I'm gonna start a new post in relation to my last one wich was extremly helpfull to me.
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6291
I know their are alot of mixed feelings about what should be done about the mid valve but i'm thinking it's no harder to tweak in than it is to turn it into a check valve. It's said that it is too harsh for woods riding so I imagine that removing shims just like most of us do with the base valve might help me atain better results out on the trail.
This is what my cartridge valving is composed of.
nut
washer
4x 11
14
17
20
15
23
3x 27
piston
4x 27
26
24
22
20
18
16
2 x 14
thick 25
spring
collar
cup
[img][img]http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449 ... ure408.jpg[/img]
I'm not sure but i'm thinking items 16 to 31 are the mid valve.
Has anyone here played with tis before or does anyone have any input at all as to where I should start.
Mid valve tweaking
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Mid valve tweaking
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I`m not wich part is hsc wich is lsc and wich is for the rebound? Where is the mid-valve exactly?
Can someone help me!
Can someone help me!
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- strider80
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Rebound is between the washer and pistion, HSC (midvalve) is between the piston and cup.
What are you looking to set the bike up for? I have been playing with the MV on my KTM lately. The KTM has some float and the KDX is clamped, both methods have their merits. I am a midvalve fan, check plate bikes feel great in one area and are hard to tune for varied conditions. Others may disagree, but I believe a reasonable midvalve makes the bike more versatile.
I will dig up some note sheets from my KX forks.
What are you looking to set the bike up for? I have been playing with the MV on my KTM lately. The KTM has some float and the KDX is clamped, both methods have their merits. I am a midvalve fan, check plate bikes feel great in one area and are hard to tune for varied conditions. Others may disagree, but I believe a reasonable midvalve makes the bike more versatile.
I will dig up some note sheets from my KX forks.
2005 KTM 250EXC
2000 KDX200 (gone)
2000 KDX200 (gone)