KDXRIDER.NET

Rick the upper brackets for the headlight will bolt on to the KX triples and just Ziptye the lower to the fork legs. of course you can order some rubber straps for an acerbis light or KLX light.

Ah... that's my problem.

Mine has been modded by QuailChaser to accomodate the WER stabilizer. I'm going to head to the bike shop this morning to see if I can get some KLX rubbers.

--Edit-- The KLX rubbers were $38 a set. I think I'll pass on them.

Rick

I did my first semi-serious ride on the new tubes.

Probably about ten miles of particularly tight ST with lots of ups and down in and out of small washes, and then another ten miles of whooped-out jeep trail.

The front end performed very well. It soaked up some large hits and one very big hit that I would have chipped a tooth with the old KDX. It did the ST well but my rear end would sometimes out-climb my front end on jumps. I slowed the rebound down two clicks from center and that took care of it, with the front end tending to rise a bit higher on jumps. I might speed it up one click... or just keep it there for a while.

Ladys and Gentlemen... This Mod Is Done.

Rick
(Well, except for the light and stuff)

Awesome!

The rubber straps from UFO work well on the stock light shroud. you just take the stock brackets off the shroud and poke the nipples through put soap on 'em first to make it easy. I actually like the rubber mount method better than the stock one now. I got mine from the dude that Inda has listed on his links page, Kevin's Cycle.

Inda, where is your links page?

I took another ride this morning with a slighlty differnent mix of jeep/ST/2T/and sand wash.

I've found that the new tubes handle a slew of softball-sized rocks nicely as well.

Rick

Pretty large difference for the (minimal) amount of work it takes to complete the conversion eh?

Links page is a link at the top of the page titled "LINKS"

I couldn't have spent my $$ mo betta.

http://www.kevinscycleracing.com/

UFO HEAD LIGHT STRAPS Set of four straps. Fits all UFO head lights except the Rally and Explorer models. $15.95


UFO HEAD LIGHT STRAPS Fits the Explorer and Rally Models. Set of four. $8.95

Kevin's always has the hard to find stuff....

get the top one.

I'll let you know when I get them. I ordered them last nite.

Rick

I hit a minor snag today. I was invited to do some *very* technical ST at Sycamore Creek east of Phoenix this morning. The ST was fine. But it was interspersed amongst a few of what I would have normally considered not particulary difficult hill climbs.

My front end kept rising up on the hill climbs. It was quite difficult to keep it down if for some reason I was out of position and not over the handle bars.

I figured I had to bump up my sag or something. When I got back to the staging area and on solid (not sandy) ground, I noticed that I was sitting on the bike with my boots flat-footed. I'm normally on my tippy-toes.

This could get interesting if I have to re-crank the spring a bit taughter and I mess up static or race sag to compensate for the front forks.

I think I recall reading this heare before, but what's the absolute minimum for static and race sag for a KDX modded to KX?

Thanks,

Rick

I have never heard of an "absolute". The numbers I go by are 25 -35 mm static on the rear with the target of a race sag between 90 -100 mm. If 20 mm still gets you within the 90 -100 then it should be good. Once you get below about 20 mm static and your race sag is still between 90 -100 then that shows too weak of a spring. Front race sag would be 30% of total travel or around 70 mm.

I've noticed that my front wheel has drifted a few degrees to the left during this ride. I had the upper and lower T-clamp bolts snugged to 10 ft-lbs as per CC's instructions on not to torque the lowers more than 10.

I can't find any specific torque settings for the 98 KX250. My KDX (a 200 manual, which had thicker bolts), specifies 14.5 lbs on top and 18 on bottom. No help there.

Thanks,

Rick

Only use those figures for the lowers. Tops should be 14-18lbs.

I've reduced the static sag from 1.5" down to 1".

Race sag is still about 3", maybe a bit less. I'll test that out next
weekend.

Too keep the front end down, I might reduce the squish up the fork settings a bit. Make it compress a tad faster (more compliant) and make it rebound a tad slower.

Rick

Increasing the rear comp will slow the front lifting as well. But as said before, incorrect rider position and weighting too far back, like sitting, can be way more detrimental causing a light front end and all around poor handling characteristics.

An out of whack rear race sag also puts the swing arm at an improper angle. This will create acceleration and deceleration problems.

The rubber bungees arrived a few days ago and I intalled them (top and bottom) on the light faring. They are the exact same dimensions as the original KDX bungees. In fact, I think they are direct replacements.

I just had to stretch them more over the larger KX top section. This means they won't last as long, I 'spose.

Rick

uh, KDX don't have "original KDX bungees" , they gots brackets and bolts. Glad they worked though.

Hmmm.

Well, QuailChaser "modified" (hacked) the faring to allow the WER stabilizer to fit. His fabbed unit had bent and rotated Home Depot brackets (metal strap) bolted to the bottom pinch bolts and bungees on top. I got rid of the metal straps I put bungees top and bottom.

Looks like I continue to blaze new trails.

Rick