I don't see on the RT site any indication of the type of KYBs in different model KXs.
There seems to be a lot of complaint about the bladder type fork. Seems a common thing to disable the whole bladder idea with the removal of some internal seals:
Click HERE!
Most notably is this:
Considering the model years he mentions, I'd say we have been talking about bladder forks?Terry Hay wrote:Know Fear
For the type of riding you are doing the springs should be fine, but as you can gather from the content of this post there are a few issues internally. Firstly as a newcomer to the suspension game I would suggest we keep it simple. Firstly remove the bladder (Go Steve!) and the white sealing band from the cartridge. There is also a finely machined washer on the flange at the top of the cartridge where the spring seats. This inhibits oil flow to the lower portion of the fork. With the sealing band removed there is possibly no reason to touch this, but I remove it to ensure maximum flow and replace it with a normal spring preload washer that doesn't seal the area. I wouldn't recommend sitting the spring directly on the flange itself. If you don't have a preload washer you can drill a few holes in the machined one. Just make sure you leave no burrs. Run the oil level at 120mm from the top with the springs out and the fork completely compressed. The midvalve on that particular model has one of the worst production designs I have come across. In fact the 2000 KX fork should have seen Mr KAYABA and his team of designers firmly attached to the testicle clamp. You really need to address the midvalve and base valve to get the best out of this model for your application. Now that we have addressed the design issues I'm going to stop short of any valving recommendations as this conflicts with a lot of the guys on this forum. After all thats how they make their living.
Regards
Terry Hay
In which case...it seems they sucketh most large...and must needs be fixed!
Chuck the bladder!! Change the oil heighth?
Inda? Are you home?