Setting Shock Action
Posted: 04:48 pm Jul 26 2005
Race sag:
This is the most important of the suspension settings. After you have spent some time and gotten the other circuits dialed in, you can try some different sag measurements to create a distinct feel and weight bias. As a general rule you should use about one third of your available travel as sag.
Free sag:
This measurement is taken to determine if you have the proper spring rate for your weight. Observe the characteristics of the motorcycle under its own weight. If the bike tops out or has less than 3/4 of an inch of sag then the spring is too soft! If the bike sags drastically under it's own weight, then it has too stiff a spring rate.
Now that you have got your spring set, you can get to the fun part: Riding your bike!
Setting the rebound:
1.) Find a relatively fast trail with braking bumps, rocks and roots leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce (Turn clicker out) the rebound damping until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Finally, increase (Turn clicker in) the rebound damping until the sensation goes away.
2.) Find a log or ledge that tends to bounce the motorcycle after hitting it. If the rear end bounces up uncontrollably, add rebound. (Turn clicker in)
3.) Find some large whoops. The motorcycle should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheel extending to the ground before the next impact. If it does not perform as described, as above, it is packing and the rebound dampening should be reduced! (Turn clicker out) (Please note the guide for sand set-up, as these rules don't apply for sand.)
4.) Find a corner with acceleration bumps, rocks, and roots on the exit. The rear of the motorcycle should follow the ground. If the rear end "breaks up", reduce the rebound. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the compression two clicks.) (Turn clicker out)
Setting the compression:
1.) Find some rough sections, a large jump and a couple of "G-Outs". The shock should bottom on the roughest section but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to fight bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid going to far as the suspension's ability to react to small variations of surface and rocks will be sacrificed in the trade. Remember the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so even a large change in setting may only effect bottoming resistance slightly. Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming load obstacle on the trail. If you don't you're not getting maximum plushness from your suspension. Run your suspension as soft as you can get away with but remember that if the trail has sand sections or lots of g-loads this will work against you.
This information was taken from:
http://www.mx-tech.com/tuning_offroad.asp
This is the most important of the suspension settings. After you have spent some time and gotten the other circuits dialed in, you can try some different sag measurements to create a distinct feel and weight bias. As a general rule you should use about one third of your available travel as sag.
Free sag:
This measurement is taken to determine if you have the proper spring rate for your weight. Observe the characteristics of the motorcycle under its own weight. If the bike tops out or has less than 3/4 of an inch of sag then the spring is too soft! If the bike sags drastically under it's own weight, then it has too stiff a spring rate.
Now that you have got your spring set, you can get to the fun part: Riding your bike!
Setting the rebound:
1.) Find a relatively fast trail with braking bumps, rocks and roots leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce (Turn clicker out) the rebound damping until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Finally, increase (Turn clicker in) the rebound damping until the sensation goes away.
2.) Find a log or ledge that tends to bounce the motorcycle after hitting it. If the rear end bounces up uncontrollably, add rebound. (Turn clicker in)
3.) Find some large whoops. The motorcycle should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheel extending to the ground before the next impact. If it does not perform as described, as above, it is packing and the rebound dampening should be reduced! (Turn clicker out) (Please note the guide for sand set-up, as these rules don't apply for sand.)
4.) Find a corner with acceleration bumps, rocks, and roots on the exit. The rear of the motorcycle should follow the ground. If the rear end "breaks up", reduce the rebound. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the compression two clicks.) (Turn clicker out)
Setting the compression:
1.) Find some rough sections, a large jump and a couple of "G-Outs". The shock should bottom on the roughest section but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to fight bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid going to far as the suspension's ability to react to small variations of surface and rocks will be sacrificed in the trade. Remember the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so even a large change in setting may only effect bottoming resistance slightly. Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming load obstacle on the trail. If you don't you're not getting maximum plushness from your suspension. Run your suspension as soft as you can get away with but remember that if the trail has sand sections or lots of g-loads this will work against you.
This information was taken from:
http://www.mx-tech.com/tuning_offroad.asp