I was wondering how the 02 wheel and axle mounts to the 02 forks.
Does it pinch under one side, thread through the forks (are the forks threaded?) on the opposite side, and finally a nut is screwed on?
02 KX wheel mounting, or similar year.
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KDX220PHIL
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KDXer
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KDX220PHIL
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skipro3
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'02 forks and wheel:
I've got that!!! and on a KX bike as well!!
The axle slides through a pinch clamp on each fork leg. It does NOT thread into either fork. The forks do not have threads for the axle. To properly install the front wheel/axle to the fork legs do this:
1. Place the bike on a center stand so the front end is in the air even when the wheel gets mounted.
2. Loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts as well as the axle pinch bolts. The triple clamp bolts are loosened so that the fork legs can move up and down to get the forks in plane with the axle. If one fork was seated further up the length of the triple clamps, the fork axle would bind.
3. Place the wheel and axle spacers in line with the fork legs so the axle can slide through both fork legs. Be sure the wheel's rotor is fitted to the brake pads correctly. You can get this alignment by using a board and a fulcrum of some sort under the front wheel; like a teeter-totter. The wheel sitting on one side and you pressing on the other side to lift the wheel up and into alignment.
4. Slide the axle in from the left side as you are viewing the assembly from the front. That is the non-brake rotor side.
5. When the axle makes it all the way through, screw down the nut to finger tight.
6. Take the fork leg that does not have the axle nut in hand, and, push it back and forth, sliding it on the axle stub. You will feel where the axle and the fork leg are aligned and not binding up. If not, then remove the axle and be sure it does not have any burrs on it. Most likely, someone has used a hammer on the axle end to force it through so the nut can be installed from the other side. This mushrooms out the end of the axle and prevents the correct alignment of the axle to the fork leg. This is a very important step to prevent stiction in the fork!!!! Here is a photo of the axle end in the fork leg on my bike. Notice that the axle is recessed into the fork's leg. Your bike might be different when adjusted correctly. If I slid the fork out so the axle was lined up even with the fork and then tightened up the fork clamp bolts, my forks whould be too far spread out and they would bind during the intitial travel of them.
7. Tighten up the axle nut to the proper torque. If the axle spins before the torque level is reached, then tighten the pinch bolts on the left fork leg. After tighening the axle to torque loosen that pinch bolt again.
8. Spin the wheel. (Remember, it's on a center stand with the wheel in the air. Remove the lever I discribed to rasie the wheel earlier.) While the wheel is spinning, apply the front brake firmly. Repeat this several times. This whill align the front brake rotor with the caliper and the fork legs to a neutal position with the axle.
9. Now, tighten the fork's axle pinch bolts to torque, then the upper triple clamp pinch bolts and finally the lower pinch bolts to torque. Check torque on all the bolts one more time.
I found that the lower triple clamp pinch bolts can easily cause binding and stiction in the fork's initial movement. To see if your fork action has any stiction, take the bike off it's stand and hold the bars while standing next to the bike; like you would do when you push the bike around. Place your right foot on the bike's peg, and bounce the suspension up and down. Notice if the front forks are starting to move in their travel at the same time the rear shock starts to move. Both front forks and the rear shock should all start to travel at the same time when compressed and released. If not, then loosen up the lower triple clamp bolts and try again. Tighten the lower triple clamp bolts, testing the suspension's freedom to move several times as you tighten. If you make it all the way to the specified torque setting without the forks binding, great. Otherwise stop torquing at the point the forks bind.
I've got that!!! and on a KX bike as well!!
The axle slides through a pinch clamp on each fork leg. It does NOT thread into either fork. The forks do not have threads for the axle. To properly install the front wheel/axle to the fork legs do this:
1. Place the bike on a center stand so the front end is in the air even when the wheel gets mounted.
2. Loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts as well as the axle pinch bolts. The triple clamp bolts are loosened so that the fork legs can move up and down to get the forks in plane with the axle. If one fork was seated further up the length of the triple clamps, the fork axle would bind.
3. Place the wheel and axle spacers in line with the fork legs so the axle can slide through both fork legs. Be sure the wheel's rotor is fitted to the brake pads correctly. You can get this alignment by using a board and a fulcrum of some sort under the front wheel; like a teeter-totter. The wheel sitting on one side and you pressing on the other side to lift the wheel up and into alignment.
4. Slide the axle in from the left side as you are viewing the assembly from the front. That is the non-brake rotor side.
5. When the axle makes it all the way through, screw down the nut to finger tight.
6. Take the fork leg that does not have the axle nut in hand, and, push it back and forth, sliding it on the axle stub. You will feel where the axle and the fork leg are aligned and not binding up. If not, then remove the axle and be sure it does not have any burrs on it. Most likely, someone has used a hammer on the axle end to force it through so the nut can be installed from the other side. This mushrooms out the end of the axle and prevents the correct alignment of the axle to the fork leg. This is a very important step to prevent stiction in the fork!!!! Here is a photo of the axle end in the fork leg on my bike. Notice that the axle is recessed into the fork's leg. Your bike might be different when adjusted correctly. If I slid the fork out so the axle was lined up even with the fork and then tightened up the fork clamp bolts, my forks whould be too far spread out and they would bind during the intitial travel of them.
7. Tighten up the axle nut to the proper torque. If the axle spins before the torque level is reached, then tighten the pinch bolts on the left fork leg. After tighening the axle to torque loosen that pinch bolt again.
8. Spin the wheel. (Remember, it's on a center stand with the wheel in the air. Remove the lever I discribed to rasie the wheel earlier.) While the wheel is spinning, apply the front brake firmly. Repeat this several times. This whill align the front brake rotor with the caliper and the fork legs to a neutal position with the axle.
9. Now, tighten the fork's axle pinch bolts to torque, then the upper triple clamp pinch bolts and finally the lower pinch bolts to torque. Check torque on all the bolts one more time.
I found that the lower triple clamp pinch bolts can easily cause binding and stiction in the fork's initial movement. To see if your fork action has any stiction, take the bike off it's stand and hold the bars while standing next to the bike; like you would do when you push the bike around. Place your right foot on the bike's peg, and bounce the suspension up and down. Notice if the front forks are starting to move in their travel at the same time the rear shock starts to move. Both front forks and the rear shock should all start to travel at the same time when compressed and released. If not, then loosen up the lower triple clamp bolts and try again. Tighten the lower triple clamp bolts, testing the suspension's freedom to move several times as you tighten. If you make it all the way to the specified torque setting without the forks binding, great. Otherwise stop torquing at the point the forks bind.
Jerry
I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
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KDX220PHIL
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Thanks Ski, very well written! I do not have 02 forks (Yet!, might if I find myself an 02 KX) but my questions are related to the possibility of using the KDX wheel with the 02 forks. I hope you do not feel as though I have wasted your time with this write-up, it is very useful info for those assembling similar years.
Is the axle nut torqued against the fork itself?
If I understand correctly, the diameter of the bore in the left fork (looking from front) is larger than the bore in the right fork. (the left fork pinches the large diameter of the axle and the right fork pinches the bearing diameter of the axle)?
I am just wanting to clarify that the nut itself is not pinched like on earlier years.
Thanks for your help guys.
(Ski is that your blond hair on the fork?)
Is the axle nut torqued against the fork itself?
If I understand correctly, the diameter of the bore in the left fork (looking from front) is larger than the bore in the right fork. (the left fork pinches the large diameter of the axle and the right fork pinches the bearing diameter of the axle)?
I am just wanting to clarify that the nut itself is not pinched like on earlier years.
Thanks for your help guys.
(Ski is that your blond hair on the fork?)
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skipro3
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Hi Phil,
Not a waste of time. I'm sure it will help folks out to understand how the whole assembly is to work together, even for other year set-ups.
You are right: One fork leg's bore is larger than the other just as you pointed out.
I don't see any reason that the KDX wheel would not work if you had spacers that would work as well as long as the bearings are of the same diameter. Maybe the rotor position won't line up with the caliper? If I still had a KDX wheel, I'd give it a try. Domenic has one. Maybe we could colaborate and try it out.
Not a waste of time. I'm sure it will help folks out to understand how the whole assembly is to work together, even for other year set-ups.
You are right: One fork leg's bore is larger than the other just as you pointed out.
I don't see any reason that the KDX wheel would not work if you had spacers that would work as well as long as the bearings are of the same diameter. Maybe the rotor position won't line up with the caliper? If I still had a KDX wheel, I'd give it a try. Domenic has one. Maybe we could colaborate and try it out.
Jerry
I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
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KDX220PHIL
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Maybe a custom axle with the following features:
-The large diamter of the KX axle on the left (looking at the bike from the front).
-The normal diamter of the KDX axle (part that locates inside the bearings).
-The length of the KX axle.
-An M14 thread, like the KDX axle.
-A nut that threads on the end (like the earlier year setups that serves the purpose of locating under the pinch clamp and squeezing the spacers).
- Finally, a security screw that locks the nut in place.
And of course, one or two custom spacers depending on if the Odo can act as a spacer like it does for my 98 setup.
It SHOULD then be easy to manipulate the position of the forks on the axle to find that sweet spot for the caliper and rotor.
-The large diamter of the KX axle on the left (looking at the bike from the front).
-The normal diamter of the KDX axle (part that locates inside the bearings).
-The length of the KX axle.
-An M14 thread, like the KDX axle.
-A nut that threads on the end (like the earlier year setups that serves the purpose of locating under the pinch clamp and squeezing the spacers).
- Finally, a security screw that locks the nut in place.
And of course, one or two custom spacers depending on if the Odo can act as a spacer like it does for my 98 setup.
It SHOULD then be easy to manipulate the position of the forks on the axle to find that sweet spot for the caliper and rotor.
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KDXer
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Thanks for the compliments Phil and thanks to Jerry for the write up and pics. It would have taken me at least 3 posts to explain what you have. 
I bet that hair is from the 'last' quad rider that got in his way...
I bet that hair is from the 'last' quad rider that got in his way...
"I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather, not screaming in terror like the passengers in his car."
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Jeb
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I know this is an older post but I uncovered it in a search and had a question . . .
Are there any measurements out there for KDX220PHIL's custom axle? Right now the only dimension that I'm fairly certain about would be the axle diameter where it goes throught the KDX wheel - 15mm.
I should be able to apply the custom axle specs for the KX forks to a custom axle for the YZ forks coming my way, effectively allowing me to use the KDX wheel. Perhaps some differences in axle ODs where they are squeezed by the pinch bolts.
I spent some time today to see if it was possible to retrofit the KDX hub to accept a YZ axle, but I'm pretty sure one thing I CAN'T do is to replace the bearings / spacer in the KDX hub to accept the YZ axle . . .
Based on the KDX bearing size - 15mm ID X 35mm OD X 11mm thickness - and the YZ bearing - 20mm ID X 37mm OD X 9mm thickness, I attempted to find a bearing that had a 20mm ID and a 35mm OD. The only one I "found" was a thrust bearing - all that work for nothing, CRAP!!
Interestingly enough, though, the bearings in the '99 YZ hub are the same for several years of YZ hubs, and in fact the same bearing found in several years worth of KX hubs as well - 6904-2RS.
FWIW here's a link that can help you with available bearing sizes. Choose products, then bearings, then unmounted bearings . . . and then ball bearings if it's wheel bearings you're looking for (there's others too). For the above bearing number there's several mfg's.
http://www.motionindustries.com
Oh yeah, if you try to find a size and need to go back, start over at "bearings" or it doesn't work every time (the post-data thing, I think)
One more to help visualize size information (click on catalog then "deep groove ball bearings" for wheel bearing sizes):
http://www.koyousa.com
Are there any measurements out there for KDX220PHIL's custom axle? Right now the only dimension that I'm fairly certain about would be the axle diameter where it goes throught the KDX wheel - 15mm.
I should be able to apply the custom axle specs for the KX forks to a custom axle for the YZ forks coming my way, effectively allowing me to use the KDX wheel. Perhaps some differences in axle ODs where they are squeezed by the pinch bolts.
I spent some time today to see if it was possible to retrofit the KDX hub to accept a YZ axle, but I'm pretty sure one thing I CAN'T do is to replace the bearings / spacer in the KDX hub to accept the YZ axle . . .
Based on the KDX bearing size - 15mm ID X 35mm OD X 11mm thickness - and the YZ bearing - 20mm ID X 37mm OD X 9mm thickness, I attempted to find a bearing that had a 20mm ID and a 35mm OD. The only one I "found" was a thrust bearing - all that work for nothing, CRAP!!
Interestingly enough, though, the bearings in the '99 YZ hub are the same for several years of YZ hubs, and in fact the same bearing found in several years worth of KX hubs as well - 6904-2RS.
FWIW here's a link that can help you with available bearing sizes. Choose products, then bearings, then unmounted bearings . . . and then ball bearings if it's wheel bearings you're looking for (there's others too). For the above bearing number there's several mfg's.
http://www.motionindustries.com
Oh yeah, if you try to find a size and need to go back, start over at "bearings" or it doesn't work every time (the post-data thing, I think)
One more to help visualize size information (click on catalog then "deep groove ball bearings" for wheel bearing sizes):
http://www.koyousa.com
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Jeb
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KDX220PHIL
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Hey guys,
Long time no.....something.
I have been pretty busy the past year, lots of riding and climbing the corporate ladder but have had little time to spend on the site other than checking up periodically to see what is new.
I am starting my winter tear-down so there is a good chance I’ll be here more often, and once the axle comes off I will measure it and post a drawing on the site (lost the original somewhere).
Another project I have been working on that should take off in the next couple years- My own business... a CNC machine shop. Local business prospect are excellent while potential, even better. Who knows I may even sell some bike related products, production and custom.
Thought I would say Hi to all and hope everyone is enjoying the snow (those of us to have to live with it), sucks here...too much to dirt bike and too little to snowmobile
.
Phil.
Long time no.....something.
I have been pretty busy the past year, lots of riding and climbing the corporate ladder but have had little time to spend on the site other than checking up periodically to see what is new.
I am starting my winter tear-down so there is a good chance I’ll be here more often, and once the axle comes off I will measure it and post a drawing on the site (lost the original somewhere).
Another project I have been working on that should take off in the next couple years- My own business... a CNC machine shop. Local business prospect are excellent while potential, even better. Who knows I may even sell some bike related products, production and custom.
Thought I would say Hi to all and hope everyone is enjoying the snow (those of us to have to live with it), sucks here...too much to dirt bike and too little to snowmobile
.Phil.
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Jeb
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Oh and best of luck with your future prospects. 
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m0rie
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Howdy Phil! Glad your still kicking around...don't be a stranger and good luck on putting together your own business. There is nothing like working for yourself.
1989 KDX 200
2007 TTR-50E
2007 TTR-50E