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Torque Values

Posted: 01:23 pm Mar 11 2011
by ditton
Just awaiting my 03 triple clamp to come back from RB and then will be able to proceed with my conversion.
The question I have is regarding the torque values for the clamp(s) bolts, axle nut, axle pinch nuts.?
I will have 03 KX125 triple clamps, 03 KX125 forks, 03 KDX wheel (with axle mod)
Just wondering if I should use torque values from KDX manual or should I be using KX125 torque values (or are they close enough)?
If I need KX125 values, would anyone have them?

I have read several articles on aligning wheel/axle/forks etc and the torque values seem to be all over the place.

Thanks in advance
Ditton

Posted: 01:51 pm Mar 11 2011
by scheckaet

Posted: 03:05 pm Mar 11 2011
by ditton
Thanks Scheckaet.

I read that thread for the process and saved it. But as noted, it is a little confusing regarding the torques which is why I asked the original question as it seems overtightening may cause stiction on the forks.
I would assume it should be 12 ft lbs for top and 10 ft lbs for bottom if using the noted values.
Any thought on the axle torque.....using KDX wheel/KX forks? Just use KDX torques from manual??

Thanks again
Ditton

Posted: 03:19 pm Mar 11 2011
by scheckaet
12 top 10 bottom is what I use on the triple.
10-12 for the axle pinch, or whatever the kdx manual says. I don't think it's that far off.

Posted: 06:31 pm Mar 11 2011
by Tedh98
I think you'd want the KDX value for the axle nut and the KX values for everything else.

I've read it enough time that I believe there is truth in it - go lighter on the upper / lower triple clamp torque settings than what the manual states.

I believe I'm doing about 12 ft/lbs on the upper & lower triple clamps along with the axle pinch bolts on my '04 KX.

I can get the specs from the manual if you like. There are some differences between the '03 and '04+ KX's, but I doubt that those torque specs would be different.

I've also had recent results with the front end alignment that skipro3 outlined about 1/2 down in this thread: front end alignment

Posted: 06:48 pm Mar 11 2011
by rbates9
If you are using the RB axle mod you might not want to torque the axle it self down to spec. I went about half of that and it works good. The pinch bolts on both sides will keep it from loosening up.

Posted: 07:39 pm Mar 11 2011
by ditton
Thanks guys.
Just what I needed.
Thanks rbates about the info on the axle mod torques, thats good info as it is what I will be using.
I have read a couple of the thread posts regarding the alignment part and they vary quite different as to the process/order.
I have saved a few and will just try one at a time and see what the results are....all great info......
Can't wait for this snow to melt and warm up so I can get at this.

Thanks again
Ditton

Posted: 08:56 pm Mar 11 2011
by Mr. Wibbens
From Ski


Loosen the lower pinch bolts on the t-clamp to the forks.
Loosen the axle nut
Loosen the axle pinch bolts
Loosen, then tighten to 10 foot pounds the upper pinch bolts on the t-clamp to the forks.
Bleed the air from the forks

Now,
Stand on the left side of the bike, holding the bars and put your right foot on the left peg.
Bounce your left foot on that peg. The forks AND rear shock should go up and down at about the same time. If you have to use the front brake to get the forks to move, you are doing it wrong.

The bouncing is so the forks can move on the front wheel axle and get straight. Many people crank down on the axle nut and it tweaks in the lower part of the forks, putting a bend in them so the lower part of the forks are closer together than the point where they enter the lower T-clamp.
By bouncing, the forks will seek their natural point along the front wheel axle so there is no bind or bend to them.

Now, while bouncing, hit the front brake. Do this several times. The purpose is to get the wheel to move along the axle so the rotor lines up with the caliper and the pads in the caliper.
Your forks should now be in their natural straight position without any stress trying to force them in any direction and your wheel should now be floating exactly aligned with the caliper and the rotor not dragging.
Tighten the pinch bolts on the front axle. Then try your bounce again. The forks should continue to move freely with the weight without using the front brake.
Next, tighten the front axle nut. Then go and do the bounce again. If it starts sticking, you've over tightened the axle and it's bowing in the lower fork legs.
Next tighten the upper T-clamp to torque spec. Bounce and make sure every thing is still good and nothing sticking.
Finally tighten the lower pinch bolts to 10 foot pounds. Bounce. there should be no or very little stiction. Increase the lower pinch bolt torque to 15 foot pounds and bounce. You should see a lot of stiction. Back off the torque on the lower T-clamp pinch bolts until the stiction goes away again and record the reading.

If you have stiction after this, the problem is something unusual like maybe bent axle or your upper/lower T-Clamps are not aligned right.
If it's the upper T-Clamp not lined up with the lower clamp, you'll have to start all over but this time lossen the stem nut at the start and get them in line.

Posted: 08:20 am Mar 17 2011
by rbates9
>|<>QBB<
Mr. Wibbens wrote:From Ski


Loosen the lower pinch bolts on the t-clamp to the forks.
Loosen the axle nut
Loosen the axle pinch bolts
Loosen, then tighten to 10 foot pounds the upper pinch bolts on the t-clamp to the forks.
Bleed the air from the forks

Now,
Stand on the left side of the bike, holding the bars and put your right foot on the left peg.
Bounce your left foot on that peg. The forks AND rear shock should go up and down at about the same time. If you have to use the front brake to get the forks to move, you are doing it wrong.

The bouncing is so the forks can move on the front wheel axle and get straight. Many people crank down on the axle nut and it tweaks in the lower part of the forks, putting a bend in them so the lower part of the forks are closer together than the point where they enter the lower T-clamp.
By bouncing, the forks will seek their natural point along the front wheel axle so there is no bind or bend to them.

Now, while bouncing, hit the front brake. Do this several times. The purpose is to get the wheel to move along the axle so the rotor lines up with the caliper and the pads in the caliper.
Your forks should now be in their natural straight position without any stress trying to force them in any direction and your wheel should now be floating exactly aligned with the caliper and the rotor not dragging.
Tighten the pinch bolts on the front axle. Then try your bounce again. The forks should continue to move freely with the weight without using the front brake.
Next, tighten the front axle nut. Then go and do the bounce again. If it starts sticking, you've over tightened the axle and it's bowing in the lower fork legs.
Next tighten the upper T-clamp to torque spec. Bounce and make sure every thing is still good and nothing sticking.
Finally tighten the lower pinch bolts to 10 foot pounds. Bounce. there should be no or very little stiction. Increase the lower pinch bolt torque to 15 foot pounds and bounce. You should see a lot of stiction. Back off the torque on the lower T-clamp pinch bolts until the stiction goes away again and record the reading.

If you have stiction after this, the problem is something unusual like maybe bent axle or your upper/lower T-Clamps are not aligned right.
If it's the upper T-Clamp not lined up with the lower clamp, you'll have to start all over but this time lossen the stem nut at the start and get them in line.

They should sticky this

Posted: 06:41 am Apr 11 2011
by ditton
Hello again.
Was finally able to get started on the conversion this weekend. All went well, and the work that RB Designs had done for me (stem, spacer, axle conversion) was top notch. Highly recommended!!!
The only little problem I ran into with the "stiction procedure" noted above was that I could not torque the axle pinch bolts before the torquing the axle nut. Axle nut would not budge if I did it this way.
I had to torque the axle nut first then the axle pinch bolts.
All seems fine so far. Wheel seems to spin pretty free (some natural resistance?) and the forks seem to return ok (measured from base to seal area before and after bouncing).

Rebates....how does your wheel feel when spinning using the axle mod?

Thanks for the help, and can't wait to get out on trails once the are open for use
Ditton

Posted: 07:50 pm Apr 11 2011
by rbates9
>|<>QBB<
ditton wrote:Rebates....how does your wheel feel when spinning using the axle mod?

Ditton
(I think you meant me) When using the axle mod the wheel spins just like it did on the KDX forks. I did notice a VERY weird feeling of the front end wanting to keep the bike straight up right. I went thru every thing a couple of times and I think that the issue was coming from the forks not being perfectly parallel and straight. I tried the above mentioned procedure and it seemed to go away.

Also, try to tighten the axle nut pinch bolts after the axle to nut is just snug then loosen the axle and do the rest of the procedure. I have found that you can leave the axle nut tightened with the pinch bolts when removing the wheel but you need to be a little more careful when starting the axle into the threads.

BTW, I used my stock KDX fender with the swap and noticed that the wheel seems to be a little offset to one side compared to the fender but not the forks. Did you notice the same?

Posted: 06:34 am Apr 13 2011
by ditton
Hi rbates9
My front weel too looks a little of center with reference to the fender, but is centred on the forks/axle.....wierd.....

Ditton