Machinist visit

Questions and comments about converting to beefier forks..
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KDXer
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Machinist visit

Post by KDXer »

I'm going to the machinist on Monday morning with my clamp and stems and have a few questions.

I can't seem to find 'shim stock' from any hardware or hobby shop. They look at me like I just landed from Pluto :shock: What other suggestions do you guys have? Fosters can? Will the machinist have something suffice you think?

Should I get him to turn up some spacers for the clamps or just use washers etc? If so what sizes are we talking?

I'm going with the knurling (stem or clamp, thats the machinists choice), Green Loctite and r rrr rrroll pin :shock: That sucker aint goin nowhere !!

Any tips or tricks for the bottom bearing install (the machinist 'should' know what to do ????) Grease well and press on?

Thanks guys and sorry for all the questions I just want to get this swap out underway faultlessly... Cheers Trev
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Post by skipro3 »

Shim stock is pretty common stuff, at least around my neck of the woods. Just about any hardware or hobby store will have it over here. I used brass shim and bought several sizes. It comes in little sheets about 4x6 inches or maybe 5x7 in various thicknessess.
Also check model railroad outlets or shops, or any modeling stores for that matter. A machinist would certainly have some on hand and might sell it to you or offer to tell you where it can be bought.
Other wise, the Fosters can, a soup can, a throw-away pie tin, or any of a dozen other like-type items can be shaped into the size spacer you need. Just start looking around and visualize an object as a shim. They will pop up everywhere.

The bearing is just pressed on. Your machinist should do this the same time he presses on the stem to clamp. Otherwise you can press it on yourself with an appropriate size piece of pipe and a mallot, or large vice.
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Post by KDXer »

Cheers Ski, what about the top clamp spacer that is required? Should I just buy a bunch of washers or I recall someone using the KX top stem nut as a spacer? Wish me luck... The next step is forks of to tuner for midvalve work and new seals for now and after some testing maybe back for valving and a respring. Oh and Mr Airstyker get ready to pack your bags cos your coming to Australia for a looooong holiday :lol: I can't wait... Thanks again Ski...
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Post by skipro3 »

I used the nut from the KX stem as a spacer. It looked better than a stack of washers. Some guys didn't have to use that. You do need the spacer if you are using bars with a brace or if the KDX stem threads aren't cut with enough to tighten before running out of thread.
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Post by KDXer »

Cool, thanks. What do you think about knurling both stem and bottom clamp ?? Overkill ??

I'll keep looking for some shim stock. Aluminium / brass / copper ??? Cheers...
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Post by skipro3 »

Overkill? It wouldn't hurt, but then, I'm now of the opinion that the fit need not be tight anyway and that the clip ring on the bottom along with the pressed on bearing are enough. Mine had only the clamp knurled since it was aluminum and the lighter of the two metals. (Therfore easier to knurl.) If you can't find shim stock, let me know if you still need it when the carb and seat are shipped. I'll pick up a variety of sheets and send them along.
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Post by KDXer »

Thanks Ski... I've just returned from the machinist. He reckons he can shim it with brass so the shim shouldn't be a problem now.

But the problem now is his price :rolleyes: :shock: He wanted $300 WTF to press out old stem, knurl clamp, press in new stem and bearing and shim the top clamp. I told him he had to be kidding. "Oh no It'll take me 3 hours to do" he says. I bargained him down to $200 and have a friend who works there trying to bargain him more. Good news is I should have it all together very soon. Thanks again Jerry.... Trev
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Post by Indawoods »

$25 is all it costs in the good ol US of A.... Dude... I don't think I want to live in Aussie land! :shock:
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Post by skipro3 »

For that price you can BUY a 20 ton hand operated press. (Works like a hydralic jack) and the knurling tool.
Even if it did take him 3 hours, he makes $100 per hour?!?! Dude! I want that job!
Find someone else with a press, buy the knurling tool ($25 US) and get it done for less than $50.
Wow!!! I am shocked!
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Post by KDXer »

Too late :oops: I hear ya about the "You can BUY a 20 ton hand operated press" but ....... I had no transport and was being driven around by a mate and didn't want him stuffing around taking me all over the place to find a cheaper machinist etc. It ended up cost $150.00 but 'I' think he did a great job (I know, I know and so he shoulda for that money). I'm putting pictures in my gallery. He made a brass shim and pressed it into the top clamp. The roll pin turned into a grub screw and now for the shocking part...................................


the stock KDX stem had to be TURNED DOWN to fit. :shock: :shock: No knurling this puppy. :lol:

Well all is ready for installation and I just have to send my forks out now. I hope the machinist is enjoying his seafood platter dinner I probably payed for :rolleyes:

Thanks guys....
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Post by canyncarvr »

The bushing looks to be different thicknesses from one end to the other? Is that right?

Your top clamp is tapered? Don't know why it would be...the stem isn't. Right?

Good idea on that. I'll ask 'my guy' about that, too. I'm taking mine in this week.

$300!! Three hours!!! Wow. That's awful!! Shocked indeed! $150 certainly is closer to reason..especially with the bushing work.

Thanks for the update!!

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Post by KDXGarage »

Is this another example of KDX AUS parts being different than KDX USA parts?
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Post by KDXer »

You are right CC about the bushing being different sizes but the funny part is that neither clamp or stem is tapered. Actually the bushing isn't tapered at all. I might call him and ask him what he did exactly. They are definately not tapered though.
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