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I got my 97 KX 125 forks installed today, it really was not all that difficult. I am wondering where to start with the clickers, I thought I read that most have the compression full soft and how many out is full soft? I hate to keep turning and have something unthread or break.

It's like 15 clicks out....

saddletramp wrote: . . . I hate to keep turning and have something unthread or break.

The adjustment screws don't unthread, they just stop. Try it, you'll see.

saddletramp wrote:I got my 97 KX 125 forks installed today, it really was not all that difficult. I am wondering where to start with the clickers, I thought I read that most have the compression full soft and how many out is full soft? I hate to keep turning and have something unthread or break.

That was fast! How was the install?

I run my compression clickers all the way out but what do you guys run the rebound clickers at??

Install was easy, the fork re-build has got to be to hardest thing about the swap and you already did that. I still don't really get the jist of that KX axle, what's up with that axle nut? Wish I was going to Odessa, good luck. I did the ATV poker run last week-end and plan on doing the Wet Duck this mo.

The wet duck is a lot of fun, lots of good single track last year.

Not sure what you mean about the KX axle and nut???

FRYSPEED wrote:I run my compression clickers all the way out but what do you guys run the rebound clickers at??

What type of riding do you do?

I'm no expert at this - in fact I'm new at putting time into dialing in a suspension the right way - but I can give you some food for thought and show you where I've learned the most.

Inda's got a suspension "setup" sticky that's pretty good:

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1109

Here's more-or-less the same stuff but with a different angle (look over to the left side at the knowledge base links, lot's of great detail there if you would like to learn more):

http://brucessuspension.com/kb4.htm

You get the rebound set first, then compression. From the posts I've read many seem to run their compression all the way "out" so, granted, you may end up there as well. I'm 6 clicks from being all the way out on my rebound, and I'm actually about 3 clicks away from all the way out on the compression. But that's for my riding style/terrain/etc (and I'm still workin' on things).

Have fun exploring! Let us know what you end up doing . . .

RE: Axle nut, The KDX axle slides thru one leg then threads into the opposite side then is clamped in place. The KX axle nut is about half of the axle and there are clamps on both legs, just seems like to many parts to align or break. I guess I am used to having one side fixed and not having two ways to remove the wheel. Just took a little 20 min. ride friggin awesome.

^ wait 'till you start getting them dialed in, saddletramp . . .

I am sort of feeling like I have violated my lil KDX, but I will get over it. What's with the fuzz? might want to tap it a few times

Thanks for the links jeb.This will help me alot.

saddletramp wrote:I am sort of feeling like I have violated my lil KDX, but I will get over it. What's with the fuzz? might want to tap it a few times

Glad you like the forks! Mine felt pretty good in the Desert this weekend, the midvalve is still a bit too stiff for small high speed braking bumps and rocks.

I have my '98 KX250 forks' compression all the way out with the rebound about 3 clicks from the end -- although I'm not done tweaking.

I have the bike in the shop getting topend, tires, final drive, tires, etc done as well as getting the front forks R&R-ed. I asked the suspension guy (Palo Verde Suspension) about reducing the oil level a bit to give me some air smooshiness. He said he would look at spec for the fork and then guestimate the level for my weight (190 and continuing to fall to about 175 in two months), and terrain (rocks, rocks, rocks).

Rick

strider, for the HSC change oil brand and/or lighter wt. Or next time you have your forks apart take out one of the 25's in the HSC stack.

Thanks Brad, I did not have a chance yet to put the midvalve back to the way it should be (with the cup and o-ring). I still have those stiff spacers after the first portion of the HSC stack. So that maybe why it is still stiff. Do you think the bleeder shim will help with this (I don't have that in their either yet)?

The bleeder will definitely take out some of the high speed sharpness. It will feel like you have less air in the front tire the way it allows the fork to travel through that initial section. Your over-all set-up is not helping as you said. I used 3 different fork oil brands of the same advertised weight and they were significantly different. I went with the brand that made the rocks and roots most tolerable.

As for the original part of this thread, having adjusters maxed out either way would pretty much indicate a mis-valved or possibly damaged shock/fork. My ridin buddy’s YZ was maxed out full soft comp. on the forks and come to find out there was so much crap in the BV it was virtually plugged.