More KX Front Forks Questions.

Questions and comments about converting to beefier forks..
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jafo
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More KX Front Forks Questions.

Post by jafo »

It should'nt long before I get my front end. I have a couple more questions though. One, I understand that the KX stem comes out and the KDX stem is pressed into the new KX clamp, so you use the KDX bearings on the KDX stem right? The KX bearings will not fit correct?

Two, I was reading the topic Jason had on the stem swap. If I understand it correctly, you need to knurl the stem or the clamp? Does it matter?

I've never had the front end of a motorcycle apart, so what exactly holds it all together, the nut on top?

Jon
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Post by Indawoods »

Yes... use the KDX bearings since they will be mounted to a KDX using the KDX stem. The bottom KX bearing worked on mine...same size... so save it if it does. Top is much to large. The bottom clamp will need to be knurled. The whole thing should only run you in the $25 range at a machine shop.
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Post by KDXGarage »

The bottom bearings are exactly the same. The top bearings are different. Use the KDX upper bearing.

In some previous post I read from skipro3, he said the "knurling the stem option" was not as good as the "knurling the stem" option.

There may also be a need for a washer to make up for the difference in stem heights.

From what I have seen, there is one nut that is used to set the tension on the bearings, then another nut to hold the upper triple clamp to the stem.

I think that is how it goes. If that is not correct, skipro3 / IndaWoods / somebody set me straight.

EDIT: Unless your KDX bearings are worn out, just re-use them.
Last edited by Anonymous on 01:57 am Dec 02 2005, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Indawoods »

Sounds right to me KDX Angel!
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Post by KDXer »

I also was under the inpression that the "STEM" needs to be knurled rather than the clamp (being the stem is harder material). Now what sort of knurling is it?? ie diamond.. etc
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Post by Indawoods »

Not only is there the knurling done but also industrial strength Loc-Tite applied. There really in no way it could slip.

Read this:
http://kdx.woodsrider.net/viewtopic.php?t=146
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Post by KDXer »

Stem or clamp ???
I keep reading clamp but I have stem in my head.. :rolleyes:
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Post by jafo »

You have to knurl the clamp. I read the post for the complete conversion and have a good direction on what I'm doing. I fully understand the conversion, should'nt be a big deal. Just need to get the front end now, should be this week.

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Post by KDXGarage »

Cool. Let us know how it turns out. :cool:
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Post by KDXer »

I am wondering what type of knurling you guys used. Have a look here if your not sure what its called or for anyone who doesn't know how it works.

http://www.technologystudent.com/equip1/knurl1.htm
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Post by jafo »

Kat Dee Exer, thats one way to knurl. If your were to knurl the stem, that would proabably be the method. But from what I've read, your needing to knurl the lower clamp. This would use a different method. It's the same process that used to be used when rebuilding a set of engine heads. Instead of replacing the valve guides, they would use a knurling bit to raise the metal up on ridges. This takes out any play or excessive clearance on the inside diameter of the valve guide. The knurling bit is very simple, I have several in the tool box that my uncle used when he was turning wrenches. They are made out of a very hard steel dowl rod. They have goudges machined into them. I'm guessing on the method but I think they are pushed into a smaller diameter hole pushing the metal up into the goudges on the bit, but never the less it's an old concept that works well in this case. The diagram you have is for the oposite process, still knurling but knurling the rod not the clamp. Clamp would be a different process.

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Post by skipro3 »

That's right jafo. All the knurling tool does is reshape the metal from a smooth bore to a ridged bore. No metal is removed, just re-arranged. The reason the clamp is knurled is that most shops will have a set of knurling tools for doing a hole and not a shaft. If the shop you go to doesn't understand what you are talking about, then ask them about knurling done on pistons to keep the wrist pin from moving. That's right, several folks knurl that hole in the piston where we use a circlip to keep the wrist pin in place. The wrist pin is then pressed on to the piston instead of just using a circlip to hold things together.
Now, knurling the stem should be better since it is the harder of the two metals and would there fore reshape the soft aluminum of the clamp as the stem is pressed in, but really, it won't matter.

Ask that green locktite be used during the assembly of the stem to the clamp. It is designed to fill in larger gaps than blue or red loctite. I can't remember the gap it can fill but do a search or read the lable on the package at an auto parts store to find out.
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Post by KDXer »

Thanks everyone... Ski check your bank... :supz:
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Post by skipro3 »

Yup, got it! Too much! (Thanks!)
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Post by canyncarvr »

As ski noted earlier (other thread) ...it doesn't really make a hole (sic) lot of difference what the fit is of the stem-to-clamp as long as the stem isn't going to get pulled through the bottom clamp. It's the forks secured to the clamps that kind of holds the whole thing together. I used to think that the stem/clamp connection was hugely critical to keeping the front-end together..but it's not. It's more just a spacer to keep the clamps apart..and something to hold the bearings.
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Post by skipro3 »

It's also my opinion that the only reason the lower clamp is so tightly attached to the stem (20+ tons of pressure to press apart) is so the upper and lower clamps are sure to stay in somewhat alignment when taking moderate hits without getting out of plane.
Recall how, after a crash, your front wheel is tweaked out of shape and you need to stand in front of the bike, hold the wheel between your knees and jerk the bars in the opposite direction in order to straighten up the whole thing into alignment? Well, if that lower clamp could move on the stem then it would be even easier for the forks to tweak. I think it was CC who pointed out the torque of the bolts on the clamps used to hold the forks isn't that much, otherwise it could result in stiction in the tubes.

Remember, the clip on the stem is used only to keep the stem from being pressed too deep. If the clip wasn't there AND the stem was only pressed in as tight as the nut on top pulled it tight, then everything would still work and be safe. It would just tweak out easier on falls and crashes.

And that is the purpose of knurling a too loose fit clamp to stem. And that is the purpose of this rambling too. (Bet you were wondering what I was trying to get at!) You may still be wondering?! Ha! At least I still understand what I am trying to explain!
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