Shims on my forks

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » 05:25 am May 05 2006

Alright, i got my forks last night and i zipped them apart to get the base vavles out.

Here is what they look like. I could tell someone revavled it because i did not have the grind the top of the base vavle to get the nut off, someone already did it.

Here is my vavle, does it look stock? the reason i am asking is because it looks way differnt than my 94's vavle.

http://img127.imagevenue.com/img.php?lo ... _valve.jpg

ANd here is the order of the shims, does it look like they are still set up for motocross or are they set up for trail riding. If they are not set up for trail riding please let me know because i am going to bring them to my shop tonight. Thanks

http://img121.imagevenue.com/img.php?lo ... _shims.jpg

IdahoCharley · Post by **IdahoCharley** » 10:38 am May 05 2006

So what are these forks from - year and model? Do you know the spring rate - aftermarket springs are usually stamped on one of the ends - sometimes it takes a little scotchbright pad to get the numbers to stand out if the springs are oxidized a little.

Looks like a non-standard (screwy) set-up unless you have a mid-valve set-up with a lot of float. Piston picture is out of focus.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » 11:25 am May 05 2006

not sure, i dont think they have a mid vavle as they are 99 forks. They were revavled before because i got the nut off without fileing the threads down. I think they are stock springs, but i have .36 springs i am going to put in them.

What does it look like they were st up for?? thanks

IdahoCharley · Post by **IdahoCharley** » 12:32 pm May 05 2006

Suggestion/Question/Logic - Why not just reassmble - install the .36 springs and new oil and give us some feedback?

P.S. Regarding not having a mid-valve because they were 99 forks - this does not make sense to me? Just because they originally came stock without a midvalve does not mean they don't have one now; especially considering that base valve set-up you pictured. i.e. You really do not know if they have a mid-valve or not based upon year. Suggest going back to Suggestion/Question/Logic and give the forks a try prior to changing. (Maybe the person knew what they were doing when they revalved the forks - or maybe not!)

Green Hornet · Post by **Green Hornet** » 12:57 pm May 05 2006

99-01 have MID VALVES & BLADDER. Depending on a 125 or 250, stock spring would be .41 & .43
My mid valve was removed for woods application. Since yours were worked on that might be the case also.

IdahoCharley · Post by **IdahoCharley** » 03:39 pm May 05 2006

Green Hornet - that makes more sense to me (Mid-valve and badder comment). A mid-valve could certainly have a BV along the lines of what Ryan has. Don't know enough about the effects of a bladder within a fork leg so I'll likely be of no use on helping Ryan.

What I could make out in the blurry picture looked like it might be a high flow valve (aftermarket?) but then again I don't know what the stock piston in the KX forks looked like during the "bladder" years.

Bottom Line - without attempting to ride the forks we will never know what "problem" we are fixing.

You only really know the best forks you've ridden verses the best set-up forks for the application.

bradf · Post by **bradf** » 04:40 pm May 05 2006

Disabling the mid-valve and replacing with a check-valve does not need to done. The MV has a function and removing the face shim works wonders. Along with some other simple mods.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » 06:15 pm May 05 2006

ya thats the reason i took a picture of the vavle, because it seemed like it was pretty open (alot of flow) like you said. I will furthure disassemble my forks tonight to see if they have mid vavles and or bladders. I will let you all know. The reason why im not riding them like they were is because they all ready didnt come with oil and they needed seals. So i figured since i am taking them apart why not at least get a starting point. WEll i should be able to update soon.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » 06:56 pm May 05 2006

well i went to get the mid vavles off and i stripped the threads, i thought i filed it down good enough but i guess not. A new rod is $408 x2 is way more than i want. Ebay.... for new forks i guess.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » 07:58 pm May 05 2006

apon further review i am going to take the rods, with the base vavles to my shop. Should i have them install new checkplates or should i keep the midvalves. And as far a bladder, I dont think i have one but them again i dont know what they look like. Could someone possibly tell me were a bladder would be located?? thanks

Green Hornet · Post by **Green Hornet** » 08:09 am May 06 2006

Ryan are the threads stripped?? If so you may be able to use a Tap & Die set to save yourself money. Also, why do you have to F#$K with things, before you even know how it works. I understand being young, I was once

, but the poeple here give you advise and it goes in one ear and out the other. Find out how things work for you, before trying to get them to work the way you think

bradf · Post by **bradf** » 10:19 am May 06 2006

The bladder is a black rubber tube that fits over the cartridge assy. It's about 18" long. If it is missing it is a sure sign someone has tried to mod the forks. There is more that needs to be done to properly eliminate the bladder though. After you run a die over the rod, replace the nut.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » 02:31 pm May 06 2006

Alright, i brought them to my shop, and they said that they would not be able to get the nut tight enough if they fixed it. The threads are pretty mashed. They said they will call factory connect and they said they should be able to get just the tips as they are screwed onto the rod. If they are under $80 for both im gonna just get the tips.
If it is more, im gonna get anther set of 99-01's.

AS far as Green Hornets remark, i really dont apreiciate what you said. I dont go just tearring into things. I have read on how to disassmble them many times on this site though the link Indy provided. I could probably quote it more than anyone elese. Ive taken apart 4 base vavles and have not had a problem. The mids looked and are the "same" in most respects of disassembly. I may not be older so i may not have respect in that area but im not stupid when it comes to bikes. I ask questions if i dont know something. I didnt ask about the mid vavles because they come apart like the BV's and i know how to take the BV's apart. After owning 6 bikes in 5 years and tearing down 4 completly to the frame a have a general if not upper level of knowledge on bike repair. Yes i did brake the Mid valves. This i take full responsibitly for but did i know what i was doing yes. Stuff happens sometimes.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » 02:34 pm May 06 2006

Brad, as far as the bladders, are you sure the 99's had them.. I cant see any evidence of them.

Im not sure if you have been to http://www.tech-care.com but they show that the bladders didnt start untill 2000.

bradf · Post by **bradf** » 03:04 pm May 06 2006

Ryan I don't know what years had them positively 100% other than 00 and my 01's. But it is very common to group 99-01's as being identical so I would guess 99's had them. If you stick with 99-01's I'll give you the shim and mod info on how to make them work in a more broad range than most expect out of these Kayabas.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » 05:29 pm May 06 2006

alright, that would be really cool. Thanks

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » 05:31 pm May 06 2006

another reason i think they dont have the bladders, if you look at new pivotworks fork rebuild kits 99 is all by itself, then it is 00-01 leading to bealieve something is differnt, probably the fact that there is no bladders.

Green Hornet · Post by **Green Hornet** » 08:17 am May 07 2006

Listen Ryan, did you try the forks to see what might need to be done???NO. Did you know how they worked and if they needed and what adjustments you MIGHT have needed, before tearing down. This is not about tearing down suspension & I don't care how much you've read about doing it, DOING IT & READING ABOUT IT ARE TWO DIFFERENT THINGS. The remark was not to offend you, but its an accurate remark and sometimes the truth hurts. If I was interested in tearing into you I would not have mentioned the Tap & Die, to save yourself some $$. Relax, Ryan, if you're getting stressed now, wait till ya grow up.
Also, you're from NY, you should have thicker skin

"I may not be older so i may not have respect in that area but im not stupid when it comes to bikes"
I was not implying you were stupid and this is not a respect thing. My point, learn how things will work for you, instead of how you think they will work for you & go from there.
Yup, Stuff breaks, things happen, think about what I said Ryan

Green Hornet · Post by **Green Hornet** » 08:19 am May 07 2006

bradf wrote:Ryan I don't know what years had them positively 100% other than 00 and my 01's. But it is very common to group 99-01's as being identical so I would guess 99's had them. If you stick with 99-01's I'll give you the shim and mod info on how to make them work in a more broad range than most expect out of these Kayabas.

The Kawasaki site has the 99 -01 as the same part #'s, etc. So Ryan your forks should have them.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » 09:34 am May 07 2006

the reason i didnt ride with them first was because i know the springs are too stiff for me now anyway. Thats why i bought some .36's. I am not good at suspension tuning. WEll at least i dont think i am. ive never done it before. My bike right now is in my basement because i tore it down and have been rebuilding, cleaning and replacing every needed part. I just placed my final order for parts which will be here this week. My rear wheel is at the shop getting the rotor off. The last owner some how mashed the rotor bolts into the rotor and i could not get them off. I should have the parts this week. If i waited and rode the suspesion like it was and then vavled it would probably be at least a month before it would be right. Im gonna try to get it as right as i can without riding it and then go from there. I start races soon and i am trying not to lose to much time working on the suspension while still making it better than my kdx suspension.

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Shims on my forks

Shims on my forks