gone but not forgotten
07 KX-250F SOLD! I thump no more.
06 KDX-200 for off road play. Gone but not forgotten
07 KX-250F SOLD! I thump no more.
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Yep, mine is the same way.TWMOODY wrote:
You shouldn't need to use any washers to shim the caliper IF you used the
correct spacers and put them in the right position.
I took a quick look at mine at the spacer on the left side seems to be longer
than the spacer on the right, is that so with yours ??
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Great idea Mx!
Mine is just routed through the fork guard holder, but using the clamp would work perfect. I also have and extra brake line holder like the one on your KXF, so maybe I'll use that.
I also ended up using a washer on the brake side of the axle because my caliper wouldnt line up perfectly. I looked at the parts break down on the KX125 axle and I have all of the correct pieces, but am not 100% that everything is that same year, i.e. wheel, caliper, axle, etc.
Mine is just routed through the fork guard holder, but using the clamp would work perfect. I also have and extra brake line holder like the one on your KXF, so maybe I'll use that.
I also ended up using a washer on the brake side of the axle because my caliper wouldnt line up perfectly. I looked at the parts break down on the KX125 axle and I have all of the correct pieces, but am not 100% that everything is that same year, i.e. wheel, caliper, axle, etc.
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My fork guard mounting bracket has a brake line hoop right in it.MXOldtimer wrote:I have seen some run their brake line free on the fork guard and I'm sure it works.
IMO the brake line should be help secure to the guard forcing the brake line to move up away from the wheel.
My stock KXF had the brake line secured to the slider and it was recommended on KDXrider so I did the same to my KDX with a simple hose clamp bought at Ace.
I know the application is different for a headlight than your # plate but, that brake line has to be free to move up when the suspension compresses. Not securing the line to the slider kinda makes me cringe.
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OK. Just rode around the block hitting the front brakes several times and mx and island are right. Without securing it to the lower fork, the brake line will eventually drift over to the front spokes.
I simply cut the curve out of the "hoop" on the fork guard slider and drilled a couple of holes through the remaining plastic. I then attached my extra brake line clamp from my KDX.
I'll get a picture up later. Doing Mother's Day projects!
I simply cut the curve out of the "hoop" on the fork guard slider and drilled a couple of holes through the remaining plastic. I then attached my extra brake line clamp from my KDX.
I'll get a picture up later. Doing Mother's Day projects!
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So if I'm reading all this correctly the brake line must be pinched tightly by the clamp on the slider above the slider mount as opposed to being able to move freely within that same clamp (like it is able to move in the 2 upper guides on the fork pinch bolts), correct?island220 wrote:It needs to be secured to fork guard so that it moves with lower part of fork its hard to see but I think mxoldtimer has it secured above fork guard slider,good idea I put my mount below and removed slider
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But that isn't doing what they say needs to be done. Your clamp is tying the cable to the top part of the fork and it appears as if it needs to move with the lower half of the fork which is why people are saying to mount the clamp on the upper portion of the guard. You still have yours on the guard mount which is on the upper portion of the shock.firffighter wrote:Yes, I believe that is what they are saying. Here is my solution. Took about 10 minutes.
Maybe someone else can weigh in on this?
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Yes. You are correct that most have the brake line clamp mounted on the lower fork guard.
But, what I have done works as well. It simply holds the brake line in a fixed position and does not allow it to move vertically through the "hook" like we both have. Even though mine is now mounted in a fixed position on the upper part of the fork, it still wont let any slack build up to get into the spokes. I tested it today thoroughly and it works fine. Mxoldtimer's looks similar and others have theirs mounted to the fork guard mount like mine.
Hope this helps.
But, what I have done works as well. It simply holds the brake line in a fixed position and does not allow it to move vertically through the "hook" like we both have. Even though mine is now mounted in a fixed position on the upper part of the fork, it still wont let any slack build up to get into the spokes. I tested it today thoroughly and it works fine. Mxoldtimer's looks similar and others have theirs mounted to the fork guard mount like mine.
Hope this helps.
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