The final posting.

Questions and comments about converting to beefier forks..
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Ryan
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The final posting.

Post by Ryan »

Ok here are my options, giving me your opinion would be great. I have pretty much 3 choices. I can get a pair of 97 kx125 forks with guards and the axel for $80. They need new seals but the guy is giving me new seals. They also need a triple tree which i can get for $50. Or i can buy 97 kx250 forks, the guy said recently rebuild, comes with guards and does not need seals.

Im not sure which to get. Also do you think i should pick one of these forks up or should i wait for a pair from 98-01. Thanks for your opinions.
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Post by Ryan »

well the guy with the 97 kx250 forks said he does not know the spring rate. The last guy who owned it he said was 160-170. He also said they were set up for woods riding. Are these worth getting or should i wait for a newer piar?? thanks again.
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Post by Indawoods »

Just buy some already! Anything is going to be better than what you have!
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Post by Ryan »

FINE FINE FINE hmm, maybe i will go buy some forks.
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Post by Ryan »

i think i will try to get the ones set up for woods riding. That way no revavling is needed. Only new springs.
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Post by Indawoods »

If you take his word for it.... some people will say anything to make a sale.
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Post by Ryan »

true, but if he is lying i can just return them, he has a return policy. He doesnt havve that good of feedback, he only has 14 feedback and one was negative.
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Post by Indawoods »

So, your going to mount them... go out riding... unmount them and return them?

You got alot more energy than me....
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Post by Ryan »

No i will take them apart and see if they have differnt vavles like he said they did. Will the gold vavles look different than the stock vavles??
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Post by KDXer »

Umm yep. They look, well, GOLD... :wink:
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Post by Indawoods »

They don't have to be Gold Valves to be valved for woods. Mine are valved for woods and they are the stock valves.
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Post by Ryan »

well then i will take them apart and take pics and then you all can tell me if they are set up for the woods :grin:
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Post by IdahoCharley »

Ryan - why would you not want to install the new forks first and then ride it?

Adjust the clickers as necessary and make note any problems that you have with the forks: Then, if necessary, pull the forks down.

No one here is going to be able to tell you wether or not you have a good wood's setting for the area you ride and your riding style - but you. Some of the people here can likely tell you if you are still valved stock or have in fact been revalved. Probably those same people can say - 'yep its a stock piston' or 'yep its not a stock piston' or maybe even - 'its a Factory Connection, mx-tech or Pro Circuit or Gold Valve piston. However - no matter what is currently in the forks only you can say whether or not they "work well" for you.

You have fork height options, spring options, pre-load options, oil visc. options, oil level options, bottoming cone options, shimming options on the rebound, mid-valve, compression pistons in addition to compression/rebound piston options from various manufactures to name a few.

IMHO if your not riding beyond the ability of the stock forks properly set-up for you at this time:you may well fustrate yourself to no end in your attempt to set-up your bike with different forks and wonder down the road -Why did I do this in the first place? :?
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Post by Colorado Mike »

>|<>QBB<
IdahoCharley wrote:Ryan - why would you not want to install the new forks first and then ride it?

Adjust the clickers as necessary and ....

Good points Charley, Sounds eerily familiar..like about 4 freaking times!!! Ryan, if you don't just get yourself some %@*$ing forks and ride them, a number of members here are going to form a secret society to fund the purchase of a large number of crystal meth-addicted monkeys with weapons-grade butt gas to infest your house.

I applaud your thirst for knowledge, and your desire to have it perfect from the start. Sadly, there is no magic formula, so you'll have to see what sucks and what doesn't for your particular situation. This forum has already done us a great service by enlightening us with the notion that the forks can be changed at all, and the basics on what to do. The rest is up to us. Let go of your dreams of initial perfection... embrace the darkness and bewilderment... become a bumbler like the rest of us..we are calling.
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Post by Green Hornet »

>|<>QBB<
IdahoCharley wrote:Ryan - why would you not want to install the new forks first and then ride it?

Adjust the clickers as necessary and make note any problems that you have with the forks: Then, if necessary, pull the forks down.

No one here is going to be able to tell you wether or not you have a good wood's setting for the area you ride and your riding style - but you. Some of the people here can likely tell you if you are still valved stock or have in fact been revalved. Probably those same people can say - 'yep its a stock piston' or 'yep its not a stock piston' or maybe even - 'its a Factory Connection, mx-tech or Pro Circuit or Gold Valve piston. However - no matter what is currently in the forks only you can say whether or not they "work well" for you.

You have fork height options, spring options, pre-load options, oil visc. options, oil level options, bottoming cone options, shimming options on the rebound, mid-valve, compression pistons in addition to compression/rebound piston options from various manufactures to name a few.

IMHO if your not riding beyond the ability of the stock forks properly set-up for you at this time:you may well fustrate yourself to no end in your attempt to set-up your bike with different forks and wonder down the road -Why did I do this in the first place? :?

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Post by Ryan »

well i know waht your all saying, im not trying to find the perfect set of forks im trying to get as close as possible. As far as not suiting me. Maybe some would say they wont, some will. Most of the time i am riding 4th gear and up on trails, I ride fast and will be jumping the bike a bit, not too much but a bit this summer. I think im gonna try to get these forks because they are somewhat set up for the woods.

Will i put them on and take them off? Of course, do i want to do it alot, no. Im gonna put in new springs .36 for me (140 pounds, and im gonna see how they work, while they are apart, im gonna post pics, that way you all can tell me what has been done to them if anything. yes it is a learing experience. Finances are becoming less of a problem so any modifications that are neccesary will be easier for me to make. I am goning to try to get the forks and work from there.
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Post by jafo »

Ryan Dude, get either ones. I personaly would'nt take his word for it that naything is anything other than what they came off of. You need to set the forks up for yourself and the only way your gonna know what you got is to do it yourself. Don't rely on what some of what these guys are telling you. If the seals have been replaced in the 250 forks, when were they realy replaced? Could have been last month, could have been 2 years ago, who knows? If you get forks, take my advice. Have the valving and springs replaced by yourself. You don't want to get out somewhere and blow a fork seal. Also, depending on how you ride, I'd try the springs that are in them now. Why? Because I have stock springs in my forks, and they work just fine. I'm told I weigh to much for them but they seem to do just fine. Either way, I'd have all the necessary work done to the forks after they were sitting in my hands. Thats way you know exactly what you have. Your not going on what someone has told you. I'd get the 125 forks with the guards and have the work done to them. That is an exellent price. Your looking at around $150 for new seals and oil change. Revalving I'm not sure on. I think the springs in the 125 forks will be just fine for you.

Not trying to be sarcastic (a smart @ss) but remember, your not going for a world chamiopnship on this bike. Be smart about it and just get the forks, have the basic work that they need done to them, get'm on the bike and go ride and have some fun! I know this all to be true because I have to remind myself that I'm almost 37 freakin years old and a Hare Scrambles Championship is probably out of the question for me now. Just get you bike together and enjoy. The KX forks were a good deal for me because it made the bike much more enjoyable to ride.
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Post by Ryan »

well here is my thinking, If i cant get the kx250 forks i may be better off. The guy with the 97 forks i acutally won already on ebay, he does not respond to my emails and im not sure if i feel good about buying his forks. Maybe i will buy the axel from him. Seals i was planning on costing about $30 for the seals, and $25 for the oil. Why $150?? Am i missing something? Yes i guess i should include the $50 for an electric impact wrench but im spliting the cost with my friend. So i figure at max $100 for seals the first time around because i need the impact wrench. Also i may be able to get the triple tree for the 97 250 forks for only $30 or $40 instead of $50, i will let you all know what i do.

I just got my kx wheel today finally after 9 days (he lives in oregon and im in ny).
The tire is about 95% tread left and bearings are tight. Spokes are good and the tire is meant for mud and sand which is what i ride in. Here is my question though. The rotor looks slighty tweaked, is there a way to check this?? Also if it is tweaked what can i do to fix it?? Thanks
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Post by Indawoods »

Got a runout dial indicator? :wink:
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Post by Ryan »

whats a runout dial indicator.... no
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