KDXRIDER.NET

1" longer shock = a fair amount more of swingarm/rear wheel travel.

Yes I did it. I used a 1997 KX 250 shock with the stock #190 spring. I took it out because it started to leak oil. It adds a lot more than just 30mm of travel. I had to tippy toe to hold it up and the side stand became almost useless and there was JUST enough room for the spring to sit in the swingarm. I mean about an 1/8 inch or so. I use a 19 inch wheel with a 100/90 CS knobby on it so that adds evem more ground clearance. It will shorten your wheel base because of the extra length. So it is a little bit more squirrely In the loamy sand.
In order to mount it hook the bottom in first and you will need ( well I did )
A prybar to collapse it about a quarter inch to get the top to line up and get the bolt in. I should have pics in my gallery if you want to see it. I plan to rebuild it over the summer and reinstall it.


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You can always have a shock shortened internally (I recommend a pro for doing this mod) if it will physically fit the KDX chassis. Having said that, I still don't really see the point. Seems more trouble than it is worth IMO. The KDX shock works great if kept in good shape and valved for your riding.

I tried the stock unit last night after the oil change and my personal revalve, and it is definitely better. FAR less harsh on the square edge stuff. I need to work with the spring setting and the clickers and dial it in.

What I did for the revalve was take three of the eight big shims in the primary stack and move them up to the bottom of the secondary stack. That was it. I don't know if the oil made more difference or the shims did. The nitrogen fill cost 14.99.

I am also trying to figure out my springs. I have a race tech 5.2, and got 110/25 sag. I also have a spring that is supposed to be a TI 5.5, but I got 105/20 out of it last night. It is at least a pound lighter than the race tech spring, but I don't understand why the bike sag doesn't come around to where it should be.

FYI - this is the stock shim stack, in order of disassembly.



All I did was take 3 of the large washers in the compression stack (below the valve, in the middle of the pic) and move them to the bottom of the second stage, which would be on the left side of the bottom row. The idea was to soften the initial compression damping, and make a softer transfer to the second stage. As for the spring rate, maybe 5.5 is too stiff? I bottom the my 5.2. I cant figure out why I can't get the bike sag to get into the 35-40 mm range called for by Kawasaki.

Anyway, it is far better , but it think I can get a little more. I need to find some g-outs, none around the house...

After switching to the WR for the last race, I realized I need to work on the overall setup on the KDX. The front rides a little too high, and maybe that makes the shock feel worse than it is. I also need a taller seat and maybe some bar risers or a taller bar, as the rider compartment is just too small and my legs often cramp up. The WR with tall seat and +1 bar risers feels great and is fast in a straight line or on a climb, but is much harder to corner with. The WR also handles whooped out ground better. The WR shock definitely feels better, but I don't know if it IS better, or if my setup is too screwed up. I wouldn't call it plush, but it minimizes the sharp hits.

Took the old girl out to a race this weekend. Talked to a suspension guy and he suggested going with a lighter rate spring in the DRZ forks. He also doesn't like TI springs, as he feels they are not progressive like a steel spring.

And on to the race - The track was tight woods and slippery clay with rocks and roots and log crossings, and the KDX walked right over where other bikes were spinning and digging holes. The bike worked VERY well. I added a couple click of shock rebound mid-race, and it was even better. I agree with getting lighter springs in the forks to get a little more front tire bite as it felt skittery. I could have used just a tiny bit more power, as I did have to shift a lot.

It was a fun, KDX style race. The fresh oil in the shock worked wonders.

What I really need now is to roll back the clock 20 years and lose a bunch of weight.

Cool. Thanks for the report.

Fresh shock oil does wonders compared to the old stuff.