First off, throw out the setting that are recommended for the KX forks. They do not work for your KDX.
Next, let's simplify the setup for woods riding. This includes setting the rebound and compression settings way out. Almost to the limits of plush. Woods does not require the stiffness of a MX track rider. Not saying there is not extremely aggressive riders out there but you will still be setting them plusher than track riders so keep that in mind.
Do some research on the year of KX forks that you have purchased. All of them can be modified to obtain a good setup for the woods. Some easier than others but all will work.
Some have bladders that you will want to disable (nothing has been written to the contrary so far) Most have midvalves after 95 I believe and are designed more for the track than the woods and make the mid stroke really harsh. It is recommended that this be disabled with a standard checkvalve replacement. After these modifications, it is all in the valve stack. This controls your Low Speed Circuit and your High Speed Circuit. On stutter bumps and soft hits it is the Low Speed Circuit that controls this area. If it is harsh, then if you have already disabled the midvalve... you will have to alter the LSC stack. And the same goes with the hard hits and the HSC. Both will effect each other when changing out shims so try to be somewhat knowledgeable in what your doing or send your forks to your local or national tuner. If you do your research, I don't see why you couldn't get a good setup with a little research.
The disassembly of your forks to disable the midvalve can be very tricky. If you decide you are want to tackle this yourself, take your time and get the right tools for the job. There are alot of good resources out there like mx-tech.com and racetech.com and they should be able to point you in the right direction.
*These views are strictly my own and I truly believe they are sound.
If you have any questions about this post, please PM me.
Indawoods
