** Please help ** Shock settings question...
- KDXer
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** Please help ** Shock settings question...
Just want to get an over all idea of how everyone has there shock set. Post up your weight and rebound/compression clickers and any mods (revalve, heavier spring, etc).
Weight: 180lb with gear
R= 11
C= 9
stock spring/valving
I am experimenting heavily to try and get the bike to feel natural as it just feels wrong at the moment. I have finally had a real good chance to put it through its paces over the last few weeks and I'm not very impressed to say the least. It understeers, it oversteers, it flat out doesn't steer, it doesn't track straight, the front and rear go seperate ways when trying to go straight through mud, my hands cramp solid after about 30mins of riding, the front end deflects bad considering I have a WER, etc, etc... It just doesn't feel right. To put it into perspective I am quicker on an XR250L than my bike at the moment around my test tracks.... by alot....
I am going to be taking my shock in for a service and revalve to begin with. I would be very grateful if you guys could post any valving/shim stack info to help get the shock sorted.
I appreciate any info, tips or suggestions you may have.
Thanks... Trev...
Weight: 180lb with gear
R= 11
C= 9
stock spring/valving
I am experimenting heavily to try and get the bike to feel natural as it just feels wrong at the moment. I have finally had a real good chance to put it through its paces over the last few weeks and I'm not very impressed to say the least. It understeers, it oversteers, it flat out doesn't steer, it doesn't track straight, the front and rear go seperate ways when trying to go straight through mud, my hands cramp solid after about 30mins of riding, the front end deflects bad considering I have a WER, etc, etc... It just doesn't feel right. To put it into perspective I am quicker on an XR250L than my bike at the moment around my test tracks.... by alot....
I am going to be taking my shock in for a service and revalve to begin with. I would be very grateful if you guys could post any valving/shim stack info to help get the shock sorted.
I appreciate any info, tips or suggestions you may have.
Thanks... Trev...
"I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather, not screaming in terror like the passengers in his car."
- scheckaet
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Hey Trev, looks like the hand and ribs are doing better now.
Dumb question but when did you service your shock? If it's been more than 6 months, could suspect the n2 to be gone and the oil turned into coffee....
Dumb question but when did you service your shock? If it's been more than 6 months, could suspect the n2 to be gone and the oil turned into coffee....
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Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
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- canyncarvr
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Sir:
This post only to put my name on the list of replies...but my reply is of no use whatsoever.
Weight: 185#
R=?
C=?
OEM spring (5.0), revalved
I've set the clickers to what I think is the best setting, but don't know wht the # of clicks is from full CW. I could go home and count the clicks, but that information is useless, the shock having been revalved a few times.
Current shim setup? I have no idea. The results of having Richard Wilson (fairly local tuner) rebuild/tune my shock are quite satisfactory and well beyond my desire (and ability) to mess with.
There is considerable difference in my shock from 1 1/2 years of use and freshly serviced. Hopefully your tuner has a clue as to what he's doing.
There are times I would describe my bike in ways you have described yours. The resolution to those problems varies..tire pressure, fork pressure, maybe an 'incorrect' choice of tire in the first place. I figure a lot of my problem is indeed the rider.
The WER isn't very effective as a damper. Better than nothing for sure...but not GREAT.
Hopefully your service/revalve will be beneficial. Set the clickers as you're supposed to...using your butt to guage compression bounce, packing, rebound speed..the old 'Ride over some bumps and pay attention to what happens.' method. If your tuner is local (and willing) him watching you ride over such bumps will tell him in a minute or two how to change what.
This post only to put my name on the list of replies...but my reply is of no use whatsoever.
Weight: 185#
R=?
C=?
OEM spring (5.0), revalved
I've set the clickers to what I think is the best setting, but don't know wht the # of clicks is from full CW. I could go home and count the clicks, but that information is useless, the shock having been revalved a few times.
Current shim setup? I have no idea. The results of having Richard Wilson (fairly local tuner) rebuild/tune my shock are quite satisfactory and well beyond my desire (and ability) to mess with.
There is considerable difference in my shock from 1 1/2 years of use and freshly serviced. Hopefully your tuner has a clue as to what he's doing.
There are times I would describe my bike in ways you have described yours. The resolution to those problems varies..tire pressure, fork pressure, maybe an 'incorrect' choice of tire in the first place. I figure a lot of my problem is indeed the rider.
The WER isn't very effective as a damper. Better than nothing for sure...but not GREAT.
Hopefully your service/revalve will be beneficial. Set the clickers as you're supposed to...using your butt to guage compression bounce, packing, rebound speed..the old 'Ride over some bumps and pay attention to what happens.' method. If your tuner is local (and willing) him watching you ride over such bumps will tell him in a minute or two how to change what.
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!
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This is MY shock, not yours.
I understand what you are trying to do, I did the same just to see if I was nuts or close. The bike handled like crap at one time.
Shock has been revlaved by a fella on this site, I'm not sure if I'm allowed to say who. Leave it at J#s*n, I believe his name was.
KX front end
I'm running 6 clicks out on compression, 11 clicks out on rebound and it all works pretty well.
I set the race sag to about 3-1/2" and then "field adjusted" it until I got it turning well. I picked about a one mile loop of single track with plenty of roots and turns and some big hits and changing soil types. Over the course of a FEW WEEKS I played with clickers front and back, fork height in the triple clamps, tire pressure, etc.
I have found it especially important that the linkage joints be in good shape and well lubricated. I had sent my shock in for service a year ago because I couldn't get the rear suspension to work well. The mechanic serviced the shock but told me everything looked good. It didn't help, and the mechanic told me to check out my linkage. I did and found everything O.K., but did not check the swingarm bearings. The rear suspension still didn't work well so I finally took it all apart again and found that the swingarm bearings were rusting. There was no play, yet, and the motion felt smooth, but that was were the problem was.
I guess what happens is that in that transitional part of the movement when there is no load up or down if there is any stiction or play it really screws with the rest of the shock action. For example, when that bearing at the bottom of the shock gets stiff and has play in it, the shock action becomes very harsh and uncomfortable over repetitive small bumps at speed.
Oh, and my weight is 175, stock spring in the shock.
Overall, I found it took patience and time. I also feel another round of "tuning" coming up.
I understand what you are trying to do, I did the same just to see if I was nuts or close. The bike handled like crap at one time.
Shock has been revlaved by a fella on this site, I'm not sure if I'm allowed to say who. Leave it at J#s*n, I believe his name was.
KX front end
I'm running 6 clicks out on compression, 11 clicks out on rebound and it all works pretty well.
I set the race sag to about 3-1/2" and then "field adjusted" it until I got it turning well. I picked about a one mile loop of single track with plenty of roots and turns and some big hits and changing soil types. Over the course of a FEW WEEKS I played with clickers front and back, fork height in the triple clamps, tire pressure, etc.
I have found it especially important that the linkage joints be in good shape and well lubricated. I had sent my shock in for service a year ago because I couldn't get the rear suspension to work well. The mechanic serviced the shock but told me everything looked good. It didn't help, and the mechanic told me to check out my linkage. I did and found everything O.K., but did not check the swingarm bearings. The rear suspension still didn't work well so I finally took it all apart again and found that the swingarm bearings were rusting. There was no play, yet, and the motion felt smooth, but that was were the problem was.
I guess what happens is that in that transitional part of the movement when there is no load up or down if there is any stiction or play it really screws with the rest of the shock action. For example, when that bearing at the bottom of the shock gets stiff and has play in it, the shock action becomes very harsh and uncomfortable over repetitive small bumps at speed.
Oh, and my weight is 175, stock spring in the shock.
Overall, I found it took patience and time. I also feel another round of "tuning" coming up.
'08 KTM200xc
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
- canyncarvr
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RE: 'I also feel another round of "tuning" coming up.'
If you sit down, have a cool one, and gather your wits about you...that feeling may pass without incident.
Good luck!!
If you sit down, have a cool one, and gather your wits about you...that feeling may pass without incident.
Good luck!!
Consider the source
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- Ondatrail
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- canyncarvr
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Re: ''I am quicker on an XR250L....'
I would say, 'Keep in mind who's talking.'...but you may not know who's talking. (KayDee I mean) .......
Ondatrail wrote:
That's odd
I would say, 'Keep in mind who's talking.'...but you may not know who's talking. (KayDee I mean) .......
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
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- 2001kdx
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I'm 220 with gear, I've got a bone stock shock (never been serviced, stock everything) I've got a little over 4 inches of sag, both compression and rebound clickers 4 clicks from full clockwise, and It feels great to me.
"the front and rear go seperate ways when trying to go straight through mud"
I always consider this type of thing (it's happened to me before) to my fault. That, IMO, is rider error.
Hey KayDee maybe kangaroos just weren't meant to ride two-strokes
You're shock must be in horrible condition if you're having that many problems.
"the front and rear go seperate ways when trying to go straight through mud"
I always consider this type of thing (it's happened to me before) to my fault. That, IMO, is rider error.
Hey KayDee maybe kangaroos just weren't meant to ride two-strokes
You're shock must be in horrible condition if you're having that many problems.
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This might help..
http://www.teamgreennews.ca/pdf/RS03-101e.pdf[url]
http://www.teamgreennews.ca/pdf/RS03-101e.pdf[url]
2000 KDX 200 97 KX 125 Front End
1996 CR 250
03 RM 65 2000 YZ 80
1996 CR 250
03 RM 65 2000 YZ 80
- KDXer
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Thanks Brad, I will start with gettting the shock serviced and revalved, then go from there. I have dramatically improved things by going R=3 C=5 on forks and R=10 C=10 on the shock but an still not 100% happy (almost though). My tuner Terry @ http://www.shocktreatment.com.au is very well known and has a 'fix it till you're happy' guarantee and an extensive range of test tracks. He is by far IMHO the best in Australia and luckily he happens to be local.canyncarvr wrote:Sir:
If your tuner is local (and willing) him watching you ride over such bumps will tell him in a minute or two how to change what.
Thanks Karl, all my bearings are brand new.KarlP wrote:I have found it especially important that the linkage joints be in good shape and well lubricated.
It was definately suspension related2001kdx wrote:"the front and rear go seperate ways when trying to go straight through mud"
THIS time it actually wasn't.2001kdx wrote:I always consider this type of thing (it's happened to me before) to my fault. That, IMO, is rider error.
Now stop that silly talk, obviously my little Kangaroo paws can't pick up a heavy pig of a 4-stroke after dropping it.2001kdx wrote:Hey KayDee maybe kangaroos just weren't meant to ride two-strokes
It was actually caused by me attempting to make it ride better but in fact I made it dangerously worse. Thats not saying my shock isn't in horrible condition, that part I don't know so I will start there on my search for a nicer ride.2001kdx wrote:You're shock must be in horrible condition if you're having that many problems.
Thank you also for the link Saddletramp.
"I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather, not screaming in terror like the passengers in his car."