KDXRIDER.NET

Hey guys! I have a 98' KDX 200 I just bought. I'm wondering what forks and parts I need to switch it out. For me the front forks are to stiff. Keep in mind I'm only a 5'6 134lbs rider. Instead of rebuilding them I would like to swap them out. Is there any direct fork exchange or do I need to also buy the triple trees and steering stem? I'm not looking for any particular front forks, just something for the woods and something than can be softened more for me. Thanks

WRITE THAT DOWN!! Someone has proclaimed the stock forks as too soft!

If I were you, I would do the shim stack mod and reduce the preload to 4mm before totally giving up on them. There are several threads on these two mods.

134 pounds? I VERY recently weighed 134 pounds, but then I put my other foot on the scale.

Factory springs are very soft maybe the previous owner put stiffer springs on your bike. Try to find factory springs and do the shim stack mod and you will be good for woods.

I agree I weigh 140 and the stock forks are too soft for me likely the springs have been changed everyone here that swaps the forks are looking for a stiffer front end with less flex your going to be better off re-tuning the stock forks.

Jason wrote:WRITE THAT DOWN!! Someone has proclaimed the stock forks as too soft!

If I were you, I would do the shim stack mod and reduce the preload to 4mm before totally giving up on them. There are several threads on these two mods.

134 pounds? I VERY recently weighed 134 pounds, but then I put my other foot on the scale.

Haha. Can I get a link for the thread? I looked through 6 pages and didn't find anything. I'm 16...I'm kinda like a huge midget. To I'd like to learn how to be a dirt bike mechanic..atleast in general know more How do I adjust the preload as I see no adjustments on the forks. I'm not familiar with these forks. Thanks man I appreciate it!

Dragondude wrote:Haha. Can I get a link for the thread? I looked through 6 pages and didn't find anything.

I too haven't been ablle to find it here but I traced it down on another page. Here's what they said.....I'm not going to endorse another forum on here with a link.

1. remove a fork leg. 2. turn it upside down and compress it. I trap it under the bench while I do the next step. 3. remove the rubber plug that covers the compression clicker. 4. Using an impact driver, loosen and then remove the valve assembly from the fork. Note that you should release the compression of the fork once the valve is loosened enough to remove by hand. The oil remains in the fork. 5. On top of the valve assy there is a nut. Remove it. Note that the thread on the shaft is staked at the top, so the nut is hard to remove. Once it is off, clean up the shaft thread with a file, to make it easier to remove the rest of the components. 6. under the nut is a plate and spring. The plate has 'fingers' that curve down and hold a series of thin washers, the SHIMS. 7. There will be 10 shims - take two of them out. Put the rest back onto the stack (inside the 'fingers') and place the whole assy back onto the shaft. 8. Replace the nut and nip it up (not too tight or you may strip the thread - that assy is only aluminium!). 9. make sure it is cleaned of any metal filings from step 5 before placing it back into the bottom of the fork. Compress the fork once more and use the impact driver to make the valve nice and tight in the fork. 10. Replace the fork back on the bike, remove the other fork and do the same thing.

This mod really is worth doing, it noticably improves the action of the fork on hard, square edged bumps such as rocks and roots. This is because the shims absorb the initial impact (the high speed circuit) by restricting oil flow before the fork springs start to take the shock (the slow speed circuit). The rocks and roots don't make the forks move deeply enough for the springs to take up enough of the impact. By removing two shims you are reducing the resistance to the oil flow and therefore making that initial stroke 20% plusher - just enough to make the front end a lot less jittery over the sharp stuff. If you think it is a little too soft now, simply replace one shim, but I think you'll like it. Admittedly, gold valves have a more advanced shim stack and so can be tuned a lot more precisely than the stocker, but they cost $$$ and this mod is totally free.

SON OF A HOO-ER!! HAND FILE THE PEENING OFF THE TOP OF THE BASE VALVE!! JEEZ LOUISE!!

Additional moaning: "nip it up" They's kids in here!

Dress the threads, then blue Loctite at 25 inch-pounds (goooooo buy one, since you thought it )

It is not 20%, technically.

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He may be on to something as far as someone else putting stiffer springs in there already.

Jason wrote:SON OF A HOO-ER!! HAND FILE THE PEENING OFF THE TOP OF THE BASE VALVE!! JEEZ LOUISE!!

Additional moaning: "nip it up" They's kids in here!

Dress the threads, then blue Loctite at 25 inch-pounds (goooooo buy one, since you thought it )

It is not 20%, technically.

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He may be on to something as far as someone else putting stiffer springs in there already.

Sorry Jason I was just copy and pasting I couldn't find the topic on here so I copied a summary of another forum that I had found when I was checking out my fork options the basics are there though just needs re worded by the KDX guys here that have done the mod

KDXohio wrote:

Dragondude wrote:
I too haven't been ablle to find it here but I traced it down on another page. Here's what they said.....I'm not going to endorse another forum on here with a link.

Thanks for the advice. I'll show this to my Dad and I'm sure he can help me with it. Keep an eye on this thread if you could, I may come back with some more questions on the shimming and fork conversion maybe! I appreciate it bud

KDXohio, I understood that you weren't the one with the original advice. That is pretty much the way it goes, but a couple of things are off. The aluminum shaft can crack and then the base valve is damaged.

Someone should do a good write up on it and make it a sticky somewhere. Maybe make a new page for stock fork options, or just general fork modifications.

Congratulations, the job is yours.

I will get foo-foo'ed for suggesting proper tools, so I am out.

Jason wrote:Congratulations, the job is yours.

I will get foo-foo'ed for suggesting proper tools, so I am out.

I can try but I'll be doing a write up on something I haven't done lol so I can't be held responsible for anything anyone does after reading it!

Nah, what you posted is a good way for most folks to get it done. I just mainly wanted to add a note of caution on the nut removal and the peening. I have read of someone breaking one before. NOT a good situation.

Jason wrote:Nah, what you posted is a good way for most folks to get it done. I just mainly wanted to add a note of caution on the nut removal and the peening. I have read of someone breaking one before. NOT a good situation.

Well I did the write up before reading this lol so who has the power to put up a sub forum for fork modifications?

I think it needed done anyways lots of people complaining on other forums about not being able to find the info here. The write up is so specific that if after reading it someone feels iffy on whether they can do it they can't.