How to get started with fork conversion?

Questions and comments about converting to beefier forks..
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wanaride
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How to get started with fork conversion?

Post by wanaride »

I'm sure this information is contained throughout 100 threads, but in the interests of time...

I've read lots of posts from people who think this fork conversion is THE mod for the KDX. Other than knowing that KX forks are the target, I have no idea how to get started.

Before I start blindly trolling eBay for forks, can someone kindly write up a primer (or point me to an existing one) that indicates:
- what year KX forks to look for
- what other hardware will be needed
- basic plan on how to do it

Thanks for your help!
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

'96 and up KX forks are the target... matching hardware to boot, triple trees, axle, wheel and caliper depending on if you want the KX hose routing or the KDX routing for the brake line. (basically a complete KX frontend 96 and up!) As far as the actual procedure... Ski wroke up a good guide and if you need any other clearification... let us know. :wink:
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Post by KDXGarage »

Just to add a few things...

Any 1989 or newer KX forks would be more advanced internally than the 1995 - 2005 KDX forks.

If the used parts you buy need any new parts (i.e. seals/bushings/correct rate springs/wheel bearings/brake pads/etc.), they will cost pretty much the same for 1989 as they will for 2005.

The newer they are, the more technilogically advanced they are, plus they may be less worn out than older models.

The newer they are, the more 'spensive they are. How new should you get? Lemme see your wallet right quick. :lol:
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net. :bravo:
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Post by Indawoods »

1. Remove KDX Frontend.
2. Take lower Triple clamp w/stem and KX lower triple clamp to machinist and have the KDX's stem removed and pressed into the KX's lower triple clamp.
3. Press lower KDX bearing onto stem.
4. Grease bearings well and fit lower triple clamp onto KDX, place well greased top KDX bearings onto stem and screw down bearing nut to spec.
5. Test fit of top Triple clamp, you will have to find the amount of spacer you will need to make the top nut fit within a few mm. I just used the KX's bearing nut and extra spacer. (Pics in Gallery along with Skipro3 and canyncarvr) Snug down but not too much that you can't turn them.
6. Slide forks up through the triple clamps with about an inch out the top. (This is the amount that the KX forks are longer than the KDX's)
7. Loosely fit everything together and adjust and torque.

You will have some questions while doing this procedure but we are here to help you. The gallery is a great tool to show what your talking about too. You will be very happy with the KX setup as all the others that have done this are. :wink:
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Post by wanaride »

Where is skipro3's description of how to do this? I can't crawl through all 39 related threads right now (I did try the search feature)...
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Post by Indawoods »

skipro3 wrote:Here is the story of how I added KX forks to my KDX220R:
I got a front end from a 1996 KX125 off eBay for $400 including shipping. It came with the triple clamp / stem, forks, front wheel assembly, axle, and full brake set-up including master cylinder assembly. I swapped the whole thing out but didn't need to. Here's what you need. I know that the KX125 or KX250 from at least 1996 to present are going to work.. You will need to use a KX wheel / hub. The KDX will not work. Axles totally different, bearings too. Once you have the forks / t-clamp / axle and wheel, take yours all off. Remove the handle bars, front axle, wheel, each fork, then the t-clamp. Take your KDX t-clamp and the new KX one to a machine shop and have them press the lower bearing and stem off of each. My 1996 KX triple clamp needed to be knurled for the stem to fit tight. Later years don?t seem to need this step. I recommend getting the later year triple clamps as that is one less thing you have to mess with. If you do get a ?96 triple clamp that needs knurling, have a machine shop knurl the inside of the KX t-clamp. A knurling tool is a cylinder with ridges on it that when forced through the stem hole on the lower t-clamp will make ridges like your shift lever uses. No material is removed, just rearranged. Have the stem and bearing pressed back on. Don't forget the circlip on the bottom of the stem. It is used to prevent pressing too far on. Now for the reassemble. Grease the lower bearing. Insert the lower KX t-clamp (with the KDX stem that was pressed on) into the bikes head, slide your KDX upper bearing on after greasing, put on the dust cap from the KDX and the stem nut from the KDX. Seat about 20 ft. Lb. of torque, loosen, then just past finger tight. Put a spacer on over your stem nut. Washers with a big hole in the middle will work but I discovered that the KX stem nut, being larger, slipped over the exposed stem and worked great. If you forget or try to not use a spacer, your handle bars will not sit on their mounts right. At this point you have the lower t-clamp mounted and tight. Put the KX top t-clamp on. You will see it is a sloppy fit. Go to a hobby, craft shop or a model train / airplane store and get .025 thickness of shim stock and use it to reduce the hole diameter in the upper triple clamp so your KDX stem will fit snug. I used copper because it is easy to cut, but aluminum or brass are just as good. If you can't find any, I will send some to you. Anyway, cut with tin snips or some old scissors, and shape it using the left over KX stem. It can be a little short, and not make it all the way around, it won't matter. Put this into the top t-clamp hole and slip over the stem. If the shim pops out a little, tap it in with a nail set or something. It's not a tight fit, nor should it be. Put your KDX washer and top nut on to the stem and hand tighten. Put your forks on and tighten to the t-clamp but don't torque down just yet. put the KX front wheel on with the KX axle. You can use the KDX brake assembly. The difference in the brake assembly is mainly the routing of the brake line. It is much cleaner using the KX. Put the front brake on, rotor, line and master cylinder. Now, with everything in place, start torqueing down all the hardware. Re-install handle bars, torque and ensure all cables are routed correctly. Fire that bad boy up and hit the trail, you're done! Here is a over view:
Materials:
KX forks
KX t-clamp
KX wheel and axle
.025 shim stock to reduce the KX top triple clamp opening to match the KDX stem
Washers or the old KX stem nut as a spacer so the stem doesn?t bump up against the handle bars
Labor:
press off old and new stem and bearing.
Press the KDX stem and bearing on to the KX lower triple clamp. (the pressing with knurling cost me $25.)
Assemble lower t-clamp, upper bearing, dust cap and KDX stem nut on your bike to seat bearings.
Install washers or KX stem nut as a spacer for top nut clearance under the handlebars.
Fabricate a .025 shim for the slop between the upper t-clamp hole and the stem and install.
Attach top washer and nut
Attach forks, wheel, brake, and handle bars.
Check cable routes for clearances and no binding / pinching.
Ride fast and hit something big. You will be amazed.


As a final thought, play with the fork height in the t-clamps. Mine are now about 1/2 inch over the top clamp. The KX forks are a taller ride than the KDX and this will change your geometry if you don't drop the forks a little.
I hope I haven't totally confused you. It is an easy upgrade. It took me about two hours but that was because I was polishing and cleaning everything to like new condition. I?ll post up some photos once I find where I put them.
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Post by wanaride »

Outstanding, thanks everyone!
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Post by skipro3 »

Gee, I wrote that up pretty good!

One thing I would now change is:
Get a stainless steel brakelilne instead of the Kawasaki stock line unless the stock line comes with the purchase of any of your parts. For KDX/CR/Yamaha style of routing, it's any 50 inch brake line with 10mm banjos on each end. I went with 10 degree bends at the banjo's for better flow of the line.
I make this recommendation because the front brake will work like a dream with this line. 1 finger control is super. It lets me hang onto the bars much better and really, really, really helps eliminate arm pump.
Jerry

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Post by Indawoods »

I think it's the lack of a clutch that eliminates your arm pump Ski... not the front brake! I have never got arm pump from hitting the front brake! :lol:
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Post by canyncarvr »

I recommend getting another KDX stem for the job. I got mine from FRP for $40. The point being, I still have a complete working KDX frontend..not one I've taken pieces off of.

If you don't want to mess with the shim stock idea on the top clamp, you can have the top clamp bushed for a few bucks. That was my preferance. I just didn't want to mess with shims.


Re: 'Install washers or KX stem nut as a spacer for top nut clearance under the handlebars.'

You can pickup a handful of washers at any hardware store that will do the trick, too. You need to space the top clamp up enough to keep it OFF the threaded portion of the stem (where the bearing/spanner nut is). There is room to pass the threads if you do NOT bush the top clamp, but you will want to get the top clamp about as high as you can, so you can slide the KX fork tubes up far enough to level your bike.

Have you looked at my forks? Pics in the gallery. They are 'up' something like 7/8".

Oh...some KX top clamps have bushed bar mounts, some don't. I specifically looked for a clamp with bushed pedestals. ...just my preference. Mine are '99.

Some later forks have bladders in them. General agreement is to either take the bladder out (cartridge disassy required) or defeat their effect by removal of some hardware on top of the bladder. There is NOone that thinks bladders are good. Get rid of 'em.

Get some Loctite interference fit locking agent for the stem. That info is in this topic section.

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Post by skipro3 »

I just seen some of that green loctite CC is refering to at Reibes. A small tube was about $8.
(Reibes is the local NAPA retailer around here)
Jerry

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