KX fork oil question!

Questions and comments about converting to beefier forks..
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Indawoods
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KX fork oil question!

Post by Indawoods »

How much???? How much should I buy to make sure I have enough? I bought 2 quarts of Honda HP 5wt fork oil for Showa and KYB forks and want to know if this is enough. The stuff is over $12 a quart and the guy told me I only need a little over a quart for both forks..... sounds a little low to me.

AND.... what are you measuring to? 140mm or more (meaning less oil)
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Post by Indawoods »

I think I found the answer here:

http://www.kawasakisportscenter.com/2003_suspension.htm

Unless someone knows a trick or two about it!
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Post by KDXGarage »

GET A MANUAL

:lol:

Bigger tubes = bigger internal pieces/parts.

I know my '93/'94 KDX200 took slightly less than one liter to change the oil in both legs (less than .5 L per leg).

Oh wait, You wanted to know about your forks. Check the http://www.racetech.com website and it will list how many quarts of oil you need.

One last thing:

GET A MANUAL

:lol:
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Post by Indawoods »

For forks.... NAH!
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Post by canyncarvr »

HIJACK!

I've never serviced or messed with USD forks...are they pretty much similar to conventional forks as far as take-apart/assembly? Only kind'a similar? Not too much? Not at all?

Huh?

I gather fork oil measurement..given as a mm figure is measured the same way?

No...I don't need to know. I'm garnering knowledge for my future USDs!

I have no tricks...but you might..

GET A MANUAL!

Consider the source
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Post by KDXGarage »

From what I have read in various service manuals and various internet sites (including here), my '93/'94 KDX200 forks seem extremely similar internally compared to H model forks. I know on the H model conventional forks, a 27mm nut is used to keep the cartridge from spinning. On USD forks, a castle nut style tool is usually used.

I don't think there is a whole lot to KDX forks, so that may be why they don't work so well compared to more advanced/complicated designs.

The KX forks are more complicated and get more and more complicated as you approach the current version (rebound damping, midvalves, bladder forks, bumper forks and now twin chamber).

I can't speak on how fork oil is measured on the 2004 down to mid '90's fork oil is checked, but I think the 2005 twin chamber have oil in two separate chambers, if they are like Showa (why else would they call them twin chamber style? I guess).

Indawoods: Why spend $300, $400, whatever it cost you, then not spend a few more to make sure you don't mess them up before you even take your first ride?? It didn't sound like you ever fooled with your KDX forks much (never got the springs in, so it sounds like you may have never changed the oil in them). Good luck with it, either way you go, though.
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Post by Indawoods »

Because the few more, few more, and few mores end up being hundreds of dollars that I am sick of spending.... that's why. And they are forks! Not a motor... not exactly rocket science and I have a bookmark at home on how to service these shocks and how to install gold valves... a few extra bucks... :lol:

Jason... it's not my first rodeo with KDX's.... My 92 forks were messed with... and yes... by me. Changed the springs and oil...even made the spacers... WOW! And before that my KTM... and BTW... a lot more complicated than any KDX's forks. Asking for an oil measurement isn't asking how to service them.
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Post by KDXGarage »

My bad. I was thinking you would service them at some point, and it would come in handy for the forks, brakes, wheel, whatever you bought.

Good luck with it.
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Post by Indawoods »

A lot of this stuff is pretty straight forward if you have ever worked on your own cars, bikes and motorcycles growing up. And yes... they will be serviced at the prescribed intervals or when extreme duty dictates it. I don't think that the wheels, brakes, and bearings are that much different than a KDX's to require a manual (WHICH I HAVE AND USE). If I'm wrong... tell me. But why spend $30 to service forks when the information is redily available on the internet. If I would have bought and entire KX... or even a motor... then definately...
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Post by KDXGarage »

If you are just going to do a regular oil change, then the MX Tuner article, MX Tech article,etc. will be good. One thing to consider is that the forks might benefit from being at the least, mostly disassembled, for a decent cleaning and inspection. A regular oil change will not get all the tiny bits of metal and gunk out of all the valving and other nooks and crannies.

The manual might have been helpful on torque readins for brake pin bolts, axle mounting, etc.
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Post by Indawoods »

The bookmark I have for Kayaba fork servicing is not from the link I posted earlier... I will post the service link tonight when I get home. I think you will find it pretty complete... or at least it seems that way... :grin:
Last edited by Indawoods on 01:14 pm Feb 01 2005, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by KDXGarage »

I didn't catch any service link earlier. I have read about a jillion pages on forks and shocks, so I may have already seen it. If you can tell me what color background, how long it is, or something like that, I may be able to find it, if it is one I have already read. If it is not one I have already read, then I would be glad to read it (or any other info).

Thanks.
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Post by Indawoods »

Here it is Jason....

http://www.motocross.com/motoprof/moto/ ... ybfrk.html

Look familiar?
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Post by KDXGarage »

Yep. I have read that one a few times. It is a good article. Check out the MX Tech website for another article. It may or may not apply to your forks.
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Post by Indawoods »

I asked the author if I could use it on this site. Awaiting a reply...
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Post by skipro3 »

Did you ever get an answer to your question? If not, then repost what forks you have ended up with. It is my advise that whenever an option between a specific amount or a specific level is given, then go with the level. I have a tool that is used to set the oil level in the fork tube. It looks like a big hypodermic with a slide-like thing used as a stop to rest against the rim of the fork tube. You start by overfilling the fork with oil, then sucking out the amount needed with the hypo devise that is inserted into the fork tube set at a specific depth.
Remember, some forks oil levels are measured with the spring and some with the spring removed. Mine are done with the spring removed and the fork compressed. (I think.... Race Tech did it last time for me when they stuck the goldvalves in.)
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Post by Indawoods »

Ski... Mine are 03 KX125 forks... as I can tell by the stock .42 springs. By Team Greens chart, these should be measured to 120mm with springs removed and bottomed. Also by Team Greens specs... they should be 10mm above the top clamp when mounted. So they should be pretty close to stock specs when mounted... I plan to drop the clamp a tad more if needed. The clamp does not hit the tank either I am happy to find. About 1/16th clearance though... :wink:

I plan to run these stock for a year and then do the Gold Valves.... I only have so much money! :lol:
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Post by m0rie »

Hey Ski, I'm curious - Was there a noticable difference in the forks after the Gold Valve install? If so was it as noticable as going from stock forks to KX forks?

-Maurice
1989 KDX 200
2007 TTR-50E
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Post by skipro3 »

Indawoods wrote:I plan to drop the clamp a tad more if needed. The clamp does not hit the tank either I am happy to find. About 1/16th clearance though... :wink:

I plan to run these stock for a year and then do the Gold Valves.... I only have so much money! :lol:
I couldn't drop mine but about 5mm due to the forward mounting of my bars. As it is, I would have to take the bars off or drop the forks in order to make the adjustments on the top of the fork cap. Not really a problem since I have found the sweet spot for the adjustment, but it does make the front a tad lighter than the rear. I'm going to make some shorter dogbones for the shock to raise it as well, thereby rebalancing out the front to rear angles. In fact, I have been playing with designing an adjustable dogbone. It will work like the rear chain adjuster on the swing arm. So far, I have found that 1/8" shorter will raise the rear suspension 2 inches. maybe a cam-type bolt / hole for one of the ends could do the trick. Then with a quick twist of the bolt, one could change the seat height by up to 4 inches. Or, or, a handlebar mounted hydraulic control so you could adjust rear seat height on the fly!!!! Ahhhhhhh!!!! :shock: (oh! that felt good!)

One more thing, that 1/16th inch clearance can change. Take your tank breather hose and "inflate" your tank by puffing into it. Then check clearance. This will be the same on a hot day as the fuel vaporizes in the tank and can't vent quickly through the restricter valve in the tank breather tube.
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Post by skipro3 »

m0rie wrote:Hey Ski, I'm curious - Was there a noticable difference in the forks after the Gold Valve install? If so was it as noticable as going from stock forks to KX forks?

-Maurice
Not really. Kind of like a steering dampner. You start to notice things like; not tired as quickly, not crashing as much, big hits don't make clunking noises, etc. At first I was disappointed as I went from .38 to .43 or .44 springs and that DID make a difference in cushiness. Small rocks on fire roads were much more noticeable. But, pick up the speed and hit them harder, and the suspension starts to sing a merry little tune. Also, the racetech fork seals I had installed are much heavier units and caused quite a bit of sticktion until they broke in. (Break in took about 400 miles!!)

After riding, I think to myself how hard the terrain was to cover compaired to past experiance. Then, thinking the trail was easier, I inspect the "wipe" marks on the fork tubes, (can't do THAT with stock KDX forks!) and see that I was within 1/4" of bottoming the suspension. Obviously, if I am using all that travel with .44 springs, those forks are doing SOMETHING, and doing it in a fast enough manner that I perseive the terrain as easier than before. The only thing that explains it, is the larger gold valves and increased oil flow.
Jerry

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