Spacers, I think I see why they are needed...
- wanaride
- Supporting Member II
- Posts: 460
- Joined: 12:05 pm Dec 20 2004
- Country:
- Location: Salisbury, NC
Spacers, I think I see why they are needed...
I am "dry fitting" the KX front end on my KDX to get an idea how it will go back together.
- With the steering stem up through the frame
- A nut snugging up the stem & lower clamp up against the frame tube
- The upper clamp resting down on top of the stem
- The upper clamp stem nut is down as far as it can go
There is still about 6mm of space from the bottom of the upper clamp stem nut to the top of the triple clamp (I don't know how to post a pic here). In other words, the upper clamp stem nut cannot contact the upper triple clamp. Is this gap what you guys are talking about when you mention using washers/spacers?
I was thinking of taking the stem to Lowe's to look for washers to make up that gap. Is this too simple, or am I missing something else? Does it matter if the washers are above/below the upper clamp?
THANK YOU!
- With the steering stem up through the frame
- A nut snugging up the stem & lower clamp up against the frame tube
- The upper clamp resting down on top of the stem
- The upper clamp stem nut is down as far as it can go
There is still about 6mm of space from the bottom of the upper clamp stem nut to the top of the triple clamp (I don't know how to post a pic here). In other words, the upper clamp stem nut cannot contact the upper triple clamp. Is this gap what you guys are talking about when you mention using washers/spacers?
I was thinking of taking the stem to Lowe's to look for washers to make up that gap. Is this too simple, or am I missing something else? Does it matter if the washers are above/below the upper clamp?
THANK YOU!
I love someone with autism!
2006 KTM 250XCW
2003 KDX200
2006 CRF70
2006 KTM 50 Mini Adventure
2006 KTM 250XCW
2003 KDX200
2006 CRF70
2006 KTM 50 Mini Adventure
- stringburner
- Supporting Member III
- Posts: 221
- Joined: 06:18 pm Oct 12 2006
- Country:
Check out the photos in this thread and you'll get an idea of the spacer scenario: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3357
- krazyinski
- Member
- Posts: 461
- Joined: 12:26 pm Mar 10 2006
- Country:
- Location: San Antonio Texas
read and search this forum, read the sticky lad look at the gallery pics do your home work. then ask if your confused. not trying to be rude but the answers are here and they are all simple.
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
- wanaride
- Supporting Member II
- Posts: 460
- Joined: 12:05 pm Dec 20 2004
- Country:
- Location: Salisbury, NC
-
- Supporting Member II
- Posts: 1455
- Joined: 06:54 pm Aug 08 2005
- Country:
- Location: Orange County-New York
- Contact:
Yep, thats where you will ned to buld it up
"Growing Old is Mandatory, Growing Up is Optional"
2008 KLX450R
2008 DRZ400SM
2005 KDX 220R
1985 KDX 200A3
2005 KLX 125L (SONS)
2003 KTM 50SX Pro Jr
B Senior # 254/0092
http://sponsorhouse.loopd.com/Members/R ... fault.aspx
Thanks to my 2008 Sponsers:
Dunlop, SteelMX, Amsoil, Simpson, Pro Works Racing, Pro Moto Billet, SLAP Energy,Boyesen, Rhino Stands, SixSixOne/SunLine Moto for your support.
John W Read Jr
2008 KLX450R
2008 DRZ400SM
2005 KDX 220R
1985 KDX 200A3
2005 KLX 125L (SONS)
2003 KTM 50SX Pro Jr
B Senior # 254/0092
http://sponsorhouse.loopd.com/Members/R ... fault.aspx
Thanks to my 2008 Sponsers:
Dunlop, SteelMX, Amsoil, Simpson, Pro Works Racing, Pro Moto Billet, SLAP Energy,Boyesen, Rhino Stands, SixSixOne/SunLine Moto for your support.
John W Read Jr
- skipro3
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4329
- Joined: 11:58 pm Nov 04 2004
- Country:
- Location: BANNED FOR LIFE!!
- Contact:
- canyncarvr
- Gold Member
- Posts: 6943
- Joined: 01:07 pm Nov 05 2004
- Country: US
- Location: The Mythical State of Jefferson
This maybe too late..but, here it is anyway.
There are some washers for 'ya.
Yes, it matters where you put them.
Consider, if the washers are UNDER the clamp the clamp will be spaced UP. That will allow you to position the forks further UP, and you need to do that to make the longer KX forks fit..to make the bike 'level' as it was before you started.
If you put the washers ON TOP of the clamp you will NOT be able to position the forks as high. There will be interference with the handlebars.
You will likely find that your KX forks need to be a good 1/2" UP in the clamps to make the bike LEVEL.
If it's NOT level, you will find the front end 'all of a sudden' too light. The front end is going to be coming up when you least want it to, like trying to get UP a hill.
You can click on the 'gallery' link below in my signature to see other KX fork pics if you wish.
You DID check the level of your bike before you started...right?
Okey Dokey?
There are some washers for 'ya.
Yes, it matters where you put them.
Consider, if the washers are UNDER the clamp the clamp will be spaced UP. That will allow you to position the forks further UP, and you need to do that to make the longer KX forks fit..to make the bike 'level' as it was before you started.
If you put the washers ON TOP of the clamp you will NOT be able to position the forks as high. There will be interference with the handlebars.
You will likely find that your KX forks need to be a good 1/2" UP in the clamps to make the bike LEVEL.
If it's NOT level, you will find the front end 'all of a sudden' too light. The front end is going to be coming up when you least want it to, like trying to get UP a hill.
You can click on the 'gallery' link below in my signature to see other KX fork pics if you wish.
You DID check the level of your bike before you started...right?
Okey Dokey?
Last edited by canyncarvr on 03:27 pm Dec 19 2006, edited 1 time in total.
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!
- Indawoods
- Creator and Founder
- Posts: 9951
- Joined: 09:59 am Jun 12 2003
- Country:
- Location: Midwest
You said you were going to clean out that grease CC....
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- canyncarvr
- Gold Member
- Posts: 6943
- Joined: 01:07 pm Nov 05 2004
- Country: US
- Location: The Mythical State of Jefferson
Sometimes it pays to forget stuff....
Besides, that's an OLD picture!! It's all MUCH messier..er...I mean cleaner now!
I've had my bike upside down enough times that the fuel dumped inside the stem has cleaned all that up real good.
Thank you for watching out for me!! I appreciate it!
Besides, that's an OLD picture!! It's all MUCH messier..er...I mean cleaner now!
I've had my bike upside down enough times that the fuel dumped inside the stem has cleaned all that up real good.
Thank you for watching out for me!! I appreciate it!
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!
- wanaride
- Supporting Member II
- Posts: 460
- Joined: 12:05 pm Dec 20 2004
- Country:
- Location: Salisbury, NC
I did check the "level" of my bike before I started. I even took a buncha pictures too!
I have the KDX stem nut (alone) under the clamp, and I have two 7/8" SAE flat washers + KDX stem washer + KX stem washer on top of the clamp. Using Ski's tutorial as a guide, I have the KX forks 1/2" above the upper triple clamp right now. (I'll check final geometry measurements when I get the bike off the stand.) It looks like the handlebars will fit without bumping against the fork compression adjusters too.
It seemed to me that using the KX stem nut or other type of spacer UNDER the clamp raises the clamp so that it mates with the stem towards the top of the stem. The top of the stem is slightly narrower there, so using a spacer under the clamp increases the need for shim stock to make up the gap between the clamp and the stem in the clamp hole area.
By just using the KDX stem nut under the clamp, the clamp rides lower on the stem, and the stem is slightly fatter in that area. To me, it seemed like this approach minimized the need for shim stock, so I'm trying to go without it. The fit isn't that sloppy. We'll see...
CC, in case I need to punt and use your approach, what size/type of washers are you using under your clamp? My 7/8" SAE flat washers wouldn't slide down the stem to mate with the KDX stem nut, and I didn't want to force them or put pressure on them for fear of messing up the stem threads.
I have the KDX stem nut (alone) under the clamp, and I have two 7/8" SAE flat washers + KDX stem washer + KX stem washer on top of the clamp. Using Ski's tutorial as a guide, I have the KX forks 1/2" above the upper triple clamp right now. (I'll check final geometry measurements when I get the bike off the stand.) It looks like the handlebars will fit without bumping against the fork compression adjusters too.
It seemed to me that using the KX stem nut or other type of spacer UNDER the clamp raises the clamp so that it mates with the stem towards the top of the stem. The top of the stem is slightly narrower there, so using a spacer under the clamp increases the need for shim stock to make up the gap between the clamp and the stem in the clamp hole area.
By just using the KDX stem nut under the clamp, the clamp rides lower on the stem, and the stem is slightly fatter in that area. To me, it seemed like this approach minimized the need for shim stock, so I'm trying to go without it. The fit isn't that sloppy. We'll see...
CC, in case I need to punt and use your approach, what size/type of washers are you using under your clamp? My 7/8" SAE flat washers wouldn't slide down the stem to mate with the KDX stem nut, and I didn't want to force them or put pressure on them for fear of messing up the stem threads.
I love someone with autism!
2006 KTM 250XCW
2003 KDX200
2006 CRF70
2006 KTM 50 Mini Adventure
2006 KTM 250XCW
2003 KDX200
2006 CRF70
2006 KTM 50 Mini Adventure
- canyncarvr
- Gold Member
- Posts: 6943
- Joined: 01:07 pm Nov 05 2004
- Country: US
- Location: The Mythical State of Jefferson
Re: what size
I took the stem to the hardware store, mucked around the washer bins until I found something that suited me.
Not much help, 'eh?
I believe they are FENDER washers, though. Not your general one-each washers that are meant to go with general one-each bolts and nuts.
To use or not use shimstock is the secondary question. The top clamp must be placed such that the forks can be set to the correct height. If that means you need shim stock (bushing, spacer or some other device) then th'ar 'ya go!
Most KX forks are considerably longer than the KDX forks. Set the top clamp too low, and you will not be able to get your bike 'level'. That will stink most large.
Personally anecdotal and all...but, even with the spacers used as shown on my '99 KX250 forks, my tubes are up over 1/2". AND...the bottom of the top clamp is JUST BARELY sitting on a narrowed section of the fork tube. My install would be better (the top clamp getting a FULL bite of tube) if the top clamp was even FURTHER up. But, the stem did not allow me to do that. You can see that by the top nut. It is threaded onto the stem fully, but there's nothin' of the stem (spare threads) sticking out!
I took the stem to the hardware store, mucked around the washer bins until I found something that suited me.
Not much help, 'eh?
I believe they are FENDER washers, though. Not your general one-each washers that are meant to go with general one-each bolts and nuts.
To use or not use shimstock is the secondary question. The top clamp must be placed such that the forks can be set to the correct height. If that means you need shim stock (bushing, spacer or some other device) then th'ar 'ya go!
Most KX forks are considerably longer than the KDX forks. Set the top clamp too low, and you will not be able to get your bike 'level'. That will stink most large.
Personally anecdotal and all...but, even with the spacers used as shown on my '99 KX250 forks, my tubes are up over 1/2". AND...the bottom of the top clamp is JUST BARELY sitting on a narrowed section of the fork tube. My install would be better (the top clamp getting a FULL bite of tube) if the top clamp was even FURTHER up. But, the stem did not allow me to do that. You can see that by the top nut. It is threaded onto the stem fully, but there's nothin' of the stem (spare threads) sticking out!
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!