conversion questions

Questions and comments about converting to beefier forks..
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kicknrocks
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conversion questions

Post by kicknrocks »

is there a difference between a kx250/125 shock?

Any idea what years shocks/trees are compatible?

Will a 125 tree fit a 250?

Given a choice, which shock would be preferable?

Anybody know anything about kayaba shocks?

Are a 125/250 wheel interchangeable?

Will I be better off to revalve a stock fork, or buy aftermarket?

I'm sure I'll be back with more. You guys are, like, geniuses and stuff.
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Re: conversion questions

Post by 2001kdx »

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kicknrocks wrote:is there a difference between a kx250/125 shock?


Will a 125 tree fit a 250?
Yes.
Given a choice, which shock would be preferable?
125 will have a lighter spring and may be valved differently. Otherwise Identical on the Kawasaki 125/250.

Anybody know anything about kayaba shocks?
Not really :(Are a 125/250 wheel interchangeable?
I believe so.
Will I be better off to revalve a stock fork, or buy aftermarket?
Do the conversion. There is a lot to gain by just simply running a set of KX forks after rebuilding them, and with a full woods revalve, you've got heaven.I'm sure I'll be back with more. You guys are, like, geniuses and stuff.
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Post by 2001kdx »

250 or 125 shock shouldn't matter as much as it is finding the right set of forks.
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Post by kicknrocks »

how do you mean "the right set?"

also, "full woods revalve?"

when I said "revalve a stock fork," I meant revalve a stock KX, as opposed to buying an aftermarket KX.
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Post by 2001kdx »

Revalving a stock KX. That's what I was referring to.

An aftermarket KX? I don't quite follow - If you aren't snagging a set off of Ebay, you're spending a LOT of money.
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Post by kicknrocks »

SWEET! Just snagged a pair of forks for 113 and triple tree for 62.51. Hope the Applied triple tree (oversized upper, OEM lower) wasn'a a waste of money.

So I need the wheel and axle, anything else on the bottom?

I understand that I need machine work, pressing and knurling. How do I find a machinist that understands this process?

With all the talk about shim stock/spacers/beer cans, which direction should i head? Can I use a beer bottle?

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Post by Rick »

Cool! The kdx stem needs to be pressed out, through the bottom. Get it, clamp on the bottom, pushing the stem out, through the bottom.. The kdx stem will be loose in the new kx bottom clamp. Just find a local machine shop. Show them the parts, and tell them u want to knurll the stem, to be tight in the clamp. They well prolly press it in 4 u. Just remember, there is a cir-clip on the bottom of the steering stem.
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1996 Suzuki DR 350 $Sold!
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Post by scheckaet »

not all clamp needs knurling, mine didn't. i let my local shop do the swap, for like 25 bux.
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Post by scheckaet »

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Post by Rick »

well, just in case!
Yes, they really do let me drive the Train!
1991 KDX 250 $Sold but not forgotten....
1996 Suzuki DR 350 $Sold!
2002 Honda CR 250 worth more than my house at this point........ :-)
2004 DR 650se Road Warrior
2002 DL1000 V-STROM
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Post by kicknrocks »

I like the dude who calls it "knurkling."

Everything on my conversion is '01, not that that helps nor harms my case.

so I want the stem to be slightly larger than the lower TT? what dimensional difference am I looking for, and what's the threshold for knurkling/not-knurkling?

Still looking for some info on that TT I bought (Applied), and what else will need swapped or be compatible on the front end. I assume the wheel and axle, but what about caliper and disc?
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