I have never replaced fork seals before, does this look right?
which part is the fork seal and which is the dust seal?
What is that metal spring thing?
I am trying to determine if I can get by with new oil seals and use the same dust seals, it will take a long time to receive the dust seals if i have to order them but only one week for the oil seals, can you tell if there are dust seals on these forks?
Fork Seals
- KDX220PHIL
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- m0rie
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The seal you see should be the dust seal. If you remove the dust seal you should see a oil seal behind it.
1989 KDX 200
2007 TTR-50E
2007 TTR-50E
- KDX220PHIL
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Thanks Morie, I was looking for reassurance that this is in fact the dust seal and that I am not missing the dust seal. I suppose it does a good job of preventing dust from entering the forks but if this is the dust seal it also does a good job of attracting dirt. So many little nooks and crannies for the dust to stick to, you would think they would have designed the dust seal with no places for the dust to collect in. That metal spring for instance, is covered in dirt.
- canyncarvr
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That's why you use fork boots.
A large reason oil seals fail is because the dust seal failed. Sort'a like a grease seal? If you have a too-large grease seal (leaking oil seal on a crank end is the same) I'll bet you have a bad bearing that MADE it that way.
So...replacing the oil seal (leaking due to a dirt passing dust seal) and KEEPING the dust seal is problematic.
Are you replacing the sliders, too? Use a seal driver..in your case, make one. The two piece MotionPro seal drivers are great tools!
The 43mm driver is great for seating rear axle bearings on your Banshee, too! It fits perfectly!
You're familiar with the film negative cleaning trick? That or somthing similar, slipped past the seal and moved around the tube at an upwards angle with an upward motion is good for cleaning out crud. That can make a LEAKING oil seal better, too.
A large reason oil seals fail is because the dust seal failed. Sort'a like a grease seal? If you have a too-large grease seal (leaking oil seal on a crank end is the same) I'll bet you have a bad bearing that MADE it that way.
So...replacing the oil seal (leaking due to a dirt passing dust seal) and KEEPING the dust seal is problematic.
Are you replacing the sliders, too? Use a seal driver..in your case, make one. The two piece MotionPro seal drivers are great tools!
The 43mm driver is great for seating rear axle bearings on your Banshee, too! It fits perfectly!
You're familiar with the film negative cleaning trick? That or somthing similar, slipped past the seal and moved around the tube at an upwards angle with an upward motion is good for cleaning out crud. That can make a LEAKING oil seal better, too.
Consider the source
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- KDX220PHIL
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Guess I forgot to mention these are the 98 KX forks, no boots.
I just picked up a service manual and eric gorrs handbook (2004 ed) from the local library. In comparisn to photos i have seen, it appears as though the dust seals are toast, so I'll order them both.
I'll make a 2 piece seal driver as suggested by CC next week when I return to work.
Never heard of this film negative cleaning, sounds interesting. I suppose that since I am already disassembling the forks and cleaning everything, this will not apply to me.
This is going to be a real treat, I have never done anything more than change the oil and pre-load spacers on standard forks, there will be a lot to learn and of course a lot of fun. The manual should make things eaiser.
Thanks.
I just picked up a service manual and eric gorrs handbook (2004 ed) from the local library. In comparisn to photos i have seen, it appears as though the dust seals are toast, so I'll order them both.
I'll make a 2 piece seal driver as suggested by CC next week when I return to work.
Never heard of this film negative cleaning, sounds interesting. I suppose that since I am already disassembling the forks and cleaning everything, this will not apply to me.
This is going to be a real treat, I have never done anything more than change the oil and pre-load spacers on standard forks, there will be a lot to learn and of course a lot of fun. The manual should make things eaiser.
Thanks.