couple of questions on KX conversion
- turtle
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couple of questions on KX conversion
I am just now converting to my 2001 KX 125 front end ( there are lots of reasons why it has taken me more than a year to get to this, it's a long story).
first question, what is the latest wisdom on running a KDX brake line routing? I assume the brake line has to be fixed to the fork guard somehow. is that true, and if so, what's the best way to get that done?
next question, and more troubling, has to do with how stiff the steering is. when I was greasing the bearings I found that the lower steering stem bearing was hard to turn. I don't know if this is because it sat in my shop in the basement for a year or what. but I had it in Ron Blacks protective packaging the whole time, and if you have seen his packaging you know it is protective.! the bearing shows no signs of any kind of contamination, rust, or anything else. it looks perfect.
I don't know if it's going to loosen up or not but I'm a little concerned how stiff it is. the stem lock nut is finger tight. the top stem nut is torqued properly, but it was stiff even before I did that. any suggestions? Thanks.
first question, what is the latest wisdom on running a KDX brake line routing? I assume the brake line has to be fixed to the fork guard somehow. is that true, and if so, what's the best way to get that done?
next question, and more troubling, has to do with how stiff the steering is. when I was greasing the bearings I found that the lower steering stem bearing was hard to turn. I don't know if this is because it sat in my shop in the basement for a year or what. but I had it in Ron Blacks protective packaging the whole time, and if you have seen his packaging you know it is protective.! the bearing shows no signs of any kind of contamination, rust, or anything else. it looks perfect.
I don't know if it's going to loosen up or not but I'm a little concerned how stiff it is. the stem lock nut is finger tight. the top stem nut is torqued properly, but it was stiff even before I did that. any suggestions? Thanks.
Bill
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
- rbates9
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couple of questions on KX conversion
Yes the brake line will need to be mounted to the fork guard in some way. When you get the whole mess together the line will pretty much lay where it needs to be. You can get the guards for the forks you have and make a simple bracket out of a bent piece of aluminum and rivet it to the guard. Or you can get RMZ? fork guards and they will have the mount but you will need to adapt the guard to fit the forks with a spacer. Either way it takes a little bit of work but not too bad. I went with the right guards and then made the bracket and have been pretty happy with it. Also I would recommend going with white guards because the black will look like crap after a few rides from all the scratches.
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 04&t=12294
With the bearing being stiff I think the bearing has a seal right under the bearing that may be rubbing on the cage a little bit. You could look to see if that is rubbing. Also RB tends to be a little on the clean side so the bearing may just be stiff from sitting for a year with no oil on it. You could try to put some oil on it and see if it frees up.
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 04&t=12294
With the bearing being stiff I think the bearing has a seal right under the bearing that may be rubbing on the cage a little bit. You could look to see if that is rubbing. Also RB tends to be a little on the clean side so the bearing may just be stiff from sitting for a year with no oil on it. You could try to put some oil on it and see if it frees up.
- turtle
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Re: couple of questions on KX conversion
Thanks for the helpful response rbates. I feel a little better now. The front end I got came with the stock (white) fork guards so I will make a bracket for the brake line. The point about the seal is a good one. I'm going to assume it will loosen up once it gets some temperature (it's cold here) and cycles in it to distribute the grease better and get it flowing. I found it difficult to grease the lower stem bearing (tapered roller bearing) since it was already pressed onto the shaft, but I got this little bulk grease injector from Harbor Freight and it worked OK at getting grease injected in behind the rollers. Not as good as a grease packing tool would have but hopefully good enough.
Good on RB for his work though. The spacer he provided fit like a glove. The conversion is pretty easy with his spacer and stem swap. I'm finding it's more the controls (and the brake line) that are the challenge in this. Gotta get thsi thing done though. Once this 6 inches of snow we got last night melts, it is time to ride!
Good on RB for his work though. The spacer he provided fit like a glove. The conversion is pretty easy with his spacer and stem swap. I'm finding it's more the controls (and the brake line) that are the challenge in this. Gotta get thsi thing done though. Once this 6 inches of snow we got last night melts, it is time to ride!
Bill
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
- rbates9
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couple of questions on KX conversion
I think when I did my fork swap I had about 20% of the time getting the forks swapped and mounted then the other 80% getting everything else to a point I was happy with. I think I had to do a little re routing to the clutch cable to get enough slack in it when the bars were turned full left. That might be another thing to look at. I may have had mine routed wrong to begin with and it just showed up more with the KX set up.
- bufftester
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Re: couple of questions on KX conversion
When I did my hybrid (2001 KX125 frame, 1999 KX250 forks/triple) I reused my KDX clutch, throttle cables and brake line. Brake is routed exactly the same as the KDX (I also reused the KDX caliper) and has plenty of room to run just like it did on my KDX behind the light. Same with clutch and throttle cables, routed the same way and plenty of slack even at full stops. As for the bearings feeling stiff, as long as you greased them well the more important thing is do they feel smooth? no ratcheting or roughness through the travel left to right. Oh, and try using them when the temp is above -20 (I do not miss living in N. Dakota!)
- turtle
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couple of questions on KX conversion
great info, guys. I appreciate it. the bearing feels nice and smooth so I think it will be okay.
question on the brake line holder on the fork guard: how much room do I need to leave between the top of the holder & the bottom of the fork guard guide? I don't want the brake line holder snapping off the guide when the suspension compresses or bottoms. I can't find any spec online or in the service manual for suspension travel.
question on the brake line holder on the fork guard: how much room do I need to leave between the top of the holder & the bottom of the fork guard guide? I don't want the brake line holder snapping off the guide when the suspension compresses or bottoms. I can't find any spec online or in the service manual for suspension travel.
Bill
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
- rbates9
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couple of questions on KX conversion
The forks will pretty much bottom out (about all of the chrome will go into the tube, my bike after a good day of riding will have a ring from the seal about an inch or less from the bottom of the tube) so you will need to cut the fork guard guide out where the line clamp will pass thru. When the brake is on the forks the brake line will lay where it wants to be so that makes locating the line clamp mount easy.
- turtle
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couple of questions on KX conversion
can anyone point me to a picture with that kind of routing? if I go by where my brake line falls naturally, it's not going to work. it will leave the bracket and the fork guard guide too close together. I can try to post a picture to explain what I'm talking about, but my webshots account got nixed so I'll have to create a photobucket account or something.
I found a picture of Frankenschwinn's bike with this kind of setup, but he left the fork guard guide off of the left side. I suppose I could do that but I'd rather not.
I found a picture of Frankenschwinn's bike with this kind of setup, but he left the fork guard guide off of the left side. I suppose I could do that but I'd rather not.
Bill
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
- rbates9
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couple of questions on KX conversion
Someone else was looking for a picture of how I did mine so I guess I will have to get one up.
If you mount the guard guide on the fork and cut the middle out of the part that the guard slides thru, the part that has the loop for the brake line, then you will still have the guide effect from the sides that are still there but the line clamp will pass thru. You need to cut about 1/2" out of the middle of the guide. I even though about using the guide for the brake side on the other side and routing the trip meter cable thru it but that was after I already cut the guide so I will have to try that with the next set.
If you mount the guard guide on the fork and cut the middle out of the part that the guard slides thru, the part that has the loop for the brake line, then you will still have the guide effect from the sides that are still there but the line clamp will pass thru. You need to cut about 1/2" out of the middle of the guide. I even though about using the guide for the brake side on the other side and routing the trip meter cable thru it but that was after I already cut the guide so I will have to try that with the next set.
- turtle
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couple of questions on KX conversion
okay, with that description it is making more sense. I'd still love to see a photo if you can get one posted.rbates9 wrote:Someone else was looking for a picture of how I did mine so I guess I will have to get one up.
If you mount the guard guide on the fork and cut the middle out of the part that the guard slides thru, the part that has the loop for the brake line, then you will still have the guide effect from the sides that are still there but the line clamp will pass thru. You need to cut about 1/2" out of the middle of the guide. I even though about using the guide for the brake side on the other side and routing the trip meter cable thru it but that was after I already cut the guide so I will have to try that with the next set.
Bill
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
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Re: couple of questions on KX conversion
Does the stock KX125 brake hose mount to the KDX caliper?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Kawasaki-K ... dd&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Kawasaki-K ... dd&vxp=mtr
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- ICRage42
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couple of questions on KX conversion
If you cant fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
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Re: couple of questions on KX conversion
Cool. Thanks.
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- turtle
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couple of questions on KX conversion
I was originally going to use the KX setup but it did not play nicely with my headlight, and honestly the brake line didn't seem quite long enough with the fork fully extended.
Rbates, reading these posts again, I see you had to tel me twice to cut an opening in the guide for the line holder to pass through. Believe me, that's not the first time I've has to be told twice! Thanks for the help and patience as I work through this, guys.
Rbates, reading these posts again, I see you had to tel me twice to cut an opening in the guide for the line holder to pass through. Believe me, that's not the first time I've has to be told twice! Thanks for the help and patience as I work through this, guys.
Bill
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
Central IL
2004 KDX220R
2011 Triumph Tiger 1050 SE
- rbates9
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